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freeheeler1690
Apr 26, 2010, 6:10 PM
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My wife and I are looking to go to Yosemite for a 3 day trip in two weeks time. We are both Lead certified from an indoor gym but have never set up anchors on our own. We are looking for 1 pitch routes that are already bolted so we just need to clip in to get some outdoor practice. Does anyone know of any good areas that are already bolted that we can practice on. We have all our own gear and rope. Thank you for any help Martin
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redlude97
Apr 26, 2010, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Do you know how to clean a route and rethread through the anchors? There likely aren't any routes where you just get to the top, clip in and lower.
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angry
Apr 26, 2010, 6:16 PM
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You should go bouldering in the valley. You really don't have the skillset to do much there.
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marc801
Apr 26, 2010, 6:27 PM
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angry wrote: You should go bouldering in the valley. You really don't have the skillset to do much there. Or hire a guide.
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marc801
Apr 26, 2010, 6:37 PM
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freeheeler1690 wrote: My wife and I are looking to go to Yosemite for a 3 day trip in two weeks time. We are both Lead certified from an indoor gym but have never set up anchors on our own. We are looking for 1 pitch routes that are already bolted so we just need to clip in to get some outdoor practice. Does anyone know of any good areas that are already bolted that we can practice on. We have all our own gear and rope. Thank you for any help Martin There are extremely few sport routes in the Valley, and none below 5.12 or so. There are routes that do have bolted anchors, but almost all are the friction routes on GPA and the Royal Arches Apron or the spicy face routes on Middle Cathedral. No sane person would consider those sport routes merely due to the presence of protection bolts. There are a number of trad routes that have trees for some of the anchors, but from the wording of your post, I'd guess that you don't have the prerequisite knowledge to do these without killing yourselves.
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dugl33
Apr 26, 2010, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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Depending on how hard you climb, there aren't a whole lot of options. You have a few options at Knob Hill, a climb or two at Five and Dime, a few climbs at Pat and Jack Pinnacle, a few slab climbs at the arches area, a few climbs at Schultzs Ridge and a few at lower cathedral. If you have the stomach for run out slab climbs there is plenty to do, but do you even have two ropes for long rappels? If you are not good at slabs or climbing at least 5.10, I can count your options for suitable bolted face climbs on one hand. Yosemite Valley in general requires crack climbing skills, gear and the ability to use it. You can partner up with someone with these skills at camp 4 (offerings of beer or food may help) or take some classes with the Yosemite Guides. A few classes may be money well spent. http://www.yosemitepark.com/...ClimbingLessons.aspx
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Arockstar
Apr 26, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2008
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Pat and Jacks. There are a number of bolted routes with two in the 5.8/5.9 grade at the far end and a nice 5.10b(bone head or something like that). Like others have said, if you don't know how to clean, get someone to teach you first.
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