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supersonick
Apr 25, 2011, 4:22 PM
Post #60 of 75
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 157
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flesh wrote: For the folks reading this that aren't posting I'd like to add that all these naysayers are one of the biggest challenges to your success. For the record, I would've been amongst these naysayers just 1 year ago, even though at that point I had 10 years experience and had already climbed at a reasonably high level for a long time. My point is this, the reason that you are at the level your at is because of the stories your telling yourself. Some of them may be true, some of them half true and some of them that your totally convinced of will in hindsight become completely untrue. Expect the unexpected. Make it a habit to prove yourself and others wrong and you'll realize your potential. I can't tell you how many climbers I've discussed weight loss with that claim that they can't lose fat or that if they we're to cut calories that their climbing would suffer because they would lose muscle or that they already have low body fat, there just big boned, etc. Some of them trusted me enough to get past their own disbelief and to just TRY it. They have all been very happy with the results. It's very difficult and takes commitment but it's worth it, if your desire is to see your climbing take off more than most anything else. I'm glad people don't believe me, because their posts give the others reading this thread the chance to see some of the stories that folks tell themselves so that they don't have deal with the truth. Most intelligent folks have very intelligent reasons for why they aren't getting what they want. It's much easier to create a solid alibi then to make changes. Do you want good reasons or do you want to make breakthroughs? What V12 did you do? Do you have any video?
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suprasoup
Apr 25, 2011, 8:33 PM
Post #61 of 75
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
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johnwesely wrote: I hover around 4% body fat. What I should I be doing to be beast climber? Apparently all you need to do now is campus. Supra
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johnwesely
Apr 25, 2011, 10:22 PM
Post #62 of 75
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: I hover around 4% body fat. What I should I be doing to be beast climber? Apparently all you need to do now is campus. Supra How many times a day?
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suprasoup
Apr 25, 2011, 10:53 PM
Post #63 of 75
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
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johnwesely wrote: suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: I hover around 4% body fat. What I should I be doing to be beast climber? Apparently all you need to do now is campus. Supra How many times a day? Dunno, you'll have to ask flesh that one. I'm still wrapping my head around dropping two rungs with 30lbs on me. How's the planche push ups coming along? Supra
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johnwesely
Apr 25, 2011, 11:30 PM
Post #64 of 75
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: I hover around 4% body fat. What I should I be doing to be beast climber? Apparently all you need to do now is campus. Supra How many times a day? Dunno, you'll have to ask flesh that one. I'm still wrapping my head around dropping two rungs with 30lbs on me. How's the planche push ups coming along? Supra They are not coming at all. I quit when I went to the Gunks last year and never got back into it because my partner in crime had a kid.
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bennydh
Apr 25, 2011, 11:50 PM
Post #65 of 75
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Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 368
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Based on personal experience, I'm going to disagree with the V10 estimate. If we are talking about getting more than a handful of V10 under ones belt, spread from climbing destination to climbing destination, and not just the worlds softest 1 move wonder type of v10, then the concept is even more fantastical IMO. You've guessed that Anyone can tick V10 in 5 years following your advice, but you've also recognized that you climbed for a period of 9 years where your max was V9? Do your really think that the forementioned base of training for climbing didn't strengthen your body against injury, and put you in a place to push yourself to the next level? You spent years creating muscle memory, training recruitment for specific muscle groups, building otherwise unused muscle... and then you tell people anyone can do it in 5 years. It seems deluded. Although, this is a case where I'd like to be wrong.
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flesh
Apr 26, 2011, 5:47 PM
Post #66 of 75
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supersonick
Apr 26, 2011, 5:49 PM
Post #67 of 75
(3776 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 157
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What V12 did you do?
