|
Guilherme
Mar 6, 2011, 4:12 PM
Post #1 of 17
(11440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2011
Posts: 3
|
Hi,
somebody already tried it? If so,
which rope did u use?
did it feed smoothly? Better than the Silent Partner? Better than the old gri?
Did you fall? How did it catch?
Thank you very much in advance!
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Mar 6, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #2 of 17
(11393 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
Its called Rope Soloing.
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Mar 6, 2011, 5:36 PM
Post #3 of 17
(11382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
Damnit Coastal you beat me to it!
I've never rope soloed with a device. It's always been with the poor man's option...a clove hitch on the harness.
RR
|
|
|
|
|
Vegasclimber10
Mar 6, 2011, 9:40 PM
Post #4 of 17
(11306 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 188
|
Here is a direct quote from the Grigri page on the Petzl website:
Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited. Wed, 09/02/2011 - 15:48 — community_manager
Hello,
In reply to: We cannot ignore the fact that some people use the GRIGRI as a self-belay device. Many internet sites give tips on modifying your device for this use. Above all, this technique increases the risks to the climber. Firstly, the climber does not hold the braking side of the rope. Additionally, in case of a fall, the GRIGRI can be blocked against the rock, the positioning system (positioning strap), or other, thus negating its braking function. The climber could fall to the ground. Finally, remember that any product modification outside of PETZL facilities is formally prohibited (see Instructions for use). Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited. Please also download the grigri experience document http://www.petzl.com/files/all/product-experience/SPORT/GRIGRI2/PE_D14-G... reply Permalink
The actual page can be found here:
http://petzl.com/...ice-assisted-braking
So...
I personally would stick with a device actually designed for what you are doing. For the post flamethrower specialists, let me make clear, that is my PERSONAL OPINION and you may or may not agree with it.
In the end, it's your decision as to which device suits you better.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Mar 7, 2011, 1:26 AM
Post #5 of 17
(11248 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
It's functionally the same deal as the grigri albeit probably with slightly different feed and lockoff characteristics. Lot's of us have roped-soloed with a grigri in the past (and some probably still do). It's not the most convenient device in the world for doing it, but it does work. Some find other devices, both general and purpose-built, work as well or better. I personally use an Eddy, YMMV.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Mar 7, 2011, 1:30 AM
Post #6 of 17
(11244 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
I heard it feeds shitty on thicker ropes for soloing.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Mar 7, 2011, 7:43 AM
Post #7 of 17
(11184 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
the more experienced folks i know who use the grigri with the mod had a look at mine and are pretty sure it can also be modded to work for rope soloing.
in my experience, it feeds choppy with the fatty ropes we use for re-bolting, but im mostly traversing between anchors and the like, not really rope-soloing for real. im not sure id want to lead out on it, though- just doesnt feel like it wants to do that.
edit: @vegasclimber10- manufacturers design devices for a particular use and have to shield themselves from any liability when some idiot climber kills themselves using the device incorrectly- but this doesnt in and of itself mean the device is unsafe to use in other ways so long as the user understands the device, its limitations, and accepts the risks involved.
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Mar 7, 2011, 7:47 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
Vegasclimber10
Mar 7, 2011, 10:50 PM
Post #8 of 17
(11101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 188
|
J, I know why they do and say what they do. I spent 15 years working in skydiving and it's even worse there. I don't need to be instructed in manufacturer liability issues.
And once again - my PERSONAL opinion is that if I am going to rope solo I will use a device specifically designed for that purpose. I understand that the Petzl device is useable in other ways and I didn't say that it is unsafe to use if you know the proper methods of using the device. I shouldn't have to spell all this out, but just about every time I post on here you seem to want to negate what I say or disagree with me, which I don't understand. I have to a right to post both my personal opinion, and a right to share the information that Petzl provides.
I was posting the official information so that the OP could use that information as part of his decision making process, and add to that my personal opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Mar 7, 2011, 11:01 PM
Post #9 of 17
(11089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
i wasn't negating or even disagreeing, just pointing out something you neglected to mention which i believe to be pertinent to the conversation.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Mar 7, 2011, 11:48 PM
Post #10 of 17
(11078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Vegasclimber10 wrote: And once again - my PERSONAL opinion is that if I am going to rope solo I will use a device specifically designed for that purpose. I understand that the Petzl device is useable in other ways and I didn't say that it is unsafe to use if you know the proper methods of using the device. I shouldn't have to spell all this out, but just about every time I post on here you seem to want to negate what I say or disagree with me, which I don't understand. I have to a right to post both my personal opinion, and a right to share the information that Petzl provides.
