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yodadave
Jan 9, 2011, 3:19 AM
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clearly a very subjective question but what have been peoples experiences with this one.
I'm on a budget and need a home wall to train as hitting the rock is taking it's toll on my gas budget.
So what are your dimensions ladies and gents?
8ft x 8ft was what i was thinking of at a 40 degree angle
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ax
Jan 9, 2011, 5:12 AM
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That would work well for system training... (setting up symetrical holds)
It would not work so well if you were trying to set and do actual boulder problems of at least a few moves.
And as for the system training you could get away with 4 x 8 .. .6 x 8 is much better .. and of course with 8 x 8 you could include some training rails hangboards and other stuff.
Adjustable is well worth it .. as long as it's easy to adjust!
I've had several over the years. 
bouldering walls and system walls...
adjustable and static.
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crackmeup
Jan 9, 2011, 5:14 AM
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I have an 8x8. It's useful, you get to practice some (limited) movement, do laps for endurance and keep your fingers strong. If I could I'd make it a bit taller, or mount it a bit higher up on the wall. It's still much better than a hangboard or doing pull-ups.
It can get a bit boring after a while but it's great for a quick workout on a crappy day. It helps if you get creative with your route setting (e.g. lie-down starts, contrived sequences, obligatory holds).
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phang_nga
Jan 9, 2011, 5:21 AM
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You should be able to put yourself in weird positions and try to hold on to small holds. Other than getting bored, I think 8X8 is workable.
Could you put anything on a roof right after that... perhaps some big pinch holds?
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tapostrophemo
Jan 9, 2011, 7:14 AM
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ax wrote: Adjustable is well worth it .. as long as it's easy to adjust!
Chains = easy adjustment. Mine's a 4x8 based on this example - http://synrockholds.com/adjconst.html. That small can be a little boring: 8' is enough for 1/2 vertical moves, but 4' wide is just too narrow to feel like I can work any horizonal-ish movements.
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Tipton
Jan 10, 2011, 9:53 PM
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I've used an 8x8 for several years and just recently added another 8x8 section opposite of it. I just set routes that sit start on one side and traverse there and back. I use colored dots paper stickers for the routes and at a designated 'return' point I make draw a slash with marker on the sticker. The return holds all have the same color sticker, but with a slash. Start on one side and go to the other 'return' point and follow the other set back across. It allows specific routes of 8-10 hand movements.
If you do a 40 definitely add a kick panel and keep in mind that if you can increase the height above 8 feet it will add considerable climbing area. On my 50* 8x8, I can go bottom to top in one move if I start on jugs. If it were just 2 feet taller, it would have much more climbing area. You can almost disregard the bottom 4 feet of the wall because you're so cramped with the floor so any added height at the top is more valuable than added width because it's more usable.
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yodadave
Jan 13, 2011, 1:25 PM
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bump, anyone else with a small board out there?
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anykineclimb
Jan 28, 2011, 8:03 PM
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I've got a 8x12 but mainly use the 8x8 portion as its adjustable (on chains)
pretty much use system style but also do "clock" movements
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tylert222
Mar 6, 2011, 10:51 PM
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I have a 4 x12 wall, i like the hieght but would like it wider. I have to where i can adjust the angle of the wall from straigt up to 70 degress.
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