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patmay81
Jun 24, 2010, 7:58 PM
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RiverRatMatt wrote: socalclimber wrote: Actually, I'm going to retract my statement. Since you are clearly new to climbing, you should not be attempting this. And no, I do not have an entire rack of home made quick draws. I do however have a number of cams that I have had to re-sling this way. Well, that is true, but I'm not new to tying knots, checking them, and making various gear :p Any link to where I can buy -just- BD quickdraw slings without the biners? I really can't afford all new QDs.
these are my favorites:
http://www.ems.com/...sp?productId=3656491
these are cheaper (wear out faster in my experience):
http://www.gearexpress.biz/...;Product_Code=42224C
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billl7
Jun 24, 2010, 8:06 PM
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adatesman wrote: billl7 wrote: (90% strength versus 77% strength in this testingPlease keep in mind that testing included only 3 samples for each knot looked at, so is far from being a definitive source.
Bill L
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jt512
Jun 24, 2010, 8:53 PM
Post #28 of 58
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billl7 wrote: adatesman wrote: billl7 wrote: (90% strength versus 77% strength in this testingPlease keep in mind that testing included only 3 samples for each knot looked at, so is far from being a definitive source. Thanks for adding the qualifications of that testing. I know you provided it in the linked thread - prolly should have carried them over to here. Bill L
Although, the difference in strength is large, and even comparing samples of just three, would be statistically significant, depending on the hypothesis being tested.
Jay
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RiverRatMatt
Jun 24, 2010, 9:46 PM
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Benchmark, Idaho Mountain Touring, and I'm pretty sure REI doesn't have any sewn QDs. Any other Boise stores?
I'll call up that Cali place today
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bergbryce
Jun 24, 2010, 10:00 PM
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clc wrote: holy shit man, you probably shouldn't be trusting your life to a knot if your not %100 sure its good. And obviously your not sure because your asking people on the internet. Get advice by local climbers and thy can show you , then they will tell you to buy sewn slings.
I've got a handful of dogbones that have a lot of life left in them I'll sell you for a few bucks each. pm if interested.
(This post was edited by bergbryce on Jun 24, 2010, 10:02 PM)
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bergbryce
Jun 28, 2010, 7:57 PM
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there is a store here in town that is going out of business and has a bunch of dogbones selling for $1 each + 15% off discount. I'd be happy to grab a bunch of them and send them to you. Cheaper/easier/better than self tied slings no doubt.
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vegastradguy
Jun 28, 2010, 8:49 PM
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RiverRatMatt wrote: Benchmark, Idaho Mountain Touring, and I'm pretty sure REI doesn't have any sewn QDs. Any other Boise stores? I'll call up that Cali place today
I get all my dogbones @ REI- if they have any climbing gear, chances are good they have some petzl express draws on hand.
they also are available on their website, which you can order from and ship to a store for free for pick up.
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RiverRatMatt
Jun 28, 2010, 10:00 PM
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bergbryce wrote: there is a store here in town that is going out of business and has a bunch of dogbones selling for $1 each + 15% off discount. I'd be happy to grab a bunch of them and send them to you. Cheaper/easier/better than self tied slings no doubt.
If it's not too late, go for it and send me the bill :)
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bergbryce
Jun 28, 2010, 10:03 PM
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how many do you want? 10?
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Factor2
Jun 28, 2010, 10:21 PM
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redlude97 wrote: RiverRatMatt wrote: I've recently started climbing outside, and from what I've understood from The Freedom of the Hills is it is acceptable to make your own quickdraws from tied webbing and biners. I've been using the 5 that I've made so far, aside from the downsides of not having the biners in a fixed location and orientation, is there any negative to making and using your own QDs? (the location/orientation issues can be solved with rubber bands..) Pic of an example of mine: [img]http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u279/Andrelommech/HomeMadeQD.jpg[/img] Do NOT do this. Someone just died using this same technique. See http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
Do NOT climb. People have died doing this.
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kjaking
Jun 29, 2010, 12:10 AM
Post #36 of 58
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Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this.
People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money.
That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing.
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jt512
Jun 29, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #37 of 58
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kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing.
Rather than write two paragraphs that cancel each other out, it would be simpler to write nothing.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 29, 2010, 12:25 AM)
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kjaking
Jun 29, 2010, 12:27 AM
Post #38 of 58
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jt512 wrote: kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing. Next time you have nothing to say, rather than write two paragraphs that cancel each other out, just write nothing. Jay
Fine, its safe to use this technique, but manufactured draws are more convenient, and typically more expensive. Thats what I was saying. More direct for you? Or do I need to use even less syllables?
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redlude97
Jun 29, 2010, 12:50 AM
Post #39 of 58
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kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing.
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kjaking
Jun 29, 2010, 12:57 AM
Post #40 of 58
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redlude97 wrote: kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing. Do you even know what I was talking about or look at the link?
