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gosharks
Oct 10, 2010, 10:07 PM
Post #26 of 68
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What makes you think you are right? CliffDestructo summed it up correctly.
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giggly
Oct 10, 2010, 10:12 PM
Post #27 of 68
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onsight/flash-same/same but different How's about this. Climb to the top with out falling.
(This post was edited by giggly on Oct 10, 2010, 10:26 PM)
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cruxstacean
Oct 10, 2010, 11:01 PM
Post #28 of 68
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so.... if you brush the holds on a boulder prob does that invalidate the flash/onsight, as you have indirectly touched the holds before starting?
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Buttertoes
Oct 11, 2010, 7:53 AM
Post #29 of 68
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Yes. Giggly=Clueless Gumby
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giggly
Oct 11, 2010, 12:06 PM
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I am not. Here's what Craig Luebben said. CLIMBING STYLE The ultimate style in which to climb a route is ONSIGHT-climbing from bottom to top on the first try with no falls or hangs on the rope, and with no prior information about the route other than what you can see from the ground. If the route is at all within your grasps, fight hard to onsight it; it's an amazing feeling to fight your way up a climb, hanging on through the dout and pump, and finally clipping the top anchors. Aviod making a habit of giving up and hanging on the rope every time a move challenges you. Climbing a route on the first try, but with some prior knowledge about the moves, is a FLASH. This is also a great style in which to climb a route. The only transgression from an onsight is that you received information about the moves or hidden holds, or specific strategies on climbing the route, before or during your climb. REDPOINTING a route used to mean climbing it, after previously working out the moves, while placing all the protection or quickdraws along the way. It still means this in traditional climbing, where placing the gear can require finesse plus mental and physical energy. In sport climbing, though, you can have the quickdraws preplaced and still claim a redpoint. If you climb partway up a route, fall, and then start over from the ground but with the gear still clipped to the high point, it's often called yo-yoing the route. If you hang on the rope to rest, or because you fell, and then start again from your highpoint, it's called hangdogging. This technique can also be called working the route, if your ultimate goal is to work out the moves and later return for a redpoint. Regardless of the style in which you climb a route, be honest in reporting your accomplishments to others. If a climber says he "climbed" a route when, in fact, he hung all over the rope, he's making a dishonest claim. There's no shame in admitting that he did the route "with three hangs"; it's certainly better than misrepresenting his accomplishments.
(This post was edited by giggly on Oct 11, 2010, 12:09 PM)
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redlude97
Oct 11, 2010, 3:06 PM
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giggly wrote: I am not. Here's what Craig Luebben said. CLIMBING STYLE The ultimate style in which to climb a route is ONSIGHT-climbing from bottom to top on the first try with no falls or hangs on the rope, and with no prior information about the route other than what you can see from the ground. If the route is at all within your grasps, fight hard to onsight it; it's an amazing feeling to fight your way up a climb, hanging on through the dout and pump, and finally clipping the top anchors. Aviod making a habit of giving up and hanging on the rope every time a move challenges you. Climbing a route on the first try, but with some prior knowledge about the moves, is a FLASH. This is also a great style in which to climb a route. The only transgression from an onsight is that you received information about the moves or hidden holds, or specific strategies on climbing the route, before or during your climb. REDPOINTING a route used to mean climbing it, after previously working out the moves, while placing all the protection or quickdraws along the way. It still means this in traditional climbing, where placing the gear can require finesse plus mental and physical energy. In sport climbing, though, you can have the quickdraws preplaced and still claim a redpoint. If you climb partway up a route, fall, and then start over from the ground but with the gear still clipped to the high point, it's often called yo-yoing the route. If you hang on the rope to rest, or because you fell, and then start again from your highpoint, it's called hangdogging. This technique can also be called working the route, if your ultimate goal is to work out the moves and later return for a redpoint. Regardless of the style in which you climb a route, be honest in reporting your accomplishments to others. If a climber says he "climbed" a route when, in fact, he hung all over the rope, he's making a dishonest claim. There's no shame in admitting that he did the route "with three hangs"; it's certainly better than misrepresenting his accomplishments. You are truly retarded if you still can't see what is wrong with your position based on this. Notice how there is no mention of 'problems" or bouldering at all.
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clc
Oct 12, 2010, 3:11 AM
Post #32 of 68
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Craig knows what he is talking about and giggly is just screwing around.
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jamatt
Oct 12, 2010, 3:44 AM
Post #33 of 68
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so it would seem that a true onsight attempts to recreate the experience of an FA done in good style. no prior knowledge, ground up.
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cruxstacean
Oct 12, 2010, 3:55 AM
Post #34 of 68
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jamatt wrote: so it would seem that a true onsight attempts to recreate the experience of an FA done in good style. no prior knowledge, ground up. Well assuming the FAist climbed the route first try. That is probably not the case on the majority of climbs 5.13 or harder...
