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rockclimber919
Nov 17, 2010, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2008
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Ok, I'm trying to get back on the line after about a year. I'm thinking about upgrading my system. I have 60 ft of webbing and using line lockers on each end. One goes to the anchor around the tree, the other goes to my tensioning system. I went through a lot of high angle rescue classes and picked up some rigging plates and some pulleys. Here's my tensioning system. One side has a 3 point rescue place, a Petzl Paw S, the other has a double pully going to the other anchor. The rope runs from a biner through the pullys, giving me a 5 to 1 advantage system, then to another biner. So my question is, whats the best way to lock the rope off and have it fairly easy to release? I was thinking colve hitch or munter with a mule backup. Any ideas or comments of how i could do it better, more efficiently?
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dugl33
Nov 17, 2010, 8:45 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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rockclimber919 wrote: Ok, I'm trying to get back on the line after about a year. I'm thinking about upgrading my system. I have 60 ft of webbing and using line lockers on each end. One goes to the anchor around the tree, the other goes to my tensioning system. I went through a lot of high angle rescue classes and picked up some rigging plates and some pulleys. Here's my tensioning system. One side has a 3 point rescue place, a Petzl Paw S, the other has a double pully going to the other anchor. The rope runs from a biner through the pullys, giving me a 5 to 1 advantage system, then to another biner. So my question is, whats the best way to lock the rope off and have it fairly easy to release? I was thinking colve hitch or munter with a mule backup. Any ideas or comments of how i could do it better, more efficiently?
Did your really mean to post this in the slackline section? Maybe post some pics?
If I understand your question the munter-mule could work. A clove hitch would be hard / impossible to release if its under load. Also look into the mariners knot and prusik on the main line, below the pulleys.
Once again, I'd recommend posting some pics of your setup, or at least a drawing.
******
Ok. Never-mind my response. I was picturing a hauling system. I don't think I've seen a slackline set up that was any more complicated than a friction hitch that essentially locked itself off. 
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 17, 2010, 8:56 PM)
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slacklinejoe
Nov 18, 2010, 7:56 PM
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Dozens of methods will do the job.
If you're looking for the absolute laziest way that is dead simple to remove, look into friction wrapping your rope around the tree.
Alternatively, Munter-Mule works well.
Since it sounds like you're already into over-rigging (you did say you only had 60 ft of webbing, that much gear is already absurdly overkill), I'd recommend looking into making a releasable hitch and tying off however you'd like. Releasable hitches aren't hard to make and it's an excuse to use some accessory cord.
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derrickp
Mar 3, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2008
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Check this setup from balance community http://www.balancecommunity.com/Slack-Science/all-about-pulley-systems-the-complete-guide . This system works and does so in an efficient manner, once you learn how to use it. I wouldn't plan on pouring your life savings into this system unless your a dedicated slackliner and your focus is on longlines over 300' or your rigging highlines in which case you should remove this system once tightened. The use of shackles and spansets over steel biners and webbing has made a significant impact on making slacklining safe and it has made creating really long highlines possible. I should also note that with more equipment and rigging comes a greater responsibility to understand the proper rigging methods and limitations of said gear.
We are starting to see a shift in the industry of slacklining and it is clearly seen in the transition from using climbing equipment for your setup to specific slacklining equipment designed for much higher tension than climbing gear. I'm excited to see what slackline equipment will look like in a decade or so.
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