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darkgift06
Apr 15, 2010, 7:29 PM
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the only thing I see that I might change.. (change not needed) is to tie both strands together in an 8 about 5" or so above the master point.
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nsutherl
Apr 16, 2010, 4:31 PM
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jt512 wrote: On the other hand, this is why this thread needs to stay open. Jay
Haha I see your point.
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robx
Feb 23, 2011, 4:11 AM
Post #28 of 35
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I know I'm bumping an old thread and I apologize but I have a noob question:
in reading this, I'm confused about whether the method posted at the beginning of this thread, or whether sliding x is the more common anchor.
I've used both (though the first is just essentially two qd's with locking biners, right?), and prefer sliding x because I'm more experienced with setting and cleaning it, but if the 2 qd method is safer (as a few suggested) I'd rather just do that.
also, with sliding x I recently saw someone using only one (non-locking) biner whereas when it was taught to me I used two opposite and opposing locking biners. maybe that's overkill, but I learned from an ancient guy that was keen on safety.
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cracklover
Feb 23, 2011, 4:05 PM
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robx wrote: I know I'm bumping an old thread and I apologize but I have a noob question: in reading this, I'm confused about whether the method posted at the beginning of this thread, or whether sliding x is the more common anchor.
Which one is more common is not really important. The two are equivalent in the sense that both are adequate in most situations. However there are situation in which one or the other is much better.
What is the application you're asking about?
In reply to: also, with sliding x I recently saw someone using only one (non-locking) biner whereas when it was taught to me I used two opposite and opposing locking biners. maybe that's overkill, but I learned from an ancient guy that was keen on safety.
Depends. If it's a toprope anchor and the rope is going through a single biner, that's not adequate. If the single biner is on one of the two connection points to the gear - that's fine. If the single biner has the rope going through it, but it's a piece of running protection rather than a toprope anchor, that's fine.
GO
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qwert
Feb 23, 2011, 6:59 PM
Post #30 of 35
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What craclover said ...
But other than that:
I am not trying to be an ass, but why does someone that is not even understanding the basic principles of climbing/anchoring search/find a thread that says "new top rope anchor idea"?
Generally, as a beginner you should be very very very very carefull of new ideas of your own or of "some random internet dude".
Please see this very informative thread on the subject:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...m_view=recent_posts;
!
qwert
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robx
Feb 24, 2011, 2:22 AM
Post #31 of 35
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qwert wrote: What craclover said ... But other than that: I am not trying to be an ass, but why does someone that is not even understanding the basic principles of climbing/anchoring search/find a thread that says "new top rope anchor idea"? Generally, as a beginner you should be very very very very carefull of new ideas of your own or of "some random internet dude". Please see this very informative thread on the subject: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...m_view=recent_posts; ! qwert
I found this thread by just searching sliding x because I was trying to find info on the integrity of the anchor. more specifically, I was worried about the lack of redundancies in the anchor.
this thread came up and I thought it was worth posting in.
I certainly wasn't looking for some "new" anchor system, I was just looking for info on the few that I already use.
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chilli
Feb 24, 2011, 3:16 AM
Post #32 of 35
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robx wrote: qwert wrote: ...I am not trying to be an ass, but why does someone that is not even understanding the basic principles of climbing/anchoring search/find a thread that says "new top rope anchor idea"?... I found this thread by just searching sliding x because I was trying to find info on the integrity of the anchor...
i, for one, commend you on digging up an old thread. there are far too many new threads started up asking the same old questions. and then i'd be the asshole telling you to do a search. at least this shows you took some initiative and searched. so, thanks.
as far as sliding-x i don't like it for TR, especially bad w/o limiter knots.
ideally i like quads, but i always have a cordalette with me anyway, so it's easy. if you're more into TR and have webbing/slings, then a sliding-x works, but i like the 1st set-up (basically long draws) more for true redundancy.
i have mixed feelings about opposing lockers. i used to do it a lot, but then i had a few unscrew and even one hold another open (and yes, i did tighten them and switched biners). so i've actually gone back to the old fashioned opposed ovals if i'm actually out on a true slingshot-TR day (which doesn't happen that much these days).
another option that i've found more comforting when opposing lockers is by using offset D's instead of normal ones because it keeps the screwlocks from rubbing on the other spine
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robx
Feb 24, 2011, 3:49 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Thanks for the info.
I have used the 2 quickdraw method on a lot of sport routes, but like having the sliding x for toprope.
I like your idea about opposite and opposing. I know it's nothing knew, but I'll probably do it from now on.
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jt512
Feb 24, 2011, 5:04 AM
Post #34 of 35
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robx wrote: Thanks for the info. I have used the 2 quickdraw method on a lot of sport routes, but like having the sliding x for toprope.
Why? What advantages do you see to a sliding-x over two quickdraws? Assuming the anchor consists of two bolts placed so that the force on them will be shared, then what argument against a simple 2-quickdraw argument is there? You don't even need any locking biners; you only need to oppose the rope-end gates.
Jay
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billcoe_
Feb 24, 2011, 5:30 PM
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olderic wrote: I like to use the American Death Triangle with frayed webbing and worn rings. Stood the test of time - ya know?
Me too, I think it's good to stick with what ya know.
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