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philap
Apr 11, 2011, 2:05 AM
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My limiting factor currently seems to be not the climbing but more the clipping.
I often feel too pumped to clip, and since it's not like something you can afford to screw up normally I end up backing off.
As much as I can I try to find good stances or body positions to clip from, attempt to waist clip as an alternative when possible and so on. On harder routes though, often the positions are just demanding to let go and clip from.
I think I could improve by making my clipping even faster, I am slower when the gate is not on my thumb side.
I think the increased hand strength required to just dangle off one arm, is maybe another issue. It's more my hand peeling off, than a forearm issue or anything seems like.
meh any suggestions for this, it's really frustrating since it's not the climbing itself that's stopping me.
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kobaz
Apr 11, 2011, 2:43 AM
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philap wrote: My limiting factor currently seems to be not the climbing but more the clipping. I often feel too pumped to clip, and since it's not like something you can afford to screw up normally I end up backing off. As much as I can I try to find good stances or body positions to clip from, attempt to waist clip as an alternative when possible and so on. On harder routes though, often the positions are just demanding to let go and clip from. I think I could improve by making my clipping even faster, I am slower when the gate is not on my thumb side. I think the increased hand strength required to just dangle off one arm, is maybe another issue. It's more my hand peeling off, than a forearm issue or anything seems like. meh any suggestions for this, it's really frustrating since it's not the climbing itself that's stopping me.
It's more about endurance than hand strength. Strength will get you to pull harder moves, but endurance will help you keep doing the moves.
If your tendons are up for it, train endurance. I try to do the following workout at least once a week.
Find a spot on the wall at the gym that has a nice variety of holds for both hands and feet. Start a timer. I usually do sets of 10 minutes, but your mileage may vary depending on the types of holds you're using and your overall conditioning.
Do three separate sets of movements per set: Hold on with two hands on some relatively crappy holds just move your feet around, concentrate on good footwork and good balance. Next, switch to moving just your hands around keeping your feet planted on some holds. Try and find the best position that is the least strain for every hold you can reach. And then finally find a really terrible hold and hold on with one hand for how ever long you can stand it. Switch hands, use the same hold with the other hand.
Rinse and repeat.
There's tons of things to do to work on endurance, find something you like to do and do it. Lead laps below your limit... push yourself to failure. Take rest days to ensure proper recovery and muscle/tendon building.
If you're leading at your absolute limit, there's not much you can do to avoid the eventual pump -- you are climbing at your limit after all.
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Kstenson
Apr 11, 2011, 3:26 AM
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Agreed, when I first started leading clipping killed me as well.
You just have to attack it from two sides, your clipping technique and your endurance.
For technique climb easy (for you) routes and put yourself in awkward positions to build up your clipping technique and confidence. Best results will come from repetitive, drill like ascents.
For endurance the post above gives excellent advice, I found that finishing of a session by traversing till death gave really quick improvements.
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lena_chita
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Apr 11, 2011, 12:26 PM
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philap wrote: My limiting factor currently seems to be not the climbing but more the clipping. I often feel too pumped to clip, and since it's not like something you can afford to screw up normally I end up backing off. As much as I can I try to find good stances or body positions to clip from, attempt to waist clip as an alternative when possible and so on. On harder routes though, often the positions are just demanding to let go and clip from. I think I could improve by making my clipping even faster, I am slower when the gate is not on my thumb side. I think the increased hand strength required to just dangle off one arm, is maybe another issue. It's more my hand peeling off, than a forearm issue or anything seems like. meh any suggestions for this, it's really frustrating since it's not the climbing itself that's stopping me.
What you are describing is fairly typical for a new leader. As far as suggestions: practice.
Practice clipping with either hand, with the draw hanging with gate either facing you, or facing out.
Practice by traversing or climbing up/down and shaking out one hand, then another, switching hands on a hold, etc.
Practice climbing efficiently, so you are not over-gripping, expending your arm/finger strength. You need to develop better climbing technique in general, and that would go a long way towards finding a good body position to clip from.
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shotwell
Apr 11, 2011, 1:06 PM
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A couple of clipping tips that might help as well.
Learn to rest effectively. Relax, find two good holds, and shake. You really need to relax. I can almost guarantee you're over-gripping right now.
So if you're super pumped and ready to clip you can shake, hang your draw, and shake out your hand again. Since you haven't pulled the rope yet, you're still in a safe position. Make sure your partner knows not to throw you slack until you're pulling rope up. Stay relaxed, rest a tiny bit, then clip the draw.
Your biggest problem is probably that you're nervous above your last bolt. You just need to relax and realize you can fall. While I wouldn't want to be blowing clips, relaxing while you're on the way (and clipping) will make it far less likely that it will happen.