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curt
Apr 27, 2011, 3:51 AM
Post #68 of 75
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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flesh wrote: ...I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside... I'm pretty sure I did my first consensus V10 at age 43--after climbing 20 years. Go figure. Curt
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bennydh
Apr 27, 2011, 7:14 AM
Post #69 of 75
(3696 views)
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Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 368
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flesh wrote: bennydh wrote: Based on personal experience, I'm going to disagree with the V10 estimate. If we are talking about getting more than a handful of V10 under ones belt, spread from climbing destination to climbing destination, and not just the worlds softest 1 move wonder type of v10, then the concept is even more fantastical IMO. You've guessed that Anyone can tick V10 in 5 years following your advice, but you've also recognized that you climbed for a period of 9 years where your max was V9? Do your really think that the forementioned base of training for climbing didn't strengthen your body against injury, and put you in a place to push yourself to the next level? You spent years creating muscle memory, training recruitment for specific muscle groups, building otherwise unused muscle... and then you tell people anyone can do it in 5 years. It seems deluded. Although, this is a case where I'd like to be wrong. I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside. At 23 I got a horrid injury because I was power crimping to much and apparently I'm not a mutant like alot of my friends. I took a couple years off, my finger hurt just walking around during this time. I climbed infrequently from about 25-28, never harder than v8 and a few select v9's. At 28 I took it serious for a bit and did one v10, my finger started hurting a bit, I didn't want to have to take a bunch of time off again, so I started tuning it down again. 6 month's ago I started tuning it up again. About 4 months ago, i started the process of cutting 20 lbs from 176 to 156 so far and developing power training/climbing strategies that wouldn't hurt my fingers. I'm better than I've ever been and still on a huge upswing. I assume since most of us aren't mutants, this type of training will become prevalent in the future as a way to safely power train without getting hurt for mutants and non mutants. My plan is to get to 153ish then stop dieting. The power training described in this thread is priceless if your goal is to get stronger and your worried about getting injured in the process. It's simply the best way I've found to do so. Try it and you will see. I'm working on building a garage wall that will allow me to do the same workout but on a horizontal roof on pinches. Hopefully that clears that up for you. While I generally don't care what other people climb, I think as soon as someone offers advice, and uses their achievements as a reason or foundation for being listened to, they ought to be more transparent and forthcoming about those achievements... Have you considered letting the skeptics, myself included, know what v10s, 11s, or 12s you've done? Or are you going to keep dodging those questions?
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enigma
Apr 29, 2011, 1:13 AM
Post #70 of 75
(3630 views)
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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bennydh wrote: flesh wrote: bennydh wrote: Based on personal experience, I'm going to disagree with the V10 estimate. If we are talking about getting more than a handful of V10 under ones belt, spread from climbing destination to climbing destination, and not just the worlds softest 1 move wonder type of v10, then the concept is even more fantastical IMO. You've guessed that Anyone can tick V10 in 5 years following your advice, but you've also recognized that you climbed for a period of 9 years where your max was V9? Do your really think that the forementioned base of training for climbing didn't strengthen your body against injury, and put you in a place to push yourself to the next level? You spent years creating muscle memory, training recruitment for specific muscle groups, building otherwise unused muscle... and then you tell people anyone can do it in 5 years. It seems deluded. Although, this is a case where I'd like to be wrong. I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside. At 23 I got a horrid injury because I was power crimping to much and apparently I'm not a mutant like alot of my friends. I took a couple years off, my finger hurt just walking around during this time. I climbed infrequently from about 25-28, never harder than v8 and a few select v9's. At 28 I took it serious for a bit and did one v10, my finger started hurting a bit, I didn't want to have to take a bunch of time off again, so I started tuning it down again. 6 month's ago I started tuning it up again. About 4 months ago, i started the process of cutting 20 lbs from 176 to 156 so far and developing power training/climbing strategies that wouldn't hurt my fingers. I'm better than I've ever been and still on a huge upswing. I assume since most of us aren't mutants, this type of training will become prevalent in the future as a way to safely power train without getting hurt for mutants and non mutants. My plan is to get to 153ish then stop dieting. The power training described in this thread is priceless if your goal is to get stronger and your worried about getting injured in the process. It's simply the best way I've found to do so. Try it and you will see. I'm working on building a garage wall that will allow me to do the same workout but on a horizontal roof on pinches. Hopefully that clears that up for you. While I generally don't care what other people climb, I think as soon as someone offers advice, and uses their achievements as a reason or foundation for being listened to, they ought to be more transparent and forthcoming about those achievements... Have you considered letting the skeptics, myself included, know what v10s, 11s, or 12s you've done? Or are you going to keep dodging those questions? Flesh you deleted all your posts with a thread with so many responses, Why? Where are the photos /videos of your bouldering v10's , v11's, v12's? Do you think everyone will forget on rockclimbing.com?
