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b3n
Feb 16, 2011, 9:52 AM
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Hi climbers
As this section would suggest, I'm a beginner. I've done a very small amount of seconding on easy sport routes, and summited Mt Blanc with a guide a couple of years ago. What I'm really interested in is 'big mountain' adventure and climbing in the greater ranges (especially in Asia, where I've done a decent bit of trekking). My question is - how to get there (skills-wise)?
I was planning to get started with sport and trad climbing to build ropework skills etc (and for the fun, of course) then head to the alps or similar for a season or two before taking off for the east. Does this sound reasonable? Any other advice for someone with big dreams and small skills? 
Thanks
Ben
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sungam
Feb 16, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Where are you based?
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mikebee
Feb 16, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Hi Ben,
Overall the plan sounds pretty good.
I tend to think of mountaineering as a combination between hiking/bushwalking/backpacking/tramping (depending on which country you come from) and trad climbing. There's a few extra specialist skills involved like glacier travel, ice climbing and generally surviving in cold, adverse conditions, but if you have you hiking and trad skills up to scratch, thats the best foundation you'll get I think.
I'd make a point of getting into some trad climbing pretty soon, and doing a lot of it. The more you do, the sooner the rope handling skills will become instinctive. It doesn't even need to be at a high grade. Aim to cover as many metres as you can. First, emphasise getting things right. Once you do things right, then focus on doing things fast, but still doing them right.
Do some hiking too, especially if you haven't done much of it. There are some skills that can be practiced and learned (eg moving over scree, navigation, figuring out how to pack light etc), but the other thing that doing lots of hiking achieves is gets you used to moving for long periods with a pack on. I've often found that at the end of a long day I'm in a better state than someone else who is much fitter than me, simply because I'm used to it, and they aren't.
If you don't have easy access to mountains, trad climbing and hiking will be the best things you can do to develop the skills you'll need.
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b3n
Feb 16, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Thanks guys
I'm currently in Asia but will be based somewhere in Austalia for the next 18 months or so (not sure exactly where at this point). Not too many big hills around unfortunately! Point taken re the combination of hiking and climbing though, I'll keep that in mind.
I've done a decent amount of trekking over the last 10 years or so but not regularly, so I wouldn't say I'm 'hill fit' right now... something I plan to work on though for sure :-)
Ben
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TarHeelEMT
Feb 16, 2011, 1:55 PM
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b3n wrote: Thanks guys I'm currently in Asia but will be based somewhere in Austalia for the next 18 months or so (not sure exactly where at this point). Not too many big hills around unfortunately! Point taken re the combination of hiking and climbing though, I'll keep that in mind. I've done a decent amount of trekking over the last 10 years or so but not regularly, so I wouldn't say I'm 'hill fit' right now... something I plan to work on though for sure :-) Ben
Traditional rock climbing is a foundational skill for mountaineering. 10 years ago when I first started climbing, I had similar grand notions and tried to skip the rock climbing portion, which ended up being a mistake, as I ended up blowing all my money learning stuff about glacier travel that I couldn't practice and apply back home. I would say to start with trad, then push into some alpine rock climbs without an ice/snow component, and then find a way to learn the ice/snow component.
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guangzhou
Feb 17, 2011, 12:24 AM
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b3n wrote: Thanks guys I'm currently in Asia but will be based somewhere in Austalia for the next 18 months or so (not sure exactly where at this point). Not too many big hills around unfortunately! Point taken re the combination of hiking and climbing though, I'll keep that in mind. I've done a decent amount of trekking over the last 10 years or so but not regularly, so I wouldn't say I'm 'hill fit' right now... something I plan to work on though for sure :-) Ben
Where in Asia?
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kachoong
Feb 17, 2011, 2:09 AM
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b3n wrote: Thanks guys I'm currently in Asia but will be based somewhere in Austalia for the next 18 months or so (not sure exactly where at this point). Not too many big hills around unfortunately! Point taken re the combination of hiking and climbing though, I'll keep that in mind. I've done a decent amount of trekking over the last 10 years or so but not regularly, so I wouldn't say I'm 'hill fit' right now... something I plan to work on though for sure :-) Ben
There are a lot of good mountaineers/alpinists from Aus. Obviously Aus is relatively topographically challenged but you can't underestimate the amount of good preparation that you can achieve by living there. Tons of great multipitch trad areas to hone your skills, plenty of hiking and scenic areas to enhance your fitness.
However, you may want to think about finding the time and extra money for a trip to the Sth Island of New Zealand and take a guided alpine skills course for 7 days or so. You'll learn glacial travel, basic rescue, avalache safety and increase your mountain awareness.
In 18 months you should be able to build up quite a foundation. First you'll want to find a good mentor or group who you can follow and learn the "ropes" so to speak. Hopefully you'll base yourself in a major climbing center like the Blue Mountains and go from there.
Good luck!
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b3n
Feb 17, 2011, 6:00 AM
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Oh yeah, I was a bit vague as I'm travelling aroun. Currently in Vietnam.
Thanks for all the advice everyone, appreciate it and will take it on board!
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guangzhou
Feb 17, 2011, 6:09 AM
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Plenty of not to hard to access mountaineering in China. Vietnam, Loas, Cambodia, Malaysia, and Indonesia would be ab good place to build solid climbing skills on rock.
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b3n
Feb 21, 2011, 9:51 AM
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Yeah I'll try to base myself somewhere useful, for sure.
Sort of a follow-up question and maybe getting a bit ahead of myself, but would it be considered reasonable for someone with say, a single alpine season (on rock and mixed routes) to be heading into the greater ranges independently?
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sungam
Feb 21, 2011, 10:47 AM
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b3n wrote: Yeah I'll try to base myself somewhere useful, for sure. Sort of a follow-up question and maybe getting a bit ahead of myself, but would it be considered reasonable for someone with say, a single alpine season (on rock and mixed routes) to be heading into the greater ranges independently?
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ddooddodo
Feb 21, 2011, 10:27 PM
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for starters if you haven't already pickup a copy of freedom of the hills do so. Work a lot of 4th class and easy- moderate (5.0-5.10) 5th class. Also do some smaller summits.
good luck
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b3n
Feb 23, 2011, 12:20 PM
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I'll look for it, thanks.
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rangerrob
Feb 23, 2011, 9:43 PM
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One thing no one has brought up about climbing in the greater ranges. You'll need a good job to afford all these trips you want to take. Of course that takes time away from actually climbing, so it is sort of a fundamental paradox, unless of course you are a trust fund baby.
Don't let anyone tell you you can't do something becuse you only have X years experience. Plenty of world class alpinists just did it, and figured it out along the way. All you really need to do is learn how to move safely in a mountain environment...that is glacier travel, hazard assessment (seracs, cornices, slope loading). If you know this, then you can climb some pretty freaking big mountains without necessarily being able to rock climb or ice climb at a high level.
You can take all the classes in the world, and hire as many guides as you can afford, but in the end, you won't really know what you can do until you do it.
I'm not the most experienced, but I've climbed in a couple of the greater ranges. The hardest part is getting there, staying healthy, and hitting the right weather window. If you do all that, you will probably summit something.
oh, and move out of Thailand dude!
RR
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