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rock_fencer
Dec 2, 2010, 6:37 PM
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In light of the Sprad / Trad / headpointing discussions of late.
http://www.rockandice.com/...s-at-new-river-gorge
"Goodman fell several times on the first boulder problem, then up higher, decking on two attempts when a mirco-nut popped. "That was a ripper piece," Goodman stated, according to Fryberger's blog. "It's supposed to do that."
Whats your take on decking, not once but twice??? No R rating according to the article!
T
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bill413
Dec 2, 2010, 7:10 PM
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rock_fencer wrote: In light of the Sprad / Trad / headpointing discussions of late. http://www.rockandice.com/...s-at-new-river-gorge "Goodman fell several times on the first boulder problem, then up higher, decking on two attempts when a mirco-nut popped. "That was a ripper piece," Goodman stated, according to Fryberger's blog. "It's supposed to do that." Whats your take on decking, not once but twice??? No R rating according to the article! T
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chadnsc
Dec 2, 2010, 7:57 PM
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I guess I was just ahead of the coolness curve when I decked at the beginning of this season. 
That cam that blew was sooo just a ripper piece. 
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milesenoell
Dec 2, 2010, 9:02 PM
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If I ever start placing "ripper pieces" something has already gone very wrong.
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bill413
Dec 2, 2010, 9:16 PM
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Man, all the money I've wasted on screamers when I could have just been placing shoddy gearripper pieces.
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TarHeelEMT
Dec 2, 2010, 10:19 PM
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cragmasterp
Dec 2, 2010, 10:42 PM
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Headpointing is where its at, nice to see some routes put up in this style, at this grade.
On a serious lead like this, a ripper piece can slow you down a little bit before you whack your pad.
Nice looking nuttall sandstone on those routes for sure!
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caughtinside
Dec 3, 2010, 12:50 AM
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not ideal, but slowing you down is better than nothing.
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csproul
Dec 3, 2010, 2:04 AM
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My take on it...I wouldn't presume to tell Pat Goodman anything about climbing!
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sf
Dec 3, 2010, 2:30 AM
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Pat Goodman's skill and commitment level coupled with his headpoint style have enabled him to establish some lines that are, given their seriousness, almost hard to believe fall within the realm of human possibility. While his tactics may not adhere perfectly to the old school, ground up ethic, his use of "ripper pieces" and pads where anyone else would bust out the drill certainly puts his accomplishments in perspective. Plus, he's a southern boy...! However, if this is the new way, I’ll gladly accept the title of “weak and outdated”.
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donteatindians
Dec 3, 2010, 3:14 AM
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I think that it definitely is "new." Obviously you aren't going to see everybody going out and doing it. Some people may argue about it being bad style, but personally I think that lacks imagination.
I don't think anybody will argue that trad climbing carries with it a much greater mental aspect. We probably all no someone that still thinks the "leader must not fall," and sometimes that is true, but mostly that is just a fear-driven excuse to not push yourself out of your comfort zone and expand your climbing opportunities.
Climbers like Pat Goodman have done the opposite, and chose to take the "uncomfortable" route, climbing past the "limits" that have stopped others, and truly changing the realm of what we think is possible, not only physically, but mentally as well.
Many climbers will resist his tactics and stay in their comfort zone, and that's fine too. Not everyone wants to feel that discomfort. We all like climbing for our own reasons, and we all have different levels of risk we are willing to accept. Personally though, I applaud Pat, and other climbers like him, who are pushing the sport to new heights... Sorry, irresistible pun.
And to think you were scared pulling moves with the bolt belt high on that sport route. It's okay, I was too.
Chase
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jamatt
Dec 3, 2010, 4:07 AM
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bearbreeder
Dec 3, 2010, 8:34 AM
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they climb much harder than ever will in this lifetime ...
remember the good ole days when bums like messner would climb without oxygen ... the HORROR !!!
im sure someone in the old boys club asked "is climbing (dying) without oxygen the new mountaineering?"
kudos to those who push the limits ... without them we'd still be doing 5.8s in mountain boot and pitons ...
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TarHeelEMT
Dec 3, 2010, 1:54 PM
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jamatt wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: I can't think of anything less trad than sucking at placing gear. home team tarheel, home team!
Haha. It was a totally off the cuff remark. On further consideration, it's pretty darned cool. I just wouldn't want to do it. Go home team.
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j_ung
Dec 3, 2010, 2:01 PM
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If that's the line I think it is, folks have been trying it for years and nobody has quite connected the dots until now. Quite the prize!
PS: Headpointing isn't really new, although this is the first time I've heard of people places pieces designed specifically to rip.
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j_ung
Dec 3, 2010, 2:05 PM
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Oh, and just to head this off before it goes there, haters are gonna bash the climbing style, I'm sure (even without knowledge of the route and the crag), but do a little research before you bash the climber, huh?
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kachoong
Dec 3, 2010, 3:29 PM
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Who needs ripper pieces when you can rely on a gaggle of small crag dogs at the base to assist with the decking.
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IsayAutumn
Dec 3, 2010, 4:13 PM
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I think it's pretty cool. It sounds like Mr. Goodman's line probably never would have been climbed ground up, and definitely not onsight, so I'm not sure if the style police have any ground to stand on.
As far as "ripper pieces" go, hey, if it keeps you from getting hurt, then I say good on ya. That's some good use of bad pro. Also, good use of big balls.
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ptlong2
Dec 3, 2010, 4:34 PM
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kachoong wrote: Who needs ripper pieces when you can rely on a gaggle of small crag dogs at the base to assist with the decking.
It's "pack" of dogs, you twit. A gaggle of geese, a herd of cows.... a pace of asses.
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kachoong
Dec 3, 2010, 4:38 PM
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ptlong2 wrote: kachoong wrote: Who needs ripper pieces when you can rely on a gaggle of small crag dogs at the base to assist with the decking. It's "pack" of dogs, you twit. A gaggle of geese, a herd of cows.... a pace of asses.
Ummm no, for small dogs it's gaggle.
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sbaclimber
Dec 3, 2010, 4:46 PM
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kachoong wrote: ptlong2 wrote: kachoong wrote: Who needs ripper pieces when you can rely on a gaggle of small crag dogs at the base to assist with the decking. It's "pack" of dogs, you twit. A gaggle of geese, a herd of cows.... a pace of asses. Ummm no, for small dogs it's gaggle.
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tedman
Dec 3, 2010, 10:01 PM
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I'd go with a parliament of owls personally... train em right and they can fly up at you when you fall providing a little more impulse to the protection system.
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jsj7051
Dec 3, 2010, 11:16 PM
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A "Crash of Rinos" is my favorite.
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bill413
Dec 4, 2010, 12:04 AM
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ptlong2 wrote: kachoong wrote: Who needs ripper pieces when you can rely on a gaggle of small crag dogs at the base to assist with the decking. It's "pack" of dogs, you twit. A gaggle of geese, a herd of cows.... a pace of asses.
Frequently the speed I climb at. 
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