Possibly because you seem to post pretty strong opinions for someone who appears to have limited climbing experience.
|
|
|
|
|
Vegasclimber10
Mar 8, 2011, 5:02 AM
Post #11 of 17
(11044 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 188
|
Well, for what it's worth heal,
I tried using my grigri for rope soloing. I had issues with a 10.2 being hard to feed, even when utilizing a rope bag.
I tried a 9.7 that fed better, but my concern was my arm or something else possibly depressing the handle or cam in a fall.
I looked at some suggestions, including setting it up with a chest harness with a swaged loop in the plastic and/or modding the handle, and what it came down to is that I wasn't comfortable modifying a device that wasn't designed for what I was using it for. I know this can be limiting, but I have seen a lot of bad results in my other sport from modifying gear.
From looking at the Eddy (I haven't been able to use it yet) it looks to be superior to the GriGri for rope soloing. The Silent Partner has been suggested to me but I have seen people complain about it not catching as fast as it should. I haven't used the device though so I don't know if that is the device or incorrect use.
As I usually do when I am unsure about a device I am using or a system I want to utilize, I reach out to those who are much more experienced then I am. Some of them use the GriGri, but most suggested that unless I wanted to mod the device, I should use the Partner.
Being as I haven't been focused on soloing for a bit, I haven't looked into purchasing a Partner yet. You ended up choosing the Eddy and have used it to great success, I know. Have you used the Partner at all?
|
|
|
|
|
michael1245
Mar 8, 2011, 4:02 PM
Post #12 of 17
(10964 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 247
|
rangerrob wrote: Damnit Coastal you beat me to it! I've never rope soloed with a device. It's always been with the poor man's option...a clove hitch on the harness. RR
how about a gri gri, and a clove hitch?
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Mar 8, 2011, 7:29 PM
Post #13 of 17
(10928 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
michael1245 wrote: rangerrob wrote: Damnit Coastal you beat me to it! I've never rope soloed with a device. It's always been with the poor man's option...a clove hitch on the harness. RR how about a gri gri, and a clove hitch?
You can do that. I usually use a figure 8 on a bight, as its a little better for peace of mind that it hasn't loosened.
|
|
|
|
|
Guilherme
Mar 13, 2011, 5:54 PM
Post #14 of 17
(10773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2011
Posts: 3
|
I want to thank you all for the insights I had reading you. I think it's the ultimate reason we are all here, to learn, right?
Thanks again,
Guilherme
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Apr 22, 2011, 4:09 AM
Post #15 of 17
(10225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
If you're going to rope solo--especially on lead--get a Soloist. I'm a big fan of the grigri but not for a self-belay.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Apr 22, 2011, 6:11 AM
Post #16 of 17
(10206 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
potreroed wrote: If you're going to rope solo--especially on lead--get a Soloist. I'm a big fan of the grigri but not for a self-belay.
Everyone has to figure out what works for them. I dislike the Soloist - others love it. Ditto the Silent Parnter. Everyone has to find their own way in this regard if you're going to rope solo.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Apr 22, 2011, 3:29 PM
Post #17 of 17
(10163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
healyje wrote: Everyone has to figure out what works for them. I dislike the Soloist - others love it. Ditto the Silent Parnter. Everyone has to find their own way in this regard if you're going to rope solo.
Not me. I found just copying Healyjes Eddy method for leading solo works good enough. Basically I hate it less than everything else, and I own most those devices. Steve Schneider soloed the nose in a day with the Silent Partner...I don't know how this occurred. Dude is superhuman.
For toproping, I've done or tried most of it - even shown up at a cliff and having a partner cancel just doubled the climbing rope and looped knots in one side of the rope, tossed it over -rapped the straight line and clipped the loops on the other side on the way up. The Eddy sucks more than this for TR but you can make it work.
They all suck so much compared to the movement and joy of free (unroped) soloing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
