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haleymay
May 11, 2010, 4:59 AM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2009
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Ok, so I mistakenly posted this is general discussion. Got some good advice from some people and apparently annoyed others with my question and was recomended to repost here.
Heres my original post:
"I've recently discovered a fear (kinda...) of falling while sport climbing. I'm not afraid taking a fall indoors or even trad climbing (if I get scared I can place a peice). But when I'm sport climbing and not even close to the next bolt, I get really freaked out if its the least bit sketchy.
For example, this last wknd I was up City of Rocks on a longer route (and it was only a 5.8), about 8 bolts up and I got to a section where the hand holds were great, but I couldn't find foot placement I was comfortable with. I got too freaked out of the possibility of my feet slipping and me falling so I bailed :( I know I could have finished and it really wasn't that hard, but I let my doubt take over.
Besides just taking falls until I become comfortable with it, how do I get over that mental block? I'm not scared of heights, I've taken lead falls indoors, but something just takes over and I can't get past it when I'm up there.... Any advice? "
And as recomended I'll add a little bit about what exactly stops me. Until recently I've only led routes where I was confident I wouldn't fall. Then I started leading stuff that I could easily TR but were challenging leads. And I guess I over thought the possibility of falling. Since the routes aren't too awful difficult, it always seems like the falls would hurt more. When I got to a part of the climb where I wasn't 100% confident, I'd bail rather than try and fail (or fall and hurt myself).
Is taking numerous falls until it doesn't faze me anymore the only solution? I try to think about everything logically, and I know my fear is illogical and it really bothers me that I can't get past it.
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TomUK
May 14, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Registered: May 13, 2010
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What i do is if i get scared or anxious about something (in particular climbing) i find it helpful to just stop and hold for a moment, breathe, not look down and just mentally will myself on.
I know it depends on the situation but often i can just calm myself down by thinking of something else - in particular spurring yourself on to reach the top; looking where you're going and not down! Try to put the thought of a fall out of your mind. Mental strength and will is vital.
Not sure if this makes sense or helps but hopefully!
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bsyed
May 23, 2010, 11:05 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2009
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try screaming
i dont mean anything kinky, i mean take three deep breathes and on the third just go "ARAWRARGH!" and push for it...
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kickasssoprano
Jul 19, 2010, 2:48 PM
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Registered: May 16, 2010
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I have the same problem, although for some reason I have more fear on easier grades (things I have no problem with on toprope) because I know I have done it and can do it- than on harder stuff. Maybe because with harder climbs the expectation to fall is more present?
If you're anything like me, you get upset with yourself after bailing on stuff that sketched you out, which makes the whole situation even worse.
I've found that after lots of bouldering, leading becomes less sketchy, maybe because I know that at least I'm attached to a rope, and any fall is better than a ground fall 
Not sure how much help this was, just wanted to show my solidarity 
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lkeegan
Jul 21, 2010, 4:44 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2009
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I had that problem until I took a 30-footer. I don't think that going out and trying to take a 30 foot fall is a good solution, but maybe getting on something overhung and taking a smaller fall would help? Something where there is a relatively low risk involved in the fall.
Other than that, I like to talk to myself, and say OUT LOUD what I'm going to do, even if I don't actually do it. I'll be like "left hand up there right hand there, I don't really need a foot, I'll flag here to balance, then I can get my hand there and there's a foot" and then I'll start moving and I'll be fine again.
Friends of mine say that they pick a song and sing it in their head. Evidently it works for them and strangely its common.
Good luck, hope it helps!
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