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kcrag
Oct 7, 2002, 4:53 PM
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Leading is a love/hate relationship. It definitely changes the rules of the game. Still learning to lead trad... and it's a thrill I wouldn't trade for anything!
[ This Message was edited by: kcrag on 2002-10-13 10:57 ]
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yami
Oct 11, 2002, 4:03 PM
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I'm pretty new to climbing and so far really enjoy leading sport routes. My first lead was in Penitente, CO on "Ordinary People". Only two bolts so needless to say it was pretty runout. Although, at the time I didn't really realize the significance of the runout. Luckily I onsighted it. My biggest problem is preventing rope burns. So far I haven't had any really bad ones but just little guys that sting pretty bad for at least a week after. I've had six rope burns so far. I know to keep my legs and arms away from the rope and on the outside but it gets me almost everytime. Obviously, I'm not afraid of falling which may be part of my problem.
[ This Message was edited by: yami on 2002-10-11 09:14 ]
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bighigaz
Oct 15, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Erica, all I can say is, TAKE THE FALL! When I'm at a crux or making a hard clip, I just say it to my self over and over ("take the fall, chicken, what are you waiting for, FALL..." and so on), as if it doesn't matter or like I don't care (even though I may be lying). By some miracle I seem to make it through some of the time. And when I don't, I just take a quick glance at my feet... and let it fly. I think telling yourself you're willing to take the fall makes it a lot less intimidating... Hey, come climb the Lemmon some time, I'll show you around, and help you take some great falls!!
James.
[ This Message was edited by: bighigaz on 2002-10-15 13:07 ]
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climberchic
Oct 16, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Hahahaa...thanks James!
I know what I need to do and lilred is right. I just need to do it and then it won't be so bad. Thanks for the support!
~Erica
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ecocliffchick
Oct 16, 2002, 4:06 PM
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How do you fall and not get hurt? Most of the rock where I climb is vertical with quite a few large ledges, and I never want to "take the fall" because I don't want to whack myself into the rock or onto a ledge. Indoors, or on overhanging rock, I can see letting go and just falling, but when the terrain is vertical, there's no way I want to be falling.
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missedyno
Oct 17, 2002, 4:57 PM
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fall and not get hurt? are there any gyms around you that offer lead courses? that's the best thing, instead of someone trying to describe....
don't be afraid of slack. if you don't have slack, then there is a chance that you could get yanked into the wall. that's happened to me before from a potentially crappy belayer.
anyway, my big announcement:
in rumney this weekend i did my first outdoor lead send! i don't really care about the send, redpoint, onsight bla bla bla terminology.... but nevermind how other people describe it, all i know is that i lead outdoors with confidence. i was happy.
i am happy. i'm proud.
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rockwomyn
Oct 17, 2002, 8:51 PM
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Go Fawkes go....it's only up from here!!! We know you got the skills and the muscles, too!
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ecocliffchick
Oct 18, 2002, 2:11 PM
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Unfortunately, there really isn't much in the way of leading indoors at the gym in Guelph. We pretty much boulder two thirds of the way up the walls, and the routes definately aren't set up for leading - too many very small and greasy holds, that wouldn't allow for clipping. I did lead at Planet Rock in Michigan last weekend, and felt fine. I guess it really depends on the terrain. If I'm outside and the rock is overhung and there are lots of bolts, without runouts, I've got no problem - it's these run out vertical things that scare the $h!t out of me - and well, in Ontario -that's what you get (except at White Bluff).
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russmanswife
Oct 22, 2002, 8:14 PM
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i just started leading and i like it much better even though i have only done two easy 5.6 i want to try more. i really really want to try longer routes the ones i did were basically short three bolts and an anchor so i want to just test myself and see if i can go longer. guess now that i know i want to do it i have to fight with russ about who gets to lead what.
bobbi
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missedyno
Oct 22, 2002, 9:43 PM
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ha ha, very cool.
damian has no problem leading and it's very easy for me to back down and say "yeah okay you lead this one" because i know the chances are he'll do it no problem and i'll sit and hum and haw. but usually once i get up there i surprise myself and do okay.
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sroehlk
Dec 19, 2002, 11:26 PM
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It took a little mental boost to make my first intentional lead fall (in the gym) - it's all mental for me. Since then I've had a few falls that shook me. Right now I've been climbing in my safety zone and keep pushing it a little more each day.
[ This Message was edited by: sroehlk on 2002-12-20 07:16 ]
[ This Message was edited by: sroehlk on 2002-12-20 11:51 ]
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stellalpina
Dec 20, 2002, 5:53 PM
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im pretty new to the sport, so ive only had one opportunity to lead. it my insanely limited experience, all i can say is that i want to do it more! (damn the snow ) i loved the sense of adventure, and having to figure the route out, instead of following someone elses chalk marks. some of you have said that classes mess with your head, so are they worth it? or is it better to learn as you go while climbing with friends?
