Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch"
This is the movieof her working the route:
link: http://vimeo.com/4779035

One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha"
http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg
http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg

I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top"

Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one.

Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch"
This is the movieof her working the route:
link: http://vimeo.com/4779035

One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha"
http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg
http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg

I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top"

Naw, really I'm just telling it like it is. Pushing kids at a young age too hard in a sport that is tendon intensive will have bad reprocussions. Just look at Cicada Jenerik. She's got mad tendonitis already.

Naw, really I'm just telling it like it is. Pushing kids at a young age too hard in a sport that is tendon intensive will have bad repercussions. Just look at Cicada Jenerik. She's got mad tendinitis already.

Although I have no scientific evidence about it, it just seems logical that it will set in quicker and be more extreme if established during the developing/growing stages of life. You're probably right that route climbing as opposed to bouldering will have less of an effect, though I'm sure there still will be something.

Climbing and growth
In one study of 90 male and female junior competition climbers, whose average age was 13.5 (a
range of 10.5 to 16.5 years), the climbers were found to be at or below the 50th centile on growth
velocity charts when measured for height, weight and amount of body fat. Even when these
climbers were compared to athletic control subjects of identical age and gender, they were still
found to be shorter, leaner and have less body fat. What was not clear was whether these
competitive climbers were simply that size and shape because of selection in the first place, or
from inappropriate training and dietary habits.

Body fat
The effects of high intensity training and inadequate nutrition in a lean athlete can delay their
pubertal growth spurt and sexual maturation, or in severe cases, ensure that it doesn’t occur
properly. Predictable hormonal changes that trigger pubertal developmental and growth cannot
fully take place in an adolescent without enough body fat. It’s well known that in sports in which a
www.uiaa.ch
thin body is thought to be advantageous, that there is a high risk of developing the ‘female
athletic triad’. This triad is characterised by menstrual cycle abnormalities, eating disorders, and
premature osteoporosis (brittle bone). Excessively lean males will not produce enough
testosterone essential for strength and health among other problems.
Load bearing sports like climbing promote strong bone growth, which is good. However, too little
body fat is independently associated with reduced bone growth and stress fractures, especially in
females. There are no charts stating how much body fat a growing youngster should have, but
regularly plotting their height and weight on growth charts will show how they compare with
normal developmental growth. In adults we know that the minimum amount of body fat
compatible with health is 12% in females, and 5% in males.

Caldwell, Katie Brown and Sharma seem to be doing quite well these days.

Sounds to me like someone here is making excuses for not pushing themselves more. I remember people commenting on Sharma's lack of footwork when he first came on the scene. I think I even read he wouldn't climb beyond his eighteen birthday because he body would be to beat-up from all the dynamic moves.

Is climbing hard on the body, yes. According to a report by the UIAAA named growing pains:


More research needed. Investigate proper nutrition.




Low body fat, not good. Also true on babies by the way.

I'll find the link to the whole thing later.

Looking at the video, this just looks like a girl doing what she enjoys. I sure her parents support her, but I am not convince they force her to climb hard.

In this case, the route is hard, but it's not a campus fest, and she's using her feet quite well.

Again, I think someone here is just upset that they are being outperformed by a little girl. Me, I'm impressed, this gives me a slight window into where the sport is headed.

That girl is amazing and that video was great to watch.

As far as Cicada Jenerik goes the only video I have ever seen of her just showed her doing some pretty extreme stuff on a campus board at a very young age. They pulled the video down but I am willing to bet that is why she is experiencing tendon issues today. I hope she makes it back on top one day. She is still a great climber.

Who said she has tendon issues?

Jooler.

Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one.

yeah, she's gonna suck like Ondra does now.