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Jooler


Jan 5, 2011, 8:38 PM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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Hey Rick,
I too am afraid of heights. One thing I focus on when climbing taller routes (and boulder problems) is to look no further down than my feet. That way I know in the back of my mind that I am quite high off the ground, however without visually seeing it, it doesn't "paralize" me.

This works for me, it may also help you too!


reg


Jan 5, 2011, 8:48 PM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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i could tell you some stories! i was deathly afraid when i started. i have come a long way. trust the gear and the people and gain knowledge about safety and systems. you'll come around. climb more


milesenoell


Jan 5, 2011, 9:56 PM
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Re: [curt] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
theapollo wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Having your own personal gear and a rope can get you a long ways in the beginning. DON'T SPEND $200 plus for a rope yet. There are a number of good quality entry level ropes that start around $150.

New Ropes + New Climber = TRASHED ROPE

It's just how the game goes.

There are good entry level ropes for way cheaper than 150 bucks. I got my first rope for 89 dollars at a big name retail store outlet (Example would be Altrec Outlet, REI outlet, whatever the equivalent of EMS's outlet is, etc.).

What constitutes an "entry level rope"?

In reply to:
It was a 50m, but for a beginner 50m is still a pretty good starting point

Not if the beginner's local crags are more than 25 m high.

Jay

Well, that's strange. In my first year of climbing I somehow managed to wander up quite a few 300 foot high climbs and somehow get back down with a single 50 meter rope. Cool

Curt

A local sport crag near me has anchors set so that my 60m rope generally lowers the climber to about 3 feet off the deck (with a small, efficient tie in knot). It's annoying having to deal with mismatches between gear and rocks, so why add to it with a shorter than normal rope?

Edited.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jan 5, 2011, 9:58 PM)


milesenoell


Jan 5, 2011, 10:14 PM
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Re: [jt512] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
oldsalt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
oldsalt wrote:
A solo lead is when you anchor your rope at ground level and belay yourself as you lead a route.

Actually, what you are referring to is called a "roped solo."

In reply to:
In the hierarchy of insanity, roped soloing is crazy . . .

No, it isn't. In terms of risk, it's basically like ordinary leading, except that in order to compensate for the extra effort involved in self-belaying you have to reduce the difficulty level of your climbs substantially—which makes it kind of pointless, IMHO.

Jay

I feel odd challenging one of your posts, Jay, but...

Roped soloing is more generic than just leading.

Maybe in Florida. I've never heard anyone refer to "toprope soloing" as anything other than just that, nor have I ever heard anyone use the term "roped solo" to mean anything other than leading.

Jay

I'm calling BS. Every thread I've ever seen on here that deals with "roped soloing" has involved confusion over soloing on TR or lead.


curt


Jan 6, 2011, 2:55 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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milesenoell wrote:
curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
theapollo wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Having your own personal gear and a rope can get you a long ways in the beginning. DON'T SPEND $200 plus for a rope yet. There are a number of good quality entry level ropes that start around $150.

New Ropes + New Climber = TRASHED ROPE

It's just how the game goes.

There are good entry level ropes for way cheaper than 150 bucks. I got my first rope for 89 dollars at a big name retail store outlet (Example would be Altrec Outlet, REI outlet, whatever the equivalent of EMS's outlet is, etc.).

What constitutes an "entry level rope"?

In reply to:
It was a 50m, but for a beginner 50m is still a pretty good starting point

Not if the beginner's local crags are more than 25 m high.

Jay

Well, that's strange. In my first year of climbing I somehow managed to wander up quite a few 300 foot high climbs and somehow get back down with a single 50 meter rope. Cool

Curt

A local sport crag near me has anchors set so that my 60m rope generally lowers the climber to about 3 feet off the deck (with a small, efficient tie in knot). It's annoying having to deal with mismatches between gear and rocks, so why add to it with a shorter than normal rope?

I suppose that's also why nobody heads up El Capitan without a 2,000 meter rope.

Curt


jt512


Jan 6, 2011, 3:35 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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milesenoell wrote:
jt512 wrote:
oldsalt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
oldsalt wrote:
A solo lead is when you anchor your rope at ground level and belay yourself as you lead a route.

Actually, what you are referring to is called a "roped solo."

In reply to:
In the hierarchy of insanity, roped soloing is crazy . . .

No, it isn't. In terms of risk, it's basically like ordinary leading, except that in order to compensate for the extra effort involved in self-belaying you have to reduce the difficulty level of your climbs substantially—which makes it kind of pointless, IMHO.

Jay

I feel odd challenging one of your posts, Jay, but...

Roped soloing is more generic than just leading.

Maybe in Florida. I've never heard anyone refer to "toprope soloing" as anything other than just that, nor have I ever heard anyone use the term "roped solo" to mean anything other than leading.

Jay

I'm calling BS. Every thread I've ever seen on here that deals with "roped soloing" has involved confusion over soloing on TR or lead.

Well, if they're confused about it on rockclimbing.com . . .

Jay


jt512


Jan 6, 2011, 3:38 AM
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Re: [curt] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
theapollo wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Having your own personal gear and a rope can get you a long ways in the beginning. DON'T SPEND $200 plus for a rope yet. There are a number of good quality entry level ropes that start around $150.

New Ropes + New Climber = TRASHED ROPE

It's just how the game goes.

There are good entry level ropes for way cheaper than 150 bucks. I got my first rope for 89 dollars at a big name retail store outlet (Example would be Altrec Outlet, REI outlet, whatever the equivalent of EMS's outlet is, etc.).

What constitutes an "entry level rope"?

