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cracklover
Jan 29, 2010, 6:12 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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granite_grrl wrote: mrtristan wrote: granite_grrl wrote: ryanb wrote: shimanilami wrote: I'm a bit disappointed. From what I can tell, they're nothing but copies of the HB/DMM brassies. I believe the angle of flare is actually one degree less then the HB's and I think they are made of BD's harder silicon/bronze material. How these differences play out in the field remains to be seen but, considering black diamonds micros are 15 bucks a pop I doubt the price difference will be much more then a buck or two. It doesn't sound like they have a real edge over the DMM offsets, though availability in stores might make the difference. I don't understand why people are disappointed that they're very similar to the HB/DMM Brass nuts!? Those are GREAT nuts! How do you improve on something so good? Making it cheaper sure would be one way... But why should we be excited if they aren't really different (price, shape, etc) than something already on the market?
cracklover wrote: The best thing about them is that I expect REI will probably carry them, so I can get some for "free" with my dividend this year. Yay! GO
GO
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granite_grrl
Jan 29, 2010, 8:19 PM
Post #27 of 36
(1801 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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cracklover wrote: granite_grrl wrote: mrtristan wrote: granite_grrl wrote: ryanb wrote: shimanilami wrote: I'm a bit disappointed. From what I can tell, they're nothing but copies of the HB/DMM brassies. I believe the angle of flare is actually one degree less then the HB's and I think they are made of BD's harder silicon/bronze material. How these differences play out in the field remains to be seen but, considering black diamonds micros are 15 bucks a pop I doubt the price difference will be much more then a buck or two. It doesn't sound like they have a real edge over the DMM offsets, though availability in stores might make the difference. I don't understand why people are disappointed that they're very similar to the HB/DMM Brass nuts!? Those are GREAT nuts! How do you improve on something so good? Making it cheaper sure would be one way... But why should we be excited if they aren't really different (price, shape, etc) than something already on the market? cracklover wrote: The best thing about them is that I expect REI will probably carry them, so I can get some for "free" with my dividend this year. Yay! GO GO
Not that it really matters, I bought myself a bunch of the DMM ones down at the Gunks last fall.
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rightarmbad
Jan 30, 2010, 8:11 AM
Post #28 of 36
(1778 views)
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Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 218
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I know a few older climbers that find the HB angles a little too much and file their own from various others.
Maybe BD have found a better shape?
I can think of a few placements when a slightly harder than HB brass would have been a benefit as well.
Sounds to me like they may have actually improved on the originals, dare I say innovation, as opposed to DMM just recreating the originals?
I already have a double set of the very original HB so I'm not knocking them, I love em, but will certainly consider looking at a set of these.
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mattm
Jan 30, 2010, 10:06 PM
Post #29 of 36
(1749 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
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Anyone know if the cable on the loop end has a "free running side"? The DMM swedge only captures one side so they won't kink nearly as much. If the BDs cable is a fixed lower loop, the DMM has the win still.
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Bolter
May 7, 2010, 6:17 PM
Post #31 of 36
(1569 views)
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Registered: Mar 21, 2009
Posts: 50
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Where are they made?? China???
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mattm
May 7, 2010, 6:37 PM
Post #32 of 36
(1551 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
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Bolter wrote: Where are they made?? China???
No idea - and just so this stays on topic:
BD OWNS and OPERATES their China facility. It's not outsourced, and they didn't reduce employees in SLC (they moved them to more complicated projects)
Have to see how they look - I'm a DMM guy for pro other than Camalots myself
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coldfinger
May 8, 2010, 4:39 AM
Post #33 of 36
(1465 views)
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Registered: Mar 4, 2006
Posts: 52
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johnwesely wrote: newriverE wrote: That's why the C3's and C4's cost ten dollars more per piece, plain and simple. I somehow doubt it is that simple.
Yeah it's a least $5 per chinalot for all the gear forum trolling.
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scuclimber
May 8, 2010, 6:45 AM
Post #34 of 36
(1438 views)
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007
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Just saw VTG's OR show blog post from January that says they'll be available in the fall. Bummer. I want to test the bigger ones in the next few months.
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Bolter
May 8, 2010, 8:40 AM
Post #35 of 36
(1427 views)
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Registered: Mar 21, 2009
Posts: 50
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So do chinese people work in this factory?
So do supplies they use come from other chinese companies?
Does the power this factory runs on come from china?
So what is the percentage of this factory AMERICAN?
Made in China!!
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vegastradguy
May 10, 2010, 5:27 AM
Post #36 of 36
(1364 views)
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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Bolter wrote: So do chinese people work in this factory? So do supplies they use come from other chinese companies? Does the power this factory runs on come from china? So what is the percentage of this factory AMERICAN? Made in China!!
well, unlike most factories in china that are chinese owned and manufacture goods on contract, BD's factory is AMERICAN owned and operated. it employs Chinese workers, of course, but management is (or was at least when the factory opened) from BD in SLC.
it is an ISO 9001 facility that builds to the same standards and specs that BD has always built to.
people need to get off the BD in China thing. its not that big of a deal. i cant think of a single American climbing company that manufactures all of its hardware stateside- most european companies outsource some or all of their hardware and rope manufacturing as well. Alot of our product comes from Asia these days- and its not just shoes.
all of that said, if i had to guess, i would say that the offsets will be made stateside for at least a year or two while they refine the product and manufacturing process.
(come to think of it, the only company i can think of offhand that manufactures all of its own hardware is DMM Wales- there might be another here or there, but all the other big ones outsource at least some of their hardware)
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