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jammer
Apr 11, 2011, 2:40 PM
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Being pumped may also be the result of over gripping your holds as you climb. You don't state what kind of climbing you are finding yourself pumped on, so there is not much advice I can give besides trying to focus on how you use the strength you have. If you death grip your holds, you are pumped faster. I keep in mind that my holds are there to just hold my center of balance over my feet. Try noticing if you can use less hand strength to accomplish your climbs.
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Nold
Apr 11, 2011, 3:27 PM
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Get someone who leads often at your gym to show you how to clip. With the draw hanging in both directions. Find out what works best for you. hang a draw from the rear view mirror and clip a rope at stoplights/ traffic. Practice practice. You should be able to clip those bad boys with your eyes closed.
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shotwell
Apr 11, 2011, 3:29 PM
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Nold wrote: Get someone who leads often at your gym to show you how to clip. With the draw hanging in both directions. Find out what works best for you. hang a draw from the rear view mirror and clip a rope at stoplights/ traffic. Practice practice. You should be able to clip those bad boys with your eyes closed.
Hopefully not in traffic! 
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ENARE
Apr 11, 2011, 6:16 PM
Post #9 of 16
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kobaz wrote: philap wrote: My limiting factor currently seems to be not the climbing but more the clipping. I often feel too pumped to clip, and since it's not like something you can afford to screw up normally I end up backing off. As much as I can I try to find good stances or body positions to clip from, attempt to waist clip as an alternative when possible and so on. On harder routes though, often the positions are just demanding to let go and clip from. I think I could improve by making my clipping even faster, I am slower when the gate is not on my thumb side. I think the increased hand strength required to just dangle off one arm, is maybe another issue. It's more my hand peeling off, than a forearm issue or anything seems like. meh any suggestions for this, it's really frustrating since it's not the climbing itself that's stopping me. It's more about endurance than hand strength. Strength will get you to pull harder moves, but endurance will help you keep doing the moves. If your tendons are up for it, train endurance. I try to do the following workout at least once a week. Find a spot on the wall at the gym that has a nice variety of holds for both hands and feet. Start a timer. I usually do sets of 10 minutes, but your mileage may vary depending on the types of holds you're using and your overall conditioning. Do three separate sets of movements per set: Hold on with two hands on some relatively crappy holds just move your feet around, concentrate on good footwork and good balance. Next, switch to moving just your hands around keeping your feet planted on some holds. Try and find the best position that is the least strain for every hold you can reach. And then finally find a really terrible hold and hold on with one hand for how ever long you can stand it. Switch hands, use the same hold with the other hand. Rinse and repeat. There's tons of things to do to work on endurance, find something you like to do and do it. Lead laps below your limit... push yourself to failure. Take rest days to ensure proper recovery and muscle/tendon building. If you're leading at your absolute limit, there's not much you can do to avoid the eventual pump -- you are climbing at your limit after all.
Great post. I have also been running into similar problems and have been considering the different ways I could train my endurance.
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silascl
Apr 11, 2011, 6:47 PM
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Are you climbing in the gym or outdoors. You can do this either way, but it'll be more convenient in the gym.
Top rope the climb, and trail a rope and clip with it. See how solid clipping feels when there's no risk of blowing the clip and having a bad fall. I find that I overgrip and psyche myself out when at a clipping stance that is not really great, especially when it comes to open handed holds.
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j_ung
Apr 11, 2011, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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I don't think there's any bad advice upthread, but here's something that will help you NOW, with no training. Let's say you're about to clip with your right hand. Grab a hold instead and shake the left for a bit. Get some gas back in there. Now grab a hold with your fresh left hand and clip with the right. That's saved my bacon a few times.
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flint
Apr 11, 2011, 8:56 PM
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clip at your waist. probably a better position and holds available
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robx
Apr 18, 2011, 1:19 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2011
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hang a qd in your car and practice in the car. I'm sure someone is going to say it's unsafe, and it is, but it's a hell of a lot easier to clip a few hundred times on your way to and from the gym than it is in the gym.
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Diphthong
Apr 19, 2011, 8:30 PM
Post #15 of 16
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flint wrote: clip at your waist. probably a better position and holds available
Nonsense. As Jung says below, you clip from the best stance/hold; which anecdotally I find to be at the head level as much if not more than at the waist. And if the fall is clean, which it often is in Sport Climbing, it doesn't matter if you fall while clipping at your waist or above your head.
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EuroFreeBase
Jun 11, 2011, 4:21 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Jun 11, 2011
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just do a dynamic clip! pull rope first and attach it to a draw. make a large dynamic move to the hanger and slip it. Stick it!
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