-- elena
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sroehlk
Dec 20, 2002, 8:04 PM
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If you have a friend who is an amazing lead climber and willing to teach you EVERYTHING you need to know - go for it. I'm lucky enough to work part time at a climbing gym with a great group of climbers. When I wanted to learn I just asked one of the guys who teaches lead lessons. Worked out pretty well for me
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climber1
Dec 21, 2002, 2:47 AM
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ladies. just wanted to pass this on. I feel like leading makes one a better climber (at least for me) leading demands more concentration than following. to get comfortable leading, just go out and lead climbs that are 2 or 3 levels below what you tr or follow. just my .02 cents
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squashed_spider
Dec 21, 2002, 2:51 AM
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i find that i climb better when i'm on the sharp end! i have to concentrate more and it makes my climbing better, but that's just me. i think it just depends on who you are.
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rosemom3
Dec 21, 2002, 5:36 AM
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I just started leading a few months ago after all of my male climbing buddies kept pushing it. Now I know why, it's quite the rush. However, it has diminished my perception of my climbing performance on TR. Also my performance period, I'm less comfortable. I will say that I would like the opportunity to lead a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8, but there are so few around here that I'm leading 5.9 uncomfortably and french freeing my way through the cruxes on 5.10's. The thing I really like about leading (trad)is the extra mental challenge of placing gear. I love my tri-cams so much!!!!! And have developed this weird propensity for hand size cams. Has this happened to anyone else? Tracy Renee
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figure08
Dec 24, 2002, 5:32 AM
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I like leading better than TRing. I've only done it a couple times, but I think I climb better when on lead because I have to focus more, and such a rush! I feel so awesome when I get to the top.
On the other hand, I don't really like bouldering (well, highballing) that much because I broke my foot a couple years ago doing it. I also get way more scared cleaning the same climb than leading it. Weird hu?
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ecocliffchick
Dec 31, 2002, 2:14 AM
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To those of you who regularly lead outdoors, do you find yourselves getting injured more now that you're leading and have you had any scary experiences?
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ximiana
Dec 31, 2002, 6:54 AM
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Yes i like but at the same time i have fear...much much fear, but is and incredible sensation.
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swohletz
Jan 3, 2003, 12:25 PM
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I love leading...after my first lead I was hooked I especially love the mental aspect of it, fighting the fear and remaining calm in the midst of it....even enjoying it. The adrenaline is a huge plus as well
As for injuries, I haven't been leading for all so long but it seems to depend on the route what the potential for injury is--falling off an overhang could mean slamming hard into the rock vs a fall on a vertical wall which is pretty benign in my experience. I only lead climb with belayers I trust A LOT, which hopefully leads to prevention of injury. Lead climbing is higher risk (thus the extra adrenaline) which means more potential for injury. However, if I weigh my abilities wisely against the grade of a climb, leading a few points below my confident TR climbing level, and make sure I am climbing safely with a safe belayer, then my potential to get hurt will hopefully drop. As always in climbing, anything can happen.....climb on
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swohletz
Jan 3, 2003, 12:27 PM
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Oh side note....as for scary experiences....lead belaying with a grigri in the gym last weekend was about the scariest thing I've ever done....solidifying my tendency to only belay with an ATC. It was super sketchy.
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rockrat17
Jan 3, 2003, 6:41 PM
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leading is fun....but scary. I like it, but
i've had my own share of scary falls etc.
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pals
Jan 13, 2003, 11:54 AM
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I like to lead.
Leading is Scary, yet fun.
I'm nearly fearless except on scree
I need to get more experience with it.
especially with doing on scree I go very slow but feel I can get much better with practice and confidence.
From what little leading I've done... I love it.
Not afraid of falling.
pals
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ecocliffchick
Jan 13, 2003, 3:04 PM
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Why were you afraid of lead belaying with a Gri gri? I find using the gri gri is a bit trickier the first day or two - but in the long run (especially if your partner is much heavier than you and working a route) it is so much easier and more reliable.
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aimeerose
Feb 4, 2003, 4:38 AM
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I too love to lead, and I'm glad to see so many other women do too. I was feeling hopeless at the beginning of these posts! I usually hang the draws when my husband and I are out climbing. Of course, he'll hang them for me on my projects if I want him too. It is so much more rewarding to me to onsight something if I'm leading it or redpoint it on lead. It's all a matter of controlling your mind, especially with redpointing. I can have a route so wired and still screw up if I'm leading, so just keeping it together until the anchors is rewarding.
I also lead on gear. I just did Crimson Chrysallis a few weekends back and led the crux pitches. I was psyched!
I'm not looking forward to getting pregnant and not being able to lead for months. Leading is integral to climbing for me. It's nice to be self-sufficient too. I never have to rely on anyone else when I go climbing and I can take my less experienced friends out and set up climbs for them.
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