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climboard
Jun 11, 2010, 1:38 AM
Post #26 of 47
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Thanks for the pics. From what I can tell the axle appears straight but like others have said it appears to have rotated. I had this happen to a .75 Camalot and was able to rotate it back to normal, but it didn't look as tweaked as yours. Definitely send it to BD for an evaluation. They'll either tweak it back into place for you or possibly replace it. I'd say that is worth it for the cost of postage.
(This post was edited by climboard on Jun 11, 2010, 2:40 PM)
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patto
Jun 11, 2010, 1:40 AM
Post #27 of 47
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climbingcrook wrote: It was a hard short fall in a strange placement. I don't see it as a manufacturing issue but maybe a design issue. I am sure they are aware of it if they see it as a flaw in the design. Would it be worth the effort to send it back?
wmfork wrote: No, but it is a design issue. The smaller C4s (0.5/0.75 and smaller) all have this weakness. Both of my 0.5s have slightly bent lobes/axles. How is it a design issue!!!? People seem to be suggesting there are issues with the design yet they don't say what!? With those poor photos im not even clear what is going on. The axles don't look very bent to me. Though one of the lobe is sitting lopsided.
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bill413
Jun 11, 2010, 12:48 PM
Post #28 of 47
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extreme_actuary wrote: I think it's a placement issue, design issue, and manufacturing issue: 1. Awesome placement - sounds like you found a solid placement where few options existed, especially while low on gear 2. Great Design - Didn't need a "Gunks Tie-Off." (Maybe it's time to upgrade from my trusty Forged Friends) 3. Great Manufacturing - from the pictures, it looks like it held a tremendous amount of force Nobody died. 5 Stars for everyone! Agreed.
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adatesman
Jun 11, 2010, 2:31 PM
Post #29 of 47
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acorneau
Jun 11, 2010, 2:45 PM
Post #30 of 47
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adatesman wrote: On a loosely related note, I wonder how a tricam would have worked in that placement? IIRC he said it was in a horizontal and it looks like it was levered out in the fall, which makes me think a tricam placed with the sling on top may have handled the forces better. +1 I would think that a Tricam would have faired much better, if not perfectly fine. The offset nature of the crack (wider on one side) wouldn't matter to a Tricam's placement or holding power.
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bandycoot
Jun 11, 2010, 4:08 PM
Post #31 of 47
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I fell on a brand new 0.5 C4 and had very similar results when they first came out. The fall was a swinging one, about 5'. Nothing serious, but the irregularites in the crack and the rotation of the cam's head caused an axle to bend and one (maybe two? It was years ago) of the lobes was locked in the closed position. It held my fall, and I finished the route by running it out over the same piece. What I learned wasn't that BD had a design flaw. I learned that to stay safe it is absolutely critical that you inspect gear you fell on before heading back up, and that even well designed gear can unfortunately be damaged in real world applications. Josh
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bill413
Jun 11, 2010, 4:31 PM
Post #32 of 47
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bandycoot wrote: I fell on a brand new 0.5 C4 and had very similar results when they first came out. The fall was a swinging one, about 5'. Nothing serious, but the irregularites in the crack and the rotation of the cam's head caused an axle to bend and one (maybe two? It was years ago) of the lobes was locked in the closed position. It held my fall, and I finished the route by running it out over the same piece. What I learned wasn't that BD had a design flaw. I learned that to stay safe it is absolutely critical that you inspect gear you fell on before heading back up, and that even well designed gear can unfortunately be damaged in real world applications. Josh +2 (Having had a piece rip while lowering on it after it held a couple of falls)
(This post was edited by bill413 on Jun 11, 2010, 4:32 PM)
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wmfork
Jun 12, 2010, 4:26 AM
Post #33 of 47
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patto wrote: wmfork wrote: No, but it is a design issue. The smaller C4s (0.5/0.75 and smaller) all have this weakness. Both of my 0.5s have slightly bent lobes/axles. How is it a design issue!!!? People seem to be suggesting there are issues with the design yet they don't say what!? It's a design issue in the sense the smaller cams cannot take the torquing force when placed in such way the cam is not free to rotate into the direction of the fall. You can say it's not designed to handle such situation or what not, but these placements do come up now and then and some cams deal with it much better than others. The issues I see: 1) head width: aliens have narrower head, and thus the axle does not take as much torquing force as an equivalent sized C4. Wider head also exacerbates the problem when placed in a shallow crack as it requires more depth to rotate/orient. 2) single vs dual axle, the latter has thinner axles, does not have the cam lobes completely wrapped around the axle, and is possibly more susceptible to axle bending/lobe warping 3) stem flexibility: stems on WC Zeros are flexible all the way to the axle (unique to all single stem cams in the smaller sizes), therefore having a much shorter lever to generate torquing force, the C4s, on the other hand, from size 1 (red) down, has stem that's rigid about 1 inch from the axle. So call it design issue or weakness, fact is, there are other types of cams that could've handle the fall in the same placement better (at least in the sense of not rendering the cam inoperable).
