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hotgemini
May 7, 2010, 12:18 AM
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So I've got a bit of an issue. I currently can't find any commercially available, stainless steel, wiregate carabiner with a field-installable bar/roll-pin to make it captive. Faders used to make one, but since they were bought by fixe, its been dropped from their line. Raumer make a stainless wiregate with a bar to make it captive, but they weld the bar in place. Fixe only offer their draco Because most of the demand for captive bar carabiners is from industry, they tend to be screwgate carabiners (and more often that not, mild steel only). The issue arises where we've got lots of existing anchor stations (glued-in) and the original - manufactured in-situ - carabiners are approaching the point where they need to be removed due to wear. I'd rather not pull/chop the bolts, nor do I want to added a mallion(s) to the anchors to facilitate fitting of captive eye carabiners, nor do I particularly want to see the 'clip and lower' functionality lost. Now I'm pretty up to speed on whats out there gear wise, but I'm still hoping someone will now point out "surely you've overlooked the abcdefg-brand rstuv-carabiner?" Anyone got any leads?
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acorneau
May 7, 2010, 12:58 AM
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hotgemini wrote: So I've got a bit of an issue. I currently can't find any commercially available, stainless steel, wiregate carabiner with a field-installable bar/roll-pin to make it captive. Faders used to make one, but since they were bought by fixe, its been dropped from their line. Raumer make a stainless wiregate with a bar to make it captive, but they weld the bar in place. Fixe only offer their draco Because most of the demand for captive bar carabiners is from industry, they tend to be screwgate carabiners (and more often that not, mild steel only). The issue arises where we've got lots of existing anchor stations (glued-in) and the original - manufactured in-situ - carabiners are approaching the point where they need to be removed due to wear. I'd rather not pull/chop the bolts, nor do I want to added a mallion(s) to the anchors to facilitate fitting of captive eye carabiners, nor do I particularly want to see the 'clip and lower' functionality lost. Now I'm pretty up to speed on whats out there gear wise, but I'm still hoping someone will now point out "surely you've overlooked the abcdefg-brand rstuv-carabiner?" Anyone got any leads? Surely you've overlooked the... well, can't find any more. You just might have to change one or two of your criteria to get something that fits your needs
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vegastradguy
May 7, 2010, 2:43 AM
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CAMP's gym draw is steel- not sure if its stainless. not wiregate. but it is captive and field serviceable. http://www.camp-usa.com/...gym-safe-express.asp you may also contact the ASCA http://safeclimbing.org- they've been using quicklinks and mussy hooks with great success in lots of areas- they're graciously supplying red rocks with these for their sport crags- great clip and go functionality and with over an inch of steel, take a long time to wear through.
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hotgemini
May 7, 2010, 5:30 AM
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Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate the efforts to help. The camp carabiner is mild steel and a solid gate, we haven't had any success with stopping solid gate carabiners from filling up with dirt and jamming. Renob don't really manufacture anything, they merely assemble anchors together out of readily available stainless hardware. They do not offer a pin-captive stainless steel wiregate carabiner. The SMC captive eye clip is intended to hold webbing place on the carabiner (eg. to stop the carabiner rotating), essentially a metal version of Petzl's String. The main area I'm focussed on is located smack bang in the centre of the CBD of a reasonably sized city, so vandal/theft resistance is why I'm seeking the bar-captive design, not merely stopping rotating and whilst again, I do really appreciate the effort, it won't do what I'm seeking. Thus far at least, unfortunately it may be acorneau who is closest to the mark, but I'll keep looking before I start investigating other options (eg. modifying wichard #2337s to take a captive pin) So I don't waste peoples' time covering options I've already looked at, lets say I'm pretty comfortable that none of the products offered by: Black Diamond Petzl Wild Country DMM ISC Kong Faders Fixe Omega Pacific CAMP Mammut Singing Rock Raumer Stubai Wichard Metolius Rock Empire Trango Simond fit the bill. In fact I'll even be more dificult and say that I'd like the carabiner to be reasonably priced too (so not only am I seeking a non-existent product, I'm demanding a good deal :P ) Anyone got any leads? -Adam.
(This post was edited by hotgemini on May 7, 2010, 5:43 AM)
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norushnomore
May 7, 2010, 8:41 AM
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>> Raumer make a stainless wiregate with a bar to make it captive, but they weld the bar in place. ... nor do I want to added a mallion(s) to the anchors to facilitate fitting of captive eye carabiners << Why not? What's wrong with the stainless quicklink and a Raumer wiregate?
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hotgemini
May 7, 2010, 10:16 AM
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Don't want to add the length and extra components and additional visible impact if it can be avoided. And whilst the faders pin-captive stainless steel wiregate was on the market, it easily could be. In lots of cases adding a mallion will then put the carabiner at 90 degrees to where it needs to be to work well on the anchor (eg. Fixe #044). It's got me a bit stumped that there isn't a single carabiner of this type on the market. I regularly assess the sustainability of any actions in take, I like to ensure that it is possible to maintain the hardware we install to the same level as it was originally installed. But with faders dropping that product, anyone who has ever installed a 'clip and lower' anchor station with glue-in hardware is now unable to retain the clip and lower functionality when the original carabiners wear out. If there's nothing on the market, I see three probably ways forward; 1) Try to encourage a manufacturer to add such a product to their line. 2) Modify an existing product (such as the aforementioned wichard carbine hook) to include a captive eye, but to do this in good faith would oblige several destructive tests, careful quality control and would attract liability that I really don't want. 3) Have the carabiner manufactured, which just builds on the issues touched on above.
