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agdavis
May 9, 2010, 10:26 PM
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Yes, I did a search.
I understand that downturned shoes are for "steep, hard routes," but can someone explain to me why? I'm assuming it has something to do with biomechanics...
Thanks.
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edge
May 9, 2010, 11:10 PM
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Because court jesters and elves hold exclusive rights to upturned toes.
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agdavis
May 9, 2010, 11:30 PM
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edge wrote: Because court jesters and elves hold exclusive rights to upturned toes.
Damn, I knew that must be the reason but I was too shy to say it...
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styndall
May 9, 2010, 11:33 PM
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agdavis wrote: Yes, I did a search. I understand that downturned shoes are for "steep, hard routes," but can someone explain to me why? I'm assuming it has something to do with biomechanics... Thanks.
Downturned shoes give your feet a sort of hooked shape allowing more downward pressure for the same foot angle as a flat shoe.
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angry
May 9, 2010, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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As a guy who primarily climbed vertical routes and cracks, I didn't get it either.
The best success I had with them was with a pair of stretched and nearly blown Talons in the Black Canyon.
Then I moved to Bermuda and started climbing really steep routes. Knee bars everywhere, really digging into the pockets through the roofs, etc. Thing is, I can't exactly say what it it that helps. Yes, they're more precise, yes, they geometrically align on steep stuff better, they don't seem to fall off on heel hooks.
I don't know THE reason, I do know from experience though, that they are revolutionary for steep sport.
I also know from experience that anything other than a mild downturn sucks on vertical routes, double sucks on slabs.
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edge
May 9, 2010, 11:38 PM
Post #6 of 14
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Really, they help concentrate power over the big toe and lend themselves to hooking with the toe to keep your feet on overhanging or very steep routes.
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johnwesely
May 10, 2010, 12:39 AM
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The steep part is crucial. I don't know why, but I see people wearing Solutions on slab. I kid you not. For steep caves though, down turned shoes rule.
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phillygoat
May 10, 2010, 1:54 AM
Post #8 of 14
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It's a fat-guy thing. I need down-turned shoes on vertical terrain because it gives me a chance for the shoe to buckle under pressure a bit without blowing off the hold.
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pdpcardsfan
May 10, 2010, 3:09 AM
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so do the dutch
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jh_angel
May 10, 2010, 4:58 AM
Post #10 of 14
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johnwesely wrote: The steep part is crucial. I don't know why, but I see people wearing Solutions on slab. I kid you not. For steep caves though, down turned shoes rule.
That would be because unlike other down turned shoes, the solutions perform quite well on slab and it doesn't kill your feet to do so. Granted I wouldn't recommend them as your regular slab shoes, but I pick them over my flatter shoes every now and then.
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I_do
May 10, 2010, 7:27 AM
Post #11 of 14
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pdpcardsfan wrote: so do the dutch
We help hooking? I suggest you try climbing with 200lbs shoes!
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hafilax
May 10, 2010, 4:05 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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agdavis wrote: Yes, I did a search. I understand that downturned shoes are for "steep, hard routes," but can someone explain to me why? I'm assuming it has something to do with biomechanics... Thanks.
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wmfork
May 10, 2010, 4:44 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Jan 4, 2006
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angry wrote: I also know from experience that anything other than a mild downturn sucks on vertical routes, double sucks on slabs. |
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Bag11s
May 11, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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Two reasons- precision and gathering in the holds. On steep routes you can reach out in any direction, look right at the hold, place the forward edge of the shoe meticulously on the hold, grab it with the toe, get on it, and reel it in. They allow your feet to function with pretty much the same level of accuracy as your hands. They work great for all technical climbing that's vertical to overhanging.
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