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curt
Apr 29, 2011, 2:21 AM
Post #71 of 75
(3613 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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enigma wrote: bennydh wrote: flesh wrote: bennydh wrote: Based on personal experience, I'm going to disagree with the V10 estimate. If we are talking about getting more than a handful of V10 under ones belt, spread from climbing destination to climbing destination, and not just the worlds softest 1 move wonder type of v10, then the concept is even more fantastical IMO. You've guessed that Anyone can tick V10 in 5 years following your advice, but you've also recognized that you climbed for a period of 9 years where your max was V9? Do your really think that the forementioned base of training for climbing didn't strengthen your body against injury, and put you in a place to push yourself to the next level? You spent years creating muscle memory, training recruitment for specific muscle groups, building otherwise unused muscle... and then you tell people anyone can do it in 5 years. It seems deluded. Although, this is a case where I'd like to be wrong. I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside. At 23 I got a horrid injury because I was power crimping to much and apparently I'm not a mutant like alot of my friends. I took a couple years off, my finger hurt just walking around during this time. I climbed infrequently from about 25-28, never harder than v8 and a few select v9's. At 28 I took it serious for a bit and did one v10, my finger started hurting a bit, I didn't want to have to take a bunch of time off again, so I started tuning it down again. 6 month's ago I started tuning it up again. About 4 months ago, i started the process of cutting 20 lbs from 176 to 156 so far and developing power training/climbing strategies that wouldn't hurt my fingers. I'm better than I've ever been and still on a huge upswing. I assume since most of us aren't mutants, this type of training will become prevalent in the future as a way to safely power train without getting hurt for mutants and non mutants. My plan is to get to 153ish then stop dieting. The power training described in this thread is priceless if your goal is to get stronger and your worried about getting injured in the process. It's simply the best way I've found to do so. Try it and you will see. I'm working on building a garage wall that will allow me to do the same workout but on a horizontal roof on pinches. Hopefully that clears that up for you. While I generally don't care what other people climb, I think as soon as someone offers advice, and uses their achievements as a reason or foundation for being listened to, they ought to be more transparent and forthcoming about those achievements... Have you considered letting the skeptics, myself included, know what v10s, 11s, or 12s you've done? Or are you going to keep dodging those questions? Flesh you deleted all your posts with a thread with so many responses, Why? Where are the photos /videos of your bouldering v10's , v11's, v12's? Do you think everyone will forget on rockclimbing.com? ...asks the 5.6 n00b. Curt
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climber49er
Apr 29, 2011, 8:32 PM
Post #72 of 75
(3533 views)
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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
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Been away for quite some time. Glad to know this place is still weird.
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erisspirit
Apr 29, 2011, 9:14 PM
Post #73 of 75
(3514 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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climber49er wrote: Been away for quite some time. Glad to know this place is still weird. I resemble that remark
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Apr 29, 2011, 9:25 PM
Post #74 of 75
(3510 views)
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Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208
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curt wrote: flesh wrote: ...I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside... I'm pretty sure I did my first consensus V10 at age 43--after climbing 20 years. Go figure. Curt Proof you had the genetics in you all along.
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enigma
Apr 29, 2011, 11:03 PM
Post #75 of 75
(3488 views)
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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curt wrote: enigma wrote: bennydh wrote: flesh wrote: bennydh wrote: Based on personal experience, I'm going to disagree with the V10 estimate. If we are talking about getting more than a handful of V10 under ones belt, spread from climbing destination to climbing destination, and not just the worlds softest 1 move wonder type of v10, then the concept is even more fantastical IMO. You've guessed that Anyone can tick V10 in 5 years following your advice, but you've also recognized that you climbed for a period of 9 years where your max was V9? Do your really think that the forementioned base of training for climbing didn't strengthen your body against injury, and put you in a place to push yourself to the next level? You spent years creating muscle memory, training recruitment for specific muscle groups, building otherwise unused muscle... and then you tell people anyone can do it in 5 years. It seems deluded. Although, this is a case where I'd like to be wrong. I started climbing right when I turned 17. I did my first v10 at 21, at 22 i had done a dozen v10's and a dozen v9's outside. At 23 I got a horrid injury because I was power crimping to much and apparently I'm not a mutant like alot of my friends. I took a couple years off, my finger hurt just walking around during this time. I climbed infrequently from about 25-28, never harder than v8 and a few select v9's. At 28 I took it serious for a bit and did one v10, my finger started hurting a bit, I didn't want to have to take a bunch of time off again, so I started tuning it down again. 6 month's ago I started tuning it up again. About 4 months ago, i started the process of cutting 20 lbs from 176 to 156 so far and developing power training/climbing strategies that wouldn't hurt my fingers. I'm better than I've ever been and still on a huge upswing. I assume since most of us aren't mutants, this type of training will become prevalent in the future as a way to safely power train without getting hurt for mutants and non mutants. My plan is to get to 153ish then stop dieting. The power training described in this thread is priceless if your goal is to get stronger and your worried about getting injured in the process. It's simply the best way I've found to do so. Try it and you will see. I'm working on building a garage wall that will allow me to do the same workout but on a horizontal roof on pinches. Hopefully that clears that up for you. While I generally don't care what other people climb, I think as soon as someone offers advice, and uses their achievements as a reason or foundation for being listened to, they ought to be more transparent and forthcoming about those achievements... Have you considered letting the skeptics, myself included, know what v10s, 11s, or 12s you've done? Or are you going to keep dodging those questions? Flesh you deleted all your posts with a thread with so many responses, Why? Where are the photos /videos of your bouldering v10's , v11's, v12's? Do you think everyone will forget on rockclimbing.com? ...asks the 5.6 n00b. Curt
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