|
majid_sabet
Apr 25, 2011, 5:27 PM
Post #1 of 21
(3775 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
I recently review a bunch accident reports but one report got my attention and this is where two climbers completely missed to check their rap setup and during rappelling, one of the experience climber fell to his death . Both climbers checked their rig not once or twice but three times. Technically two sets of eyes inspected a system three times and yet, they fail to recognize the most important part of their rig. According to partner, distraction ( checking out other climbers on the wall that day) played a big rule for not focusing on their on own rig.
So ,tell me about your own near miss experience while been distracted.
|
|
|
|
|
notapplicable
Apr 25, 2011, 5:31 PM
Post #2 of 21
(3768 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
|
majid_sabet wrote: I recently review a bunch accident reports but one report got my attention and this is where two climbers completely missed to check their rap setup and during rappelling, one of the experience climber fell to his death . Both climbers checked their rig not once or twice but three times. Technically two sets of eyes inspected a system three times and yet, they fail to recognize the most important part of their rig. According to partner, distraction ( checking out other climbers on the wall that day) played a big rule for not focusing on their on own rig. So ,tell me about your own near miss experience while been distracted.
How about you tell us what the actual mode of failure was in this particular instance.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Apr 25, 2011, 5:45 PM
Post #3 of 21
(3750 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
One time I almost dropped my flask of Jim Beam because my partner yelled "off belay."
|
|
|
|
|
viciado
Apr 25, 2011, 6:01 PM
Post #4 of 21
(3727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2003
Posts: 429
|
notapplicable wrote: How about you tell us what the actual mode of failure was in this particular instance.
Given that this is in "General" and the OP is the wabbit... I'm going to guess that they either forgot to label everything with red and green arrows or neglected to use helmets.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Apr 25, 2011, 6:41 PM
Post #5 of 21
(3697 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
notapplicable wrote: majid_sabet wrote: I recently review a bunch accident reports but one report got my attention and this is where two climbers completely missed to check their rap setup and during rappelling, one of the experience climber fell to his death . Both climbers checked their rig not once or twice but three times. Technically two sets of eyes inspected a system three times and yet, they fail to recognize the most important part of their rig. According to partner, distraction ( checking out other climbers on the wall that day) played a big rule for not focusing on their on own rig. So ,tell me about your own near miss experience while been distracted. How about you tell us what the actual mode of failure was in this particular instance.
The actual mode of failure in this case is not so important cause i do not want six pages of threads to be focused on why they did not do this or that, rather, I want to talk about the physiological way of doing things after people become distracted. For example, it seems that after we become distracted, a part of brain goes to an autopilot and bypasses the check list.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 25, 2011, 6:42 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 25, 2011, 7:04 PM
Post #6 of 21
(3677 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
While just hanging out with some friends at the base of a route, i noticed one of them try to tie in through the belay loop. After pointing it out, I redoubled my efforts to double check the knot whenever I climb.
The guy was involved in a conversation while tying in.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Apr 25, 2011, 7:13 PM
Post #7 of 21
(3663 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
petsfed wrote: While just hanging out with some friends at the base of a route, i noticed one of them try to tie in through the belay loop. After pointing it out, I redoubled my efforts to double check the knot whenever I climb. The guy was involved in a conversation while tying in.
So I am sure your friend knew that he shouldn't tie to belay loop but he did however, you corrected it. Now if you did not pointed out till he was about to climb,do you think he was able to catch or he would had gone without noticing it?
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Apr 25, 2011, 7:26 PM
Post #8 of 21
(3647 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
I'm guilty of the following due to being distracted for one reason or another: failure to tie knot properly, failure to clip daisies when jumaring, failure to take rack when starting up a trad route, failure to get draws from partner whenswinging leads on multi-pitch bolted route.
|
|
|
|
|
tower_climber
Apr 25, 2011, 7:32 PM
Post #9 of 21
(3637 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 157
|
My climbing partner is a hottie. Therefore I take extra care when checking anchors. I want her coming home with me in one piece!  
|
|
|
|
|
TheRucat
Apr 25, 2011, 7:34 PM
Post #10 of 21
(3633 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2008
Posts: 234
|
I once got distracted by a crag dog while racking up for a climb. I was just about to begin climbing when, thankfully, my partner informed me I had forgotten to open the draw string on my chalk bag. That could have been ugly.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Apr 25, 2011, 7:36 PM
Post #11 of 21
(3630 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
majid_sabet wrote: petsfed wrote: While just hanging out with some friends at the base of a route, i noticed one of them try to tie in through the belay loop. After pointing it out, I redoubled my efforts to double check the knot whenever I climb. The guy was involved in a conversation while tying in. So I am sure your friend knew that he shouldn't tie to belay loop but he did however, you corrected it. Now if you did not pointed out till he was about to climb,do you think he was able to catch or he would had gone without noticing it?
You know, I'm not certain. I mean, this was the only time such a thing had even occurred, so its not like I have a clear experience on how often he catches his mistakes. Furthermore, his belayer was somebody I didn't know (but he did) so they might've caught it as well.
The thing about the situation was that it was such a casual, easy mistake, and I really couldn't lean on any experience to say "this was a near miss", its just the nearest I have any recollection of. That last phrase "I have any recollection of" is what caused me to really reexamine my practices and reinforce the double-checking process. I doubt many people could say with any accuracy how many times they've come close entirely because they probably don't even notice.
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbSoHigh
Apr 25, 2011, 7:42 PM
Post #12 of 21
(3624 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 208
|
In reply to: So ,tell me about your own near miss experience while been distracted.