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I_do
May 7, 2010, 10:38 AM
Post #9 of 54
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hotgemini wrote: Don't want to add the length and extra components and additional visible impact if it can be avoided. And whilst the faders pin-captive stainless steel wiregate was on the market, it easily could be. In lots of cases adding a mallion will then put the carabiner at 90 degrees to where it needs to be to work well on the anchor (eg. Fixe #044). It's got me a bit stumped that there isn't a single carabiner of this type on the market. I regularly assess the sustainability of any actions in take, I like to ensure that it is possible to maintain the hardware we install to the same level as it was originally installed. But with faders dropping that product, anyone who has ever installed a 'clip and lower' anchor station with glue-in hardware is now unable to retain the clip and lower functionality when the original carabiners wear out. If there's nothing on the market, I see three probably ways forward; 1) Try to encourage a manufacturer to add such a product to their line. 2) Modify an existing product (such as the aforementioned wichard carbine hook) to include a captive eye, but to do this in good faith would oblige several destructive tests, careful quality control and would attract liability that I really don't want. 3) Have the carabiner manufactured, which just builds on the issues touched on above. He dude, good to read you're doing the good work. I have a suggestion no-one made, but somehow I feel like you've probably already tried, but, runonsentence: have you tried e-mailing Faders and asking them if they have any lying around, or wether you could still get them? A couple of friends of mine have had really good experiences with their customer service, so you might just get lucky. They'll at least give you a quick response and might be able to point you in the right direction. Cheers In case none of this works out it's a good thing KP is a total piece of choss not worth climbing ;o).
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bill413
May 7, 2010, 1:07 PM
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Just a thought: Take a biner that otherwise fits your needs, but without the captive pin. Mount it & epoxy a pin in place. The epoxy should have no effect on the biner strength/functionality, but would make theft difficult.
(This post was edited by bill413 on May 7, 2010, 1:08 PM)
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billcoe_
May 7, 2010, 1:48 PM
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Above all else, don't pull the anchor and reinstall IMO, better to cut off the biner and put in a quick link, which are readily available in stainless. Wish I had a lead for you for what you want, good luck!
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scottek67
May 7, 2010, 2:35 PM
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at 20 bucks a pop you want to squish 'em in a vice?
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scottek67
May 7, 2010, 2:49 PM
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acorneau wrote: scottek67 wrote: at 20 bucks a pop you want to squish 'em in a vice? Just bend the eye closed enough for them to be theft proof/resistant. won't that alter the action on the gate or reduce the structural integrity? also won't dragging a vice 30m up a wall be a huge pain?
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I_do
May 7, 2010, 4:21 PM
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scottek67 wrote: acorneau wrote: scottek67 wrote: at 20 bucks a pop you want to squish 'em in a vice? Just bend the eye closed enough for them to be theft proof/resistant. won't that alter the action on the gate or reduce the structural integrity? also won't dragging a vice 30m up a wall be a huge pain? Not if the top of the wall is a parking lot
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sp00ki
May 7, 2010, 4:56 PM
Post #18 of 54
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More than anything else, i'm curious as to either 1) what the industry's (modern) answer to what you're looking for is (and why it won't work for you), or 2) why the demand for what you want is so low that not a single shop out there is still making it.
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Bolter
May 7, 2010, 6:24 PM
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Fixe is the way to go if you have $$$$$$. The best bolting goods around.
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adatesman
May 8, 2010, 2:26 PM
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JimTitt
May 8, 2010, 4:44 PM
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What, you mean like this little buddy we developed? You clip ther rope in twice so even if you climb above and fall with the rope across the gate it doesnŽt unclip completely. Hard to make and hopelessly uneconomic but it was fun trying to make it work! [inline Double Clip Karabiner.jpg] IŽd do what others do with pigtails and the like;- fit a stainless U cable clamp and give the threads a whack with a hammer.
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Double Clip Karabiner.jpg
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styndall
May 8, 2010, 5:08 PM
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JimTitt wrote: What, you mean like this little buddy we developed? You clip ther rope in twice so even if you climb above and fall with the rope across the gate it doesnŽt unclip completely. Hard to make and hopelessly uneconomic but it was fun trying to make it work! [inline Double Clip Karabiner.jpg] IŽd do what others do with pigtails and the like;- fit a stainless U cable clamp and give the threads a whack with a hammer. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but that thing looks like it'd cause monster rope drag.
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scottek67
May 8, 2010, 5:28 PM
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styndall wrote: JimTitt wrote: What, you mean like this little buddy we developed? You clip ther rope in twice so even if you climb above and fall with the rope across the gate it doesnŽt unclip completely. Hard to make and hopelessly uneconomic but it was fun trying to make it work! [inline Double Clip Karabiner.jpg] IŽd do what others do with pigtails and the like;- fit a stainless U cable clamp and give the threads a whack with a hammer. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but that thing looks like it'd cause monster rope drag. look again... nothing different than the rope running through two biners. very cool Jim.
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