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ACJ
Oct 25, 2010, 12:41 PM
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I am wondering if anyone here has taken the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. I will be taking it this year (2011) and have the choice between North Conway in September or Smith Rock in November.
My questions are:
1. Anyone familiar with this course want to offer advice on where to go or who to take it from?
2. I haven't climbed at either location so if you have been to both, would you prefer one over the other? Why?
3. Weather. I am a bit concerned about Smith Rock being cold the first week of november, anyone have experience with that?
Thanks.
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gbmaz
Oct 25, 2010, 1:32 PM
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I climbed with a guy who took his course in North Conway and he talked about how they climbed rain or shine. In his case it was rain and on some of the slabby routes it was like climbing up a steep river.
September in New Hampshire is gorgeous, but there is a pretty high chance of rain and cold weather.
Don't know anything about Smith Rock.
YMMV,
George
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colatownkid
Oct 25, 2010, 1:34 PM
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ACJ wrote: I am wondering if anyone here has taken the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. I will be taking it this year (2011) and have the choice between North Conway in September or Smith Rock in November. My questions are: 1. Anyone familiar with this course want to offer advice on where to go or who to take it from? 2. I haven't climbed at either location so if you have been to both, would you prefer one over the other? Why? 3. Weather. I am a bit concerned about Smith Rock being cold the first week of november, anyone have experience with that? Thanks.
I just finished taking a Rock Instructor Course in North Carolina. I have never been to North Conway or Smith Rock, so I can't speak to the locations specifically. However, anecdotally, the typical advice is to take the course in a "hard" location and take the exam in an "easy" one. In other words, go some place with which you are unfamiliar when taking the course to maximize learning potential. When it comes to exam time, it is a lot less stressful to take the exam in an area with which you are more familiar or have time to climb at beforehand.
As for who to take it from, all of the instructors in the pool are ridiculously qualified and good at what they do. They also all have different opinions and preferences about when to employ particular methods, how to best manage the risk in a particular situation, etc. I would say who your instructors are is not super-relevant because they're all good at what they do, unless you also want to use the course as a networking opportunity. (If this is the case, be sure to make a great first impression and be totally in shape and ready for the course.)
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rock_fencer
Oct 25, 2010, 2:40 PM
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Smith Rock will at least be dry. Cold is manageable, rain is not when climbing. Both locations are awesome. Trad wise the granite up in Conway is excellent and the Basalt columns of the lower gorge at Smith are sweet too. Smith has a shit ton of sport to go along. Campground at smith is pretty nice too right by the park and has showers and such.
T
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ACJ
Oct 25, 2010, 2:44 PM
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Can you walk to all of the climbing from the campground, or is a car still needed?
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 26, 2010, 1:55 AM
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ACJ wrote: Can you walk to all of the climbing from the campground, or is a car still needed?
Now, I haven't been to Smith, but I will answer this. I love North Conway and climbing in NH in Sept is Awesome. True, it could rain but you are probably more likely to have beautiful days. NH has some top notch instructors as well (although anyone teaching the Rock Insstructor is probably top-notch).
As far as camping, however, this is probably North Conway's downfall. There is not a great campground near the climbing. There are a handful of private campgrouds, then there are some state campgrounds within a 15 minute drive, but there are many more motels, hotels and B & B's in North Conway then there places to camp.
Josh
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rock_fencer
Oct 26, 2010, 2:17 AM
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You can walk to anywhere in the state park from the campground. Its actually the coolest crag i've been too in terms of amenities and comfort to crowds. The climbing is stellar as well.
Edit: i agree that NH is awesome as well! I'm partial to Granite.
I guess it would boil down to what type of experience on the rock your looking for. Most of smith for example has completely bolted anchors on most of the climbs, in NH you still have to build anchors. I think there is more to be learned by a course in NH. Plus climbing in the rain happens and its good to know how to handle it.
(This post was edited by rock_fencer on Oct 26, 2010, 2:21 AM)
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ACJ
Oct 26, 2010, 4:11 PM
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Smith Rock sounds great. Perhaps I should have mentioned that I live and guide out in North Carolina around Looking Glass and the Linville Gorge. I've been building anchors nonstop for about 4 years now, so clipping in sounds nice for a change...
A few others made note that since I live and work out east, it would be good to go west and see how it's done out there. That coupled with the idea of hanging around an area that I can walk everywhere in... sounds amazing. I think I will go to Smith and save North Conway for a personal trip.
Thanks for the help!
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