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p8ntballsk8r
Jul 14, 2010, 11:43 PM
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We called off climbing today due to inclement weather. This sparked my interest in what rules other climbers go by.
How long would you wait after rain to begin climbing? -since the rock is so vertical I've never really had a problem with rain.
How long would you wait after lightning/thunder?
Today we had funnel clouds and poor weather forcasted all day when we packed up. Do you set rigid limits on how long after sighting severe weather before climbing?
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Gmburns2000
Jul 15, 2010, 12:03 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: We called off climbing today due to inclement weather. This sparked my interest in what rules other climbers go by. How long would you wait after rain to begin climbing? -since the rock is so vertical I've never really had a problem with rain. How long would you wait after lightning/thunder? Today we had funnel clouds and poor weather forcasted all day when we packed up. Do you set rigid limits on how long after sighting severe weather before climbing?
Depends on the crag and the severity of the storm. For the most part, however, if I can't hear thunder then I figure it is safe to climb. What matters after that is how dry the rock is. Of course, knowing the forecast is pretty handy, too.
Also, I climb in the NE and we really don't have very severe weather, so I can't say anything to funnel clouds. I would think those would scare the crap out of me, but again, I have no experience with them.
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philbox
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Jul 15, 2010, 12:29 AM
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On the local sandstone cliffs I will wait a few days. On volcanic rhyolite I will wait about 20 minutes. So you see once again, It Depends (c). You can't make blanket statements to cover every situation.
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bill413
Jul 15, 2010, 1:00 AM
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Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it!
What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem.
I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others.
But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather.
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cornstateclimber
Jul 15, 2010, 1:32 AM
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i live in illinois, the middle of it! so when i go climb, i have to drive aminimum of 2.5 hrs, and usually 4-8 to get anywhere good! so i wait it out and climb when rain is over, or find somewhere like the rainy day overhang in jackson falls so i can climb all day even if it is raining! and if all else fails, i drink!
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MS1
Jul 15, 2010, 2:45 AM
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cornstateclimber wrote: i live in illinois, the middle of it! so when i go climb, i have to drive aminimum of 2.5 hrs, and usually 4-8 to get anywhere good! so i wait it out and climb when rain is over, or find somewhere like the rainy day overhang in jackson falls so i can climb all day even if it is raining! and if all else fails, i drink!
Do you find that you use more, or fewer, exclamation points on a rainy day?
Just curious.
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wrbill
Jul 15, 2010, 7:38 AM
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About putting a time on waiting. That is not something you can do. You have to look at the whole picture to know. Thunder and lighting is not something to play with. At work we could not be outside working if lighting was within five miles. I have climbed in the rain and will do it again, depends on the type of rock and the type of climb. You can not set hard and fast rules for some things but some things you can.
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iknowfear
Jul 15, 2010, 6:59 PM
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bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather.
Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags.
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LostinMaine
Jul 15, 2010, 10:44 PM
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iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags.
Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn?
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iknowfear
Jul 16, 2010, 7:08 AM
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LostinMaine wrote: iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags. Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn?
kinda.
But seriously: plenty of people get in trouble in the alps cause they fly/drive to here, and then they want to climb, irregardles of the weather. The mountain is still there next year, make sure you are as well...
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philbox
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Jul 16, 2010, 7:34 AM
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iknowfear wrote: LostinMaine wrote: iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags. Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn? kinda. But seriously: plenty of people get in trouble in the alps cause they fly/drive to here, and then they want to climb, irregardles of the weather. The mountain is still there next year, make sure you are as well...
Irregardles, similar to irrigation only much much worse.
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iknowfear
Jul 16, 2010, 10:45 AM
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philbox wrote: iknowfear wrote: LostinMaine wrote: iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags. Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn? kinda. But seriously: plenty of people get in trouble in the alps cause they fly/drive to here, and then they want to climb, irregardles of the weather. The mountain is still there next year, make sure you are as well... Irregardles, similar to irrigation only much much worse.
meh, that'll teach me to type before moring coffee!
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philbox
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Jul 16, 2010, 10:48 AM
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iknowfear wrote: philbox wrote: iknowfear wrote: LostinMaine wrote: iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags. Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn? kinda. But seriously: plenty of people get in trouble in the alps cause they fly/drive to here, and then they want to climb, irregardles of the weather. The mountain is still there next year, make sure you are as well... Irregardles, similar to irrigation only much much worse. meh, that'll teach me to type before moring coffee!
It will also teach you to type after moring coffee too. 
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iknowfear
Jul 16, 2010, 12:06 PM
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philbox wrote: iknowfear wrote: philbox wrote: iknowfear wrote: LostinMaine wrote: iknowfear wrote: bill413 wrote: Also, the rules (for me) depend on which climbing area. If it's a local one, I may bail more easily. If I've driven 8 hours to get there, I'll climb, d*rn it! What sort of route? Wet friction rots, wet buckets are not a real problem. I'm willing to climb some routes wet, and not willing to climb others. But, as a rule, I wait 37minutes after sighting severe weather. Around here, these are the people that are rescued or (if they are unlucky) recoverd in bags. Is that because they self-censor the "a" in darn? kinda. But seriously: plenty of people get in trouble in the alps cause they fly/drive to here, and then they want to climb, irregardles of the weather. The mountain is still there next year, make sure you are as well... Irregardles, similar to irrigation only much much worse. meh, that'll teach me to type before moring coffee! It will also teach you to type after moring coffee too.
in all fairness, I still haven't gotten a coffee... Oh and that should be mooring coffee 
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markc
Jul 16, 2010, 1:16 PM
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As some have said, there are some types of rock you just don't want to climb on when it's wet. Sandstone can be really delicate, and I think the guide for Red Rocks outside of Vegas calls for at least 24 hours after rain has stopped.
I've hiked up to places in a drizzle, found slightly overhanging climbs that stay relatively dry, and I've been chased off climbs by rain and thunder. It's all about feel and judgement, but I won't rush headlong into lightning or funnel clouds.
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