|
soundandfury
Jan 2, 2011, 1:51 AM
Post #1 of 14
(5457 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2011
Posts: 3
|
Hello fellow trad climbers. I've been working on building a trad rack on a student's budget for the better part of a year now and I just have a quick question. Does anyone have any suggestions for currently manufactured cams that fit well between the Black Diamond C4 sizes 2 and 3? I've done a decent amount of research online and I've discovered that it's somewhat difficult to tell exactly what size a piece is just from the measurement of its range.
My apologies if this has been asked before. Thanks for any and all advice!
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jan 2, 2011, 2:26 AM
Post #2 of 14
(5436 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
WC tech friends/helium friends. not sure about the number, as i dont feel theres a big enough gap between the 2 & 3 to warrant another piece in that range for most cragging (indian creek excluded, of course).
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 2, 2011, 3:02 AM
Post #3 of 14
(5416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
I'm not sure why you would need a piece between those two sizes; assuming you have average hand size, you're talking perfect hand jams. Just keep climbing until you get to another size!
If you really want something between 2 and 3 camalots, however, go for a 3 friend or a purple Metolius. I've personally never noticed any major gap between 2 and 3 camalots, however.
|
|
|
|
|
vinnie83
Jan 2, 2011, 4:03 AM
Post #4 of 14
(5393 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 112
|
I'll 2nd the recommendation for 3 friend or purple metolius. I've got one of each and they both get used a bunch at indian creek, but other than that they just collect dust. If you're just climbing at the creek go with the forged friend and save some money.
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Jan 2, 2011, 5:04 AM
Post #5 of 14
(5380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
Why would you need something between them? They overlap considerably. Just get another #2 or #3 if you want another cam to cover the range in between them...
Otherwise, check out a cam size comparison chart.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jan 2, 2011, 6:10 AM
Post #6 of 14
(5363 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
Stick with camalots, just double up. They are good cams.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jan 2, 2011, 8:25 AM
Post #7 of 14
(5343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
WC Friend #3.
|
|
|
|
|
rightarmbad
Jan 2, 2011, 10:31 AM
Post #8 of 14
(5328 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 218
|
I have found this as well, but only once.
Stepping off a tall pillar to crack off to the right.
A 2 looked very dubious, and try as much as I could, I could not get a three in there.
As this was the only bit of gear to step off the pillar and into the crack, I ended up doubling up trying to make it feel safer to step out and climb.
Fine, except that I now had no other cams in that size to complete the route, as I had used both just to step on.
So for me, there is certainly a small point at the large end of a camalot 2 that can sometimes be sketchy looking and that a three won't fit.
It has only been the one time, but it did drive home the message that variety can be a good thing.
|
|
|
|
|
soundandfury
Jan 2, 2011, 12:15 PM
Post #9 of 14
(5321 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2011
Posts: 3
|
Thanks everyone! I do have pretty small hands but the above poster is right, it's a good size we are talking about. I just like the idea of having a lot of variety. C4's make the backbone of my rack and I love them, but as we all know, it's nice to have options! |
|
|
|
|
rocknice2
Jan 2, 2011, 1:38 PM
Post #10 of 14
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1221
|
I have found this too. The 2 is rattly and the 3 doesn't go in.
I have thought of making a 2.5 out of an old 2.
This happens rarely but it happens @ the crux of one of my favorite routes.
The crack is slightly flaring in so a 3 won't clear the lip and a 2 is near maxed out once inside.
A 45mm - 75mm would be perfect or a #3 Link Cam
Range :
30.2-52.1 mm, 1.19-2.05 in (size 1)
37.2-64.9 mm, 1.46-2.55 in (size 2)
50.7-87.9 mm, 2.00-3.46 in (size 3)
66.0-114.7 mm, 2.60-4.51 in (size 4)
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Jan 2, 2011, 1:45 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
dugl33
Jan 2, 2011, 5:01 PM
Post #11 of 14
(5265 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
|
You might check out Wired Bliss. I've had a similar problem between the camalot .5 and .75, and I have a Wired Bliss piece that is right between those sizes.
They are beautifully made units and a little cheaper than C4s.
http://shop.wiredblissusa.com/Camming-Devices_c2.htm
|
|
|
|
|
forkliftdaddy
Jan 2, 2011, 5:49 PM
Post #12 of 14
(5245 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
|
Purple Metolius gets my vote, as well. 3 Friend is almost the same size as the gold C4.
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Jan 2, 2011, 5:50 PM
Post #13 of 14
(5244 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
I only rack #1 - #5 but I don't think there is enough overlap between any of the sizes. IMO it is there one real flaw. Not a major flaw but a flaw.
|
|
|
|
|
soundandfury
Jan 2, 2011, 6:54 PM
Post #14 of 14
(5215 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2011
Posts: 3
|
I think I will probably go with the purple Metolius Powercam based on the measurements and what everyone here has said.
Here's what I've looked up:
BD C4 #2: 37.2-64.9mm
BD C4 #3: 50.7-87.9mm
WC Tech Friend #3: 43-66mm
Metolius Powercam #8: 48.5-71.4mm
Thanks again for all the advice! :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
