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pawelx
Mar 29, 2010, 6:05 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2007
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I am in the US for a few months, based in NYC, with generally only weekends available for climbing. I would like to do some good multi-pitch trad climbs in the 5.5-5.8 range. I checked out the Gunks already last weekend, and the climbing there is great – will definitely be returning many times throughout this spring. But I would also like to try something a bit longer. So far I have read about the Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire, and routes there are supposed to be up to 10 pitches / 1000 feet of climbing. Are there any other destinations that I should look into?
5-6 hours of driving from NYC is probably the most that I can put up with…
Thanks
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olderic
Mar 29, 2010, 6:36 PM
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Cannon is marginally closer - I think you'd be hardpressed going from NYC-> North Conway in 6 hours - unless you do it in the dead of night (no traffic). I also think that finding a 10 pitch route on Whitehorse would be a stretch - could be done if you belay every possible inch of Standard I suppose. On the other hand there is more moderate climbing at Whitehorse. the riock quality is better and you have Cathedral right next store.
But the obvious place for you is Wallface in the Daks.
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pawelx
Mar 30, 2010, 1:35 PM
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Wallface looks great. Are there any long routes there in 5.5-5.7 range though? The easiest I saw are around 5.8, and if the grading is as stiff as what I have seen in the Gunks, 5.8 on trad gear might be a little too hard to lead for me.
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cush
Mar 31, 2010, 2:31 PM
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even the 5.8s on wall face aren't too terribly long. if you want easier multi pitch stuff check out some of the other stuff in the dacks. there are plenty of 3-5 pitch moderates around poko moonshine and keene valley.
edit: plus, if you're down for something a little bit more alpine rock-ish you could try the slide on the north(i think) face of mount colden. it's about 1500 feet long. a lot of scrambly stuff but quite a few sections of solid 5.5-5.6 climbing.
(This post was edited by cush on Mar 31, 2010, 2:33 PM)
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chugach001
Apr 7, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
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I love Roger's Rock. Stellar location with plenty of mid-level routes. Keene Valley sounds like the best fit for your needs.
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