(This post was edited by wmfork on Jun 12, 2010, 5:22 AM)
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wmfork
Jun 12, 2010, 4:54 AM
Post #34 of 47
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This is a 0.2 (single axle) Camalot with one sheared cam stopper (the left most one) placed in a bottomed out crack. This makes the cam inoperable as the ends of the spring sits against the cam stops. The right 2 lobes (placed deeper in the crack) are badly mangled, the rigid section of the stem is slightly bent and where it connects to the axle has a lot of play. But the cam did hold the fall. I replaced it with a yellow WC zero (along with a green C3 I already owned at the time).
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jt512
Jun 12, 2010, 4:59 AM
Post #35 of 47
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climbingcrook wrote: Hey I fell on a new 0.4 C4 the other day it held but bent the axle and lobe.... I didn't notice that you'd posted this in the Gear Heads forum. From the subject line, I thought you'd broken your spine. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 12, 2010, 5:02 AM)
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patto
Jun 12, 2010, 6:10 AM
Post #36 of 47
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wmfork wrote: It's a design issue in the sense the smaller cams cannot take the torquing force when placed in such way the cam is not free to rotate into the direction of the fall. Torquing forces along what axis? This cam was placed in a horizontal as I understand it. There is very little if any torque transfered to the head in horizontals.
wmfork wrote: You can say it's not designed to handle such situation or what not, but these placements do come up now and then and some cams deal with it much better than others. I would say that around HALF of my placements are in horizontals. There hasn't been an issue of placing cams in horizontals since the flexible stem was introduced.
wmfork wrote: The issues I see: 1) head width: aliens have narrower head, and thus the axle does not take as much torquing force as an equivalent sized C4. Wider head also exacerbates the problem when placed in a shallow crack as it requires more depth to rotate/orient. Lets not compare C4 to FailCams.
wmfork wrote: 2) single vs dual axle, the latter has thinner axles, does not have the cam lobes completely wrapped around the axle, and is possibly more susceptible to axle bending/lobe warping Quite a good point. The smaller C4s are rated lower, lower that most other brands at similar sizes. Probably due to this very reason. I love my C4 0.3 for horizontals though!
wmfork wrote: 3) stem flexibility: stems on WC Zeros are flexible all the way to the axle (unique to all single stem cams in the smaller sizes), therefore having a much shorter lever to generate torquing force, the C4s, on the other hand, from size 1 (red) down, has stem that's rigid about 1 inch from the axle. All this seems to be relevent for cams placed stem out, axle vertical. I love my Zeros and their truely flexible heads but it really is only relevent when placed when there is some vertical component of the in the axle alignment.
wmfork wrote: So call it design issue or weakness, fact is, there are other types of cams that could've handle the fall in the same placement better (at least in the sense of not rendering the cam inoperable). A C4 0.4 is only rated for 10kN. Sure using a cam rated for 14kN might have meant no damaged cam but it is hardly a desing flaw.
(This post was edited by patto on Jun 12, 2010, 6:13 AM)
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Bolter
Jun 12, 2010, 6:15 AM
Post #37 of 47
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The BD C4 0.4 is rated to 10 kn. A little lower that the 14 kn for size 0.75-6. It is just not going to look perfect after a fall and not again and again. All gear has a life span and it is variable. The low strength cams are the Metolius. All are 10 kn and lower. 5kn for the smallest 2.
