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Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die?

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Frozen13

Feb 14, 2011, 7:00 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2010
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Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Just saw a Trango Alpine Equalizer for the first time and I don't see how Trango sells that thing. If the sling breaks at any point your going to die, of course you could tie a overhand knot in the center loop but now its not equalizing. And if one of your 3 anchors blows out your gonna move a good few feet.

So am I totally missing something here or is this piece gonna kill you?

tower_climber

Feb 14, 2011, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

It looks solid. I'd hang on it.

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any dynamically equalizing anchor systems that will not fail if the sling/cordalette breaks. Once you have the Alpine Equalizer equalized between the three bolts, tie off the center loop if you're worried that it might break.

Rudmin

Feb 14, 2011, 8:13 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2009
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Re: [tower_climber] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:

tower_climber

Feb 14, 2011, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
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Re: [Rudmin] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I really should learn to think more before I post.

To play devil's advocate, that anchor would still kill you if the sling were to break on the attachment side of the knot.

malcolm777b

Feb 14, 2011, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2009
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Re: [tower_climber] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

It would fail ONLY if it broke twice. Then your single point failure is the attaching biner, rope, or harness.

bearbreeder

Feb 14, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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Re: [malcolm777b] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

malcolm777b wrote:

It would fail ONLY if it broke twice. Then your single point failure is the attaching biner, rope, or harness.

am i missing something... hmmmm

to me it looks like that if any of the upper sling gets cut ... itll just run right through the rings

course a knot could prevent it ... but then its the same with a sliding X as well

erisspirit

Feb 14, 2011, 9:31 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:

malcolm777b wrote:

It would fail ONLY if it broke twice. Then your single point failure is the attaching biner, rope, or harness.

I believe he is referring to the second picture with 2 slings and not the equalizer with the rings in the first picture

wwalt822

Feb 14, 2011, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2010
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Re: [erisspirit] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Has anyone ever had or heard of the leg of an anchor being cut or anything like that? I'm not talking about a piece blowing, I just want to know if the software broke.

moose_droppings

Feb 14, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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Re: [tower_climber] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any dynamically equalizing anchor systems that will not fail if the sling/cordalette breaks.

Actually, there are several of them.

bearbreeder

Feb 14, 2011, 10:34 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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Re: [erisspirit] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

erisspirit wrote:

I believe he is referring to the second picture with 2 slings and not the equalizer with the rings in the first picture

bleh my bad ... all these post and counter posts ... its like a game of sink the battleship ... Crazy

hafilax

Feb 14, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Frozen13 wrote:

It's no different than any other piece of climbing equipment; if you know how to use it appropriately then it's not going to kill you. Think of it like a fancy sliding-x. You can add limiter knots if you're really concerned about extension or redundancy.

whiskeybullets

Feb 14, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocp1EYmjopI

leppy

Feb 15, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2010
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Re: [whiskeybullets] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

well heres the bottom line people. Inspect anything your put your life on on a regular basis whether its a rope, cordolette, sling, or alpine equalizer. end of story.

boadman

Feb 15, 2011, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Frozen13 wrote:

Tie a knot at each piece (top of the loops) and it will still equalize and still be redundant.

moose_droppings

Feb 15, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Re: [boadman] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

boadman wrote:

Tie a knot at each piece (top of the loops) and it will still equalize and still be redundant.

Will knot.

ianwatson

Feb 15, 2011, 9:51 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2010
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Frozen13 wrote:

Just saw

yeah if you saw it, you will for sure die Pirate

In reply to:

TarHeelEMT

Feb 16, 2011, 12:01 AM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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Re: [tower_climber] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:

It looks solid. I'd hang on it.

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any dynamically equalizing anchor systems that will not fail if the sling/cordalette breaks. Once you have the Alpine Equalizer equalized between the three bolts, tie off the center loop if you're worried that it might break.

The sliding x with limiter knots or the equalette will, off the top of my head.

ilikepargo

Feb 16, 2011, 10:38 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2008
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I agree with the OP. That device is equalized, but it is not redundant. If that one main loop breaks, the climber falls.

I would never buy or use that device.

bandycoot

Feb 17, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Re: [Rudmin] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

I'm amused. Rudmin's anchor picture is from the blog my friends and I post on. For a link to the post:

http://pullharder.org/...belay-anchor-setups/

I'm glad people are reading/benefitting.

Josh

maldaly

Feb 17, 2011, 1:00 AM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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Re: [Frozen13] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (10 ratings)	Can't Post

That brings up a great point. I don't know how any of the rope companies would willingly sell a rope that might cut. Hell, it the rope goes, you're gonna die. Period.

To the OP: Read halifax's response and contemplate it very, very carefully. Then read as many back issues of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Try to find an anchor failure where the main anchor member failed or was cut. They almost don't exist. If you want to make climbing safer look at the statistics, find where people are getting hurt, then concentrate your efforts to correct and/or improve on those areas.

Sorry for the snark but this subject is getting old. If you're freaked about extension/redundancy and equalization, then tie a damn master knot in the AE and be happy. Tie clove hitches at each anchor point to accomplish the same thing. It's in the instructions.

Climb safe,
Mal

jbro_135

Feb 17, 2011, 1:35 AM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2009
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Re: [maldaly] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

maldaly wrote:

If the single biner on the masterpoint of the anchor Rudmin posted breaks YER GONNA DIE!!~!

no_email_entered

Feb 17, 2011, 2:07 AM
Post #22 of 29 (14873 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2008
Posts: 558

Re: [maldaly] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (3 ratings)	Can't Post

oh kids these days and their limited attentions spans---

---the OP needs to go to http://www.paradoxsports.org/ and buy a tshirt or something as an apology for his witlessness

---props to Mal

carabiner96

Feb 17, 2011, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [maldaly] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

maldaly wrote:

Being too many glasses of wine to research, I'd also reckon that anchor failures such as that also had some serious external forces going on that had it been the most equalized anchor on earth, you still would have been fecked.

Buy a Paradox t-shirt, and carry on.

no_email_entered

Feb 17, 2011, 2:47 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2008
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Re: [carabiner96] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

how much wine does it take to climb topless on ice tho?

carabiner96

Feb 17, 2011, 3:06 AM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610

Re: [no_email_entered] Trango Alpine Equalizer, Your going to Die? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

no_email_entered wrote:

how much wine does it take to climb topless on ice tho?

It was Jim Beam, that.

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