I nearly missed happy hour last week because I was distracted climbing rocks.
|
|
|
|
|
squierbypetzl
Moderator
Apr 25, 2011, 9:07 PM
Post #13 of 21
(3578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
|
Indoors:
A friend once climbed up a 12m wall, got lowered off, and promptly discovered he had forgotten to rethread his 8 knot (he had only pulled the strand through once; I'm guessing the figure 8 tightened around the loose strand just enough for him to make it down; any fall would have probably been catastrophic).
An intermediate climber attached her atc to her harness by means of the keeper wire when belaying (i.e. there was nothing between the atc and the rope). Luckily someone caught it and put the climber on belay quickly.
Another instructor, myself and male client in his late 20's at the wall. Guy gets 3/4 up the wall on toprope with some effort, reaches a restpoint and decides the biner hanging near his right hand was in his way, so he unclips it and lets it fall. Almost straight onto my coworkers noggin. Luckily I looked up in time to see him let it loose and yell to her; still hit her in the back though.
Outdoors:
Once z-clipped myself right in the middle of the crux on a 5.11x. Held on long enough to unclip the lower bolt but it took some effort to avoid panicking.
|
|
|
|
|
rockforlife
Apr 25, 2011, 10:48 PM
Post #14 of 21
(3533 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563
|
In door climbing comp
I was the head setter for the comp, and had a really bad cold the week of setting. I was running around helping people out, fixing things, running routes, and what not.
When i went to go up and set i must have stopped half way through retracing my eight. i set the route came back down and found what i had done....  
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Apr 25, 2011, 10:54 PM
Post #15 of 21
(3531 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
Twice I've had partners untie themselves on Great Arch at Stone Mountain while climbing in a group of three. Each time they thought they were trying in the third and somehow untied themselves. Neither would fall into the category of "experienced climber" in my book, but both definitely are guys who should have known better every day of the week.
Both times, I missed the actual process but looked over and recognized the problem.
(This post was edited by TarHeelEMT on Apr 25, 2011, 10:56 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Apr 25, 2011, 11:38 PM
Post #16 of 21
(3514 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
squierbypetzl wrote: Once z-clipped myself right in the middle of the crux on a 5.11x. Held on long enough to unclip the lower bolt but it took some effort to avoid panicking.
I think this needs some more explanation.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 25, 2011, 11:47 PM
Post #17 of 21
(3506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
johnwesely wrote: squierbypetzl wrote: Once z-clipped myself right in the middle of the crux on a 5.11x. Held on long enough to unclip the lower bolt but it took some effort to avoid panicking. I think this needs some more explanation.
Yeah, especially the meaning of that lower case x.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 25, 2011, 11:48 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Bats
Apr 25, 2011, 11:53 PM
Post #18 of 21
(3500 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2007
Posts: 486
|
Running pass my anchors when I was learning to lead and running out of protection. My partner went up to retrieve his quickdraws, and cussed the whole way up, I literally climb right by the anchors, and started the second pitch. Lesson learned.
|
|
|
|
|
squierbypetzl
Moderator
Apr 26, 2011, 2:23 AM
Post #19 of 21
(3438 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
|
jt512 wrote: johnwesely wrote: squierbypetzl wrote: Once z-clipped myself right in the middle of the crux on a 5.11x. Held on long enough to unclip the lower bolt but it took some effort to avoid panicking. I think this needs some more explanation. Yeah, especially the meaning of that lower case x. Jay
Overhanging route inside a cave, highest point being less than 5 meters off the ground. The line hovers along the edge of the cave wall until the last 15 feet when it moves towards the middle of the cave, and along the wall are piles of basketball sized rocks. I reached the crux, clipped the 3rd bolt on a 60° overhang, and proceeded to tackle the roof. Grabbed a lefthand crimp above the lip, hooked up my left heel, felt pumped out from previous routes and made the dumb mistake of clipping the 4th bolt from this position instead of after pulling through the roof. So I reached down with my right hand, grabbed the rope before the draw (extended draw made it easier for me not to notice this), struggled slightly with the clip, and started climbing again until my belayer discreetly hollered at me that I had botched the clip. I hung on while I fidgeted the rope out of the 3rd draw and that was that. Hope this is clear enough for ya.
The x was supposed to be an "c".
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 26, 2011, 3:06 AM
Post #20 of 21
(3416 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
squierbypetzl wrote: jt512 wrote: johnwesely wrote: squierbypetzl wrote: Once z-clipped myself right in the middle of the crux on a 5.11x. Held on long enough to unclip the lower bolt but it took some effort to avoid panicking. I think this needs some more explanation. Yeah, especially the meaning of that lower case x. Jay Overhanging route inside a cave, highest point being less than 5 meters off the ground. The line hovers along the edge of the cave wall until the last 15 feet when it moves towards the middle of the cave, and along the wall are piles of basketball sized rocks. I reached the crux, clipped the 3rd bolt on a 60° overhang, and proceeded to tackle the roof. Grabbed a lefthand crimp above the lip, hooked up my left heel, felt pumped out from previous routes and made the dumb mistake of clipping the 4th bolt from this position instead of after pulling through the roof. So I reached down with my right hand, grabbed the rope before the draw (extended draw made it easier for me not to notice this), struggled slightly with the clip, and started climbing again until my belayer discreetly hollered at me that I had botched the clip. I hung on while I fidgeted the rope out of the 3rd draw and that was that. Hope this is clear enough for ya. The x was supposed to be an "c".
Got it.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Apr 26, 2011, 12:39 PM
Post #21 of 21
(3327 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
My wife looks REALLY good in climbing tops. I'm distracted every time I climb. I'm surprised I'm not dead.
Josh
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Apr 26, 2011, 12:39 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