Yeah, you are talking about using rubber bands on homemade QD's, which the OP never mentioned doing - his method is safe.
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redlude97
Jun 29, 2010, 1:02 AM
Post #41 of 58
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kjaking wrote: redlude97 wrote: kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing. Do you even know what I was talking about or look at the link? Yeah, you are talking about using rubber bands on homemade QD's, w hich the OP never mentioned doing - his method is safe.
redlude97 wrote: RiverRatMatt wrote: I've recently started climbing outside, and from what I've understood from The Freedom of the Hills is it is acceptable to make your own quickdraws from tied webbing and biners. I've been using the 5 that I've made so far, aside from the downsides of not having the biners in a fixed location and orientation, is there any negative to making and using your own QDs? (the location/orientation issues can be solved with rubber bands..) Pic of an example of mine: [img]http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u279/Andrelommech/HomeMadeQD.jpg[/img] Do NOT do this. Someone just died using this same technique. See http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; |
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jt512
Jun 29, 2010, 1:07 AM
Post #42 of 58
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kjaking wrote: jt512 wrote: kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing. Next time you have nothing to say, rather than write two paragraphs that cancel each other out, just write nothing. Jay Fine, its safe to use this technique, but manufactured draws are more convenient, and typically more expensive. Thats what I was saying. More direct for you? Or do I need to use even less syllables?
Except that you said that the cost was about the same. Nice try. Next time, try zero syllables. "Better to remain silent than to remove all doubt." I'm sure you've been told that before.
jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 29, 2010, 1:08 AM)
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acorneau
Jun 29, 2010, 1:25 AM
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jt512 wrote: Except that you said that the cost was about the same. Nice try. Next time, try zero syllables. "Better to remain silent than to remove all doubt." I'm sure you've been told that before. jay
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt."
-Abraham Lincoln
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Factor2
Jun 29, 2010, 2:30 AM
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All this over a fun jab at redludes silly post.... 
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RiverRatMatt
Jun 29, 2010, 4:22 AM
Post #45 of 58
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bergbryce wrote: how many do you want? 10?
10 would be perfect
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kjaking
Jun 29, 2010, 6:25 PM
Post #47 of 58
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jt512 wrote: kjaking wrote: jt512 wrote: kjaking wrote: Factor2 wrote: Do NOT climb. People have died doing this. People die climbing, and yet we keep going upward. Gomers have found every possible way to screw up, but this particular discussion surrounds a technique that has been used since webbing was first avalible. If we aren't allowed to tie our own runners, then why do they sell the webbing? Its fine, I don't understand what has people all worked up when somebody doesn't feel like spending a ton of money. That said, dogbones for $1! Why wouldn't you? Practically the same price as webing. Next time you have nothing to say, rather than write two paragraphs that cancel each other out, just write nothing. Jay Fine, its safe to use this technique, but manufactured draws are more convenient, and typically more expensive. Thats what I was saying. More direct for you? Or do I need to use even less syllables? Except that you said that the cost was about the same. Nice try. Next time, try zero syllables. "Better to remain silent than to remove all doubt." I'm sure you've been told that before. jay
You can't normally get that good a price, but if you can...
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Factor2
Jun 29, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #48 of 58
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redlude97 wrote: Factor2 wrote: All this over a fun jab at redludes silly post.... You think it is silly to warn people about the dangers of using rubber bands on slings to hold the biner in place after someone just died from doing it?
No, I think it's silly to use the fact that somebody died because of it as justification. If you want to say don't do something because somebody died doing that thing, then you can feel free to say that, but it's stupid. Think of something, somebody has died doing it. Ergo, don't do anything.
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RiverRatMatt
Jun 29, 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #49 of 58
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Factor2 wrote: redlude97 wrote: Factor2 wrote: All this over a fun jab at redludes silly post.... You think it is silly to warn people about the dangers of using rubber bands on slings to hold the biner in place after someone just died from doing it? No, I think it's silly to use the fact that somebody died because of it as justification. If you want to say don't do something because somebody died doing that thing, then you can feel free to say that, but it's stupid. Think of something, somebody has died doing it. Ergo, don't do anything.
As the person the advice was directed at, I appreciate the warning and it is always good to know to look out for and learn from the fatal errors others have made.
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redlude97
Jun 29, 2010, 10:33 PM
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Factor2 wrote: redlude97 wrote: Factor2 wrote: All this over a fun jab at redludes silly post.... You think it is silly to warn people about the dangers of using rubber bands on slings to hold the biner in place after someone just died from doing it? No, I think it's silly to use the fact that somebody died because of it as justification. If you want to say don't do something because somebody died doing that thing, then you can feel free to say that, but it's stupid. Think of something, somebody has died doing it. Ergo, don't do anything.
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