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jamatt
Oct 12, 2010, 4:04 AM
Post #35 of 68
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are people doing 5.13s ground up?
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altelis
Oct 12, 2010, 4:30 AM
Post #36 of 68
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giggly wrote: No. I am not half right. I am 100% rite. Oh the ironing
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TheRucat
Oct 12, 2010, 4:53 AM
Post #37 of 68
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giggly wrote: No. I am not half right. I am 100% rite. Your drunk again.
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curt
Oct 12, 2010, 5:33 AM
Post #38 of 68
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TheRucat wrote: giggly wrote: No. I am not half right. I am 100% rite. Your drunk again. ...and on and on it goes. Curt
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Hooky
Oct 12, 2010, 11:21 AM
Post #39 of 68
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jsaunders wrote: Just curious what the general opinion is. Is it considered a flash if you're reading about the route in the guidebook? Or do you still consider that an on-sight? Here is what I consider the correct definitions: OS = to climb the route (no falls etc) without any practical and/or theoretical information about the climb in advance other than the definition of the route (=guidebook description) FLASH = to climb the route without any practical but with any theoretical information in advance (-> you can watch your partner, get advice, inspect (but not touch) the climb from rappel) RP = to climb the route with any theoretical and/or practical information (-> second and other attempts, touching and checking out the holds and moves from rappel etc.)
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giggly
Oct 12, 2010, 12:10 PM
Post #40 of 68
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If you receive information with your eyes and perceive with your mind by looking at the boulder and brushing off the holds and climb the thing first go it is a flash. Most of the time this is possible on boulder climbs. In this case Craigs quote would be 100% grammaticlly correct. So it would be considered reading comprehension skills. Yes I am trying to have fun by sharing a little bit of my time and knowledge and fun. Which brings up the question... If a boulder is super tall highball are you still bouldering or have you entered into the solo range?
(This post was edited by giggly on Oct 12, 2010, 12:34 PM)
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hafilax
Oct 12, 2010, 9:21 PM
Post #42 of 68
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cruxstacean wrote: so.... if you brush the holds on a boulder prob does that invalidate the flash/onsight, as you have indirectly touched the holds before starting? Personally, I don't attach a lot of meaning to on-sighting in bouldering unless it's a high-ball.
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redlude97
Oct 12, 2010, 10:26 PM
Post #43 of 68
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tower_climber wrote: redlude97 wrote: You are truly retarded if you still can't see what is wrong with your position based on this. Notice how there is no mention of 'problems" or bouldering at all. Here it goes... Bouldering is not real climbing. Done. Problem solved. Then there would be no definition for the term flash since it only applies to bouldering
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tower_climber
Oct 12, 2010, 10:39 PM
Post #44 of 68
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Well I was only being facetious before, but flash is definitely not singularly a bouldering term...
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redlude97
Oct 12, 2010, 10:41 PM
Post #45 of 68
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Yes it is
giggly wrote: Flash=boulder problem climbed on first try without falls Onsight= rope climb lead onfirst try without falls
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redlude97
Oct 13, 2010, 12:51 AM
Post #47 of 68
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Are you just slow or did you not read the whole thread.
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tower_climber
Oct 13, 2010, 1:11 AM
Post #48 of 68
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Definitely the first one, but I also read the whole thread. It took awhile (the whole slow thing, you know) but I did it in the end. Quick summary: The original poster asked about which term was correct to use when you read about a route in a guidebook. Various responses either tried to be helpful or to make fun of the OP and various replies. Giggly came into the thread and quickly proved to be an idiot. Curt pointed out giggly's idiocy. Gosharks seconded Curt's observation. Giggly posted up an article attributed to Craig Luebben which directly contradicted his original statement. And now we're busy arguing. You have taken up giggly's (incorrect) argument, while I have backed mine up with proof that lines up with what many on here have said. Or am I missing something? I am retarded, you know.
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redlude97
Oct 13, 2010, 3:31 PM
Post #49 of 68
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tower_climber wrote: Definitely the first one, but I also read the whole thread. It took awhile (the whole slow thing, you know) but I did it in the end. Quick summary: The original poster asked about which term was correct to use when you read about a route in a guidebook. Various responses either tried to be helpful or to make fun of the OP and various replies. Giggly came into the thread and quickly proved to be an idiot. Curt pointed out giggly's idiocy. Gosharks seconded Curt's observation. Giggly posted up an article attributed to Craig Luebben which directly contradicted his original statement. And now we're busy arguing. You have taken up giggly's (incorrect) argument, while I have backed mine up with proof that lines up with what many on here have said. Or am I missing something? I am retarded, you know. I was being sarcastic with my responses, hence the
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spikeddem
Oct 13, 2010, 4:10 PM
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This thread should die so another one just like it can come up...not that a current thread on the same topic has stopped people from posting in the past.
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