In reply to:
It was a 50m, but for a beginner 50m is still a pretty good starting point

Not if the beginner's local crags are more than 25 m high.

Jay

Well, that's strange. In my first year of climbing I somehow managed to wander up quite a few 300 foot high climbs and somehow get back down with a single 50 meter rope. Cool

Curt

A local sport crag near me has anchors set so that my 60m rope generally lowers the climber to about 3 feet off the deck (with a small, efficient tie in knot). It's annoying having to deal with mismatches between gear and rocks, so why add to it with a shorter than normal rope?

I suppose that's also why nobody heads up El Capitan without a 2,000 meter rope.

Curt

El Cap isn't exactly a sport crag.

Jay


curt


Jan 6, 2011, 3:54 AM
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Re: [jt512] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
curt wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
theapollo wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Having your own personal gear and a rope can get you a long ways in the beginning. DON'T SPEND $200 plus for a rope yet. There are a number of good quality entry level ropes that start around $150.

New Ropes + New Climber = TRASHED ROPE

It's just how the game goes.

There are good entry level ropes for way cheaper than 150 bucks. I got my first rope for 89 dollars at a big name retail store outlet (Example would be Altrec Outlet, REI outlet, whatever the equivalent of EMS's outlet is, etc.).

What constitutes an "entry level rope"?

In reply to:
It was a 50m, but for a beginner 50m is still a pretty good starting point

Not if the beginner's local crags are more than 25 m high.

Jay

Well, that's strange. In my first year of climbing I somehow managed to wander up quite a few 300 foot high climbs and somehow get back down with a single 50 meter rope. Cool

Curt

A local sport crag near me has anchors set so that my 60m rope generally lowers the climber to about 3 feet off the deck (with a small, efficient tie in knot). It's annoying having to deal with mismatches between gear and rocks, so why add to it with a shorter than normal rope?

I suppose that's also why nobody heads up El Capitan without a 2,000 meter rope.

Curt

El Cap isn't exactly a sport crag.

Jay

True enough. However it's the post by milesenoell that is non-responsive, as the OP never asked about proper equipment for a sport crag.

Curt


milesenoell


Jan 6, 2011, 8:58 PM
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Re: [curt] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
In reply to:

El Cap isn't exactly a sport crag.

Jay

True enough. However it's the post by milesenoell that is non-responsive, as the OP never asked about proper equipment for a sport crag.

Curt

I was just responding to the comment on rope lengths, not trying to steer the whole thread. As for bringing up sport, that tends to be where your chosen rope length becomes a significant concern.


Edited to fix cheesetit.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jan 6, 2011, 8:59 PM)


markc


Jan 6, 2011, 10:00 PM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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I was also afraid of heights when I started climbing. The first couple times anxiety stopped me from finishing routes that were around 40-50 feet and within my abilities. Some routes weren't a problem, but the combination of an awkward move at height would throw me off mentally. A general nervousness would settle in at a certain height, but as I kept climbing that height progressively bumped higher.

It took me a while to get into sport climbing, and to have nerves settle down once I did. I probably had a season or two of sport climbing under my belt before I followed someone up a multipitch route. Following a friend up easy routes at Seneca really changed things.

Since that time, I've been able to get on progressively taller routes. I've climbed just a little bit at Yosemite, including Royal Arches. That's by far the tallest thing I ever climbed, and the height wasn't a problem. I never imagined climbing something 1,400 feet when I was struggling up a 40' route, and it was a gradual process.

Regarding gear, I bought it as I needed it. I had personal gear and had been going out with a group of experienced friends. One day none of my partners with ropes were available, so I bought a rope, webbing, and a handful of biners. (I had experience rigging anchors, as did my other ropeless friend.) I bought quickdraws as I got into sport, gradually expanding the number of draws as I could afford to. After seconding traditional routes for a while, I went in on a rack with my housemate.


Dadonate


Jan 8, 2011, 6:57 PM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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Try not to think of it as overcoming fear but dealing with it if any climber says they are not scared they are lying it wouldnt be fun without the fear but remember whats safer than falling way off of the ground tied into gear thats not going to rip have fun


Greggle


Jan 8, 2011, 9:45 PM
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Re: [Dadonate] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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Dadonate wrote:
Try not to think of it as overcoming fear but dealing with it if any climber says they are not scared they are lying it wouldnt be fun without the fear but remember whats safer than falling way off of the ground tied into gear thats not going to rip have fun

An inauspicious first post...


saint_john


May 5, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Re: [Greggle] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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Greggle wrote:
Dadonate wrote:
Try not to think of it as overcoming fear but dealing with it if any climber says they are not scared they are lying it wouldnt be fun without the fear but remember whats safer than falling way off of the ground tied into gear thats not going to rip have fun

An inauspicious first post...

not to mention a run on sentence.


climber49er


May 9, 2011, 4:59 PM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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I don't seem to be terribly afraid of heights, but I am VERY afraid when I think about the results of a fall. I tend to focus on the wall in front of me and I'm fine that way. It's when I look down that my legs turn to butter and I can't hardly breath.

I have a problem fully trusting the pro, even though I have had a couple big falls and everything was fine.


cacalderon


May 10, 2011, 1:56 AM
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Re: [JokerRick] New climber - Question about fear [In reply to]
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i suffered from fear of heights when i started climbing years ago.

It took me a long long time to beat my fear and start leading (~1 year). Once leading i would concentrate on the "3' x 3' piece of rock" in front of me and just forget the rest. The more a climbed the better I got at controlling my fear. With time this fear, as you know it, will just pretty much disappear.

I agree with so me of the other posts, fear is good and you need practice to learn how to control your fear so that it does not turn into panic (losing control).

Keep at it and have fun.

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