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wmfork
Jun 12, 2010, 3:28 PM
Post #38 of 47
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patto wrote: Torquing forces along what axis? This cam was placed in a horizontal as I understand it. There is very little if any torque transfered to the head in horizontals. From the picture of the screwed up cam, it's possible that 2 lobes may have shifted out of the placement, leaving the other 2 catching the fall, and the long axle may have contributed to excessive torquing on the lobes.
patto wrote: Lets not compare C4 to FailCams. Let's not confuse design with manufacture problems. Even so, I'd trust 2 lobe placement of my post-recall aliens over 2 lobe placement of C4s any day.
patto wrote: A C4 0.4 is only rated for 10kN. Sure using a cam rated for 14kN might have meant no damaged cam but it is hardly a desing flaw. I doubt the OP generated anywhere close to 10kN. Neither did that happen to my broken 0.2 camalot (or my slightly jacked 0.5s). It's similar to the linkcam failure in that cams are rated for textbook placements, and some cam designs are much stronger in less optimal orientations than others.
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Alphaboth
Jun 18, 2010, 7:27 AM
Post #39 of 47
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What kind of noob falls on a .4 camalot? I don't think your a noob
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climboard
Jun 22, 2010, 6:50 PM
Post #40 of 47
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So- did you send it back?
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welle
Jun 22, 2010, 7:17 PM
Post #41 of 47
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Alphaboth wrote: What kind of noob falls on a .4 camalot? I don't think your a noob +1
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sosure
Jul 12, 2010, 4:42 PM
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OP writes "It was a hard short fall in a strange placement." WMFolk speculates "I doubt the OP generated anywhere close to 10kN. Neither did that happen to my broken 0.2 camalot (or my slightly jacked 0.5s)." The only time a short fall is going to be "hard" is if you are very low down and there is little rope out. We know you were high up enough to be at least at the second piece and you seemed relieved that it held, but not relieved in the sense that "I mighta died had this failed" so I'm guessing at least 25-30 feet of rope out -- in which case a short fall wouldn't really be that hard unless you are an elephant. Inasmuch as others are reporting the same problems with bent axles on smaller BD cams, it seems mostly an issue of shitty design, crappy materials sourcing, or substandard manufacturing. Also noted in this thread was the difference in WC Zero direct terminating axle and flexible stem stem and one poster claimed that this feature is not relevant for horizontal placements. This claim is absolutely untrue. Per WC's website "Zero cams are designed specifically to work in extreme horizontal placements and shallow vertical cracks. Flexibility to the base of the cams means no termination to lever out the placement. But be aware these extreme direct aid placements require expert training and may only support body weight." Because of the directly terminating axle, the WCZero-6(Red) is a much better tool than the c4.4. As a further bonus, it has a headwidth of just 1.44 inches vs. 2.18 for the BD, has an extendable sling, is actually 12g lighter, and has only nominally less expansion range in this size. Why anyone would buy the BD is a f'n mystery.
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sp00ki
Jul 12, 2010, 5:06 PM
Post #43 of 47
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adatesman wrote: Tweaked gear from user error/bad placement =/= design flaw. ≠ or != spent like 45 seconds trying to figure out what =/= meant! (k, back to topic) ed: wtf ≠ ed2: stupid board.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jul 12, 2010, 5:07 PM)
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adatesman
Jul 12, 2010, 5:24 PM
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sp00ki
Jul 12, 2010, 5:28 PM
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Is the Haycock guide i have yours? I'm really bad at remembering forum names, but something in my mind just clicked... ed: i suppose i could've sent a message...
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jul 12, 2010, 5:28 PM)
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adatesman
Jul 12, 2010, 5:33 PM
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sp00ki
Jul 12, 2010, 5:46 PM
Post #47 of 47
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AHA! Ok. I think your address is in the front flap? If not, can you message it to me? I've been using the hell out of it, but i think there's a PDF out there i can send to kinkos for a quality printout.
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