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elevation
Apr 28, 2010, 2:18 AM
Post #2 of 13
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Registered: Apr 28, 2010
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I only recently returned to Santee after a long absence to find the rock missing under the cracks. What a bunch of bullshit. I'm not trying to advance the debate further but what's next? moving the death blade under Dead Animal Traverse? I've even taken a bad fall on that rock near bullet hole but I would never think to move it. I guess if the local ethic is changing to make the area more "user-friendly" then the majority has it.
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maxter
Apr 28, 2010, 4:31 PM
Post #3 of 13
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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I almost rolled that rock with a 2x4 about ten years ago. My brother used to climb at Santee in the 1970's. On a visit he noticed the cheatstone at the Powell face was gone. At the Big Nothing I chopped out the brush and found a two good climbs that had not been climbed in years.
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trenchdigger
Apr 28, 2010, 5:25 PM
Post #4 of 13
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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I had always wondered how Powell Face got a 10+ grade, then someone told me about the cheat stone! Oh well... it goes without it.
No additional modification since this last event has occurred that I'm aware of. While I wouldn't consider this a "felony" ethics violation, it's worth noting that stuff like this is NOT the accepted practice and only encourages more modification.
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maxter
Apr 28, 2010, 11:38 PM
Post #5 of 13
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 71
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Perhaps the worst practice at Santee is the incessant hold polishing by climbers that will not clean their shoes. On Hot Springs Mtn there is a crag near the summit. Long hike. Maybe the Indian owners would give an OK to drive to the crag. You should be able to Google Earth and image.
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jcrew
Apr 30, 2010, 3:08 PM
Post #6 of 13
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Registered: May 11, 2006
Posts: 673
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i've never climbed @ santee....
a friend of mine fell off a boulder, onto a boulder, shattered his ankle and ended ALL sports for him, for life. .......move the rock!!
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pyrosis
Apr 30, 2010, 5:49 PM
Post #7 of 13
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 150
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jcrew wrote: i've never climbed @ santee.... a friend of mine fell off a boulder, onto a boulder, shattered his ankle and ended ALL sports for him, for life. .......move the rock!!
Years ago, a girlfriend of mine fell off one of the cracks in question, (the right crack). She did not touch the pillar in question, in fact she caught her foot on the tiny ledge about 1 foot off the ground. Doing so, she broke her tibia and fibula both midshaft, had surgery, long recovery, and ended up doing just fine.
The moral of the story? Climbing is dangerous. If you are not willing to accept the danger inherent in climbing a particular problem, you shouldn't climb it. In my opinion, that crack is still a dangerous problem even without the little pillar, only now the area has been forever altered.
Dumbing down climbing by removing elements of danger is not only missing the point for yourself, but taking away part of the challenge for those that come after you.
If you don't want to climb a problem with a bad landing, just choose a different problem. Or perhaps, use pads and spotters intelligently like most boulderers do.
Please.
-Tavis
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k.l.k
Apr 30, 2010, 6:28 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
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as a professional historian and former socal local i should have an opinion on this, or at least some sense of moral outrage.
but honestly, i've climbed at santee, and i'd be just as happy to see the whole place quarried.
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i_h8_choss
May 1, 2010, 12:39 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Sep 2, 2007
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k.l.k wrote: as a professional historian and former socal local i should have an opinion on this, or at least some sense of moral outrage. but honestly, i've climbed at santee, and i'd be just as happy to see the whole place quarried.
What a nice guy.
You don't climb much anymore...do you.?
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Ramithorn
Aug 6, 2010, 7:31 AM
Post #10 of 13
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Registered: Aug 6, 2010
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k.l.k has the right idea, there's absolutely nothing special about this boulder field in Santee. The major of the reason why it's so popular is because of the convenience to climbers too lazy to hike to ACTUAL climbing areas, i.e. El Cajon mountain. You're friggin rock climbers for goodness sake, laziness should not even be in your vocabulary! With a little more effort you could discover bouldering all around the county that makes Santee look like a meercat among lions (tried for 30 mins to think of a better reference, suggestions welcome). The point being, these boulders are mediocre at best! I say bring on the quarry, and throw in Mission Gorge while you're at it... just threw up in my mouth a little thinking about that wretched polished nightmare. Would someone mind helping me down from my soapbox?
(This post was edited by Ramithorn on Aug 6, 2010, 7:38 AM)
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curt
Aug 6, 2010, 7:51 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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i_h8_choss wrote: k.l.k wrote: as a professional historian and former socal local i should have an opinion on this, or at least some sense of moral outrage. but honestly, i've climbed at santee, and i'd be just as happy to see the whole place quarried. What a nice guy. You don't climb much anymore...do you.?
Actually, he does. Much, much harder than you, my friend.
Curt
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ranchipur
Aug 19, 2010, 5:00 PM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Nov 3, 2005
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..nothing special about the boulders at Santee?"
Ya, get off your soapbox.
That's where many a local learned to pull off thin edge runouts at JTree. (Or is there nothing special about JTree either?)
Lots of areas are popular because of convenience. So what?
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illusiondweller
Nov 20, 2010, 8:33 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 124
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Lol, quarried? Just bouldered again at Santee today after almost thirty years of doing so. Showed two young, strong climbers, (products of Woodson), Shockley's Lunge and it was heard, "Santee's for real! Those that say otherwise just don't know or just can't slab climb worth a crap!" I'd have to agree for tenous friction and pulling on dimes isn't as much of an art like it use to be. But that's okay for it frees up the area to those that appreciate what is really out there. Let me show you around and I'll guarantee that you'll leave with a smile on your face or your tail between your legs!
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