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Jmus
Apr 24, 2011, 11:38 PM
Post #26 of 46
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it might not be direct cable im hoping they realized that nylon on cable is bad haha
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jt512
Apr 25, 2011, 1:19 AM
Post #27 of 46
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Jmus wrote: it might not be direct cable im hoping they realized that nylon on cable is bad haha
I don't suppose there's any chance that you'll try to write your posts in English, is there?
Oh, never mind. *plonk*
Jay
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Jmus
Apr 25, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #28 of 46
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now im confused haha
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viciado
Apr 25, 2011, 8:28 AM
Post #29 of 46
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Don't worry, *plonk* means you won't hear from Jay512 anytime soon... unless someone quotes you.
(This post was edited by viciado on Apr 25, 2011, 9:13 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 25, 2011, 12:05 PM
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BTW, Spending all summer setting up ropes for kids (who would be screwed if something happened to me), I find the safest way to protect yourself at the top of the cliff is to use a separate "rope" safety line. This can be either static or dynamic. I use primarily a long static to set up all my anchors and just use enough to attach to an anchor so it hangs over the edge (tie a knot in the end) and attach myself with a gri gri (a shunt or prussik will also work).
If your toprope anchor is set back from the edge than use the same one for your safety line. If it is bolts right at the edge or even over it, then set up a separate line off a tree or other features at the top.
Josh
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Jmus
Apr 25, 2011, 12:38 PM
Post #32 of 46
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thats actually what i have been doing all this year at school when ive been setting up topropes and its amazing but i have my schools gear once i go back home i no longer will have all that but i did learn some cool ways to anchor with your climbing rope while hanging over the edge and once you set your anchor switching over and rappin down
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dave76
Apr 27, 2011, 12:11 PM
Post #33 of 46
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what many people do over here is use a sling made out of a few feet of rope. Alternatively, some stores sell dynamic slings made out of a piece of dynamic rope.
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2011, 12:37 PM
Post #34 of 46
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Jmus wrote: thats actually what i have been doing all this year at school when ive been setting up topropes and its amazing but i have my schools gear once i go back home i no longer will have all that but i did learn some cool ways to anchor with your climbing rope while hanging over the edge and once you set your anchor switching over and rappin down
What's amazing?
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Jmus
Apr 27, 2011, 12:44 PM
Post #35 of 46
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i was saying its nice to have all of the schools gear to use because they have alot to pick from and use to set my anchors but this summer i wont have as much gear to use
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2011, 1:42 PM
Post #36 of 46
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salamanizer wrote: Good god people. Use one of those Metolius full strength dasies if you're so paranoid or just clip in with a sling or two like everyone else. Why over complicate things. They didn't have any of this fancy bullshit back in the day and most everyone didn't die. You're over thinking and being paranoid. Use your head, think shit through and you'll be just fine.
These tests (http://www.dmmclimbing.com/...nid=293&ngroup=1) might indicate that he's not overthinking it.
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jt512
Apr 27, 2011, 3:10 PM
Post #37 of 46
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shockabuku wrote: Jmus wrote: thats actually what i have been doing all this year at school when ive been setting up topropes and its amazing but i have my schools gear once i go back home i no longer will have all that but i did learn some cool ways to anchor with your climbing rope while hanging over the edge and once you set your anchor switching over and rappin down What's amazing?
That he went to school.
Jay
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bearbreeder
Apr 27, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #38 of 46
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most of these test have no harness in the system ... we do wear harnesses dont we?
im sure some here will say the harness doesnt make a difference 
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2011, 5:40 PM
Post #39 of 46
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bearbreeder wrote: most of these test have no harness in the system ... we do wear harnesses dont we? im sure some here will say the harness doesnt make a difference
Although, in conjunction with a body, it presumably functions reasonably well that way, a harness isn't made for energy absorption and when dealing with forces that might be in the 10-12 kN range I'd prefer to avoid the issue altogether.
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2011, 10:33 PM
Post #41 of 46
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jt512 wrote: Jmus wrote: it might not be direct cable im hoping they realized that nylon on cable is bad haha I don't suppose there's any chance that you'll try to write your posts in English, is there? Oh, never mind. *plonk* Jay
#5: Plonk
Definition:
cheap or inferior wine
Example:
"Fine diners are drinking premier cru wines at plonk prices as a bring-your-own booze revolution gathers pace in Britain's best restaurants." – Robert Booth, The Guardian, June 20, 2010
About the word:
Plonk is a shortening of the earlier plink-plonk, and it may be a modification of vin blanc, which means "white wine" in French.
http://www.merriam-webster.com/top-ten-lists/top-10-favorite-british-words/plonk.html
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2011, 10:39 PM
Post #42 of 46
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bearbreeder wrote: shockabuku wrote: Although, in conjunction with a body, it presumably functions reasonably well that way, a harness isn't made for energy absorption and when dealing with forces that might be in the 10-12 kN range I'd prefer to avoid the issue altogether. whadda do i see here? ... these gumbie bums using static slings and daisies hitched to their harness ... OMG ... dun they know that their gumby azzes are toast because they didnt listen to those RC "experts" !!!! [image]http://i52.tinypic.com/15q6iwy.png[/image]
Now you've taken the issue out of the context in which it was posed. What you don't see is those same "gumbie bums" above their anchors, do you?
You've said your piece, you obviously don't think this is a serious issue, but that doesn't make you right.
If you want to engage in a sarcastic, belittling argument, I'm not interested.
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carabiner96
Apr 28, 2011, 8:41 PM
Post #43 of 46
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
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blueeyedclimber wrote: BTW, Spending all summer setting up ropes for kids (who would be screwed if something happened to me), I find the safest way to protect yourself at the top of the cliff is to use a separate "rope" safety line. This can be either static or dynamic. I use primarily a long static to set up all my anchors and just use enough to attach to an anchor so it hangs over the edge (tie a knot in the end) and attach myself with a gri gri (a shunt or prussik will also work). If your toprope anchor is set back from the edge than use the same one for your safety line. If it is bolts right at the edge or even over it, then set up a separate line off a tree or other features at the top. Josh
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rangerrob
May 3, 2011, 4:21 PM
Post #44 of 46
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Posts: 641
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Just because they are halfway up a wall in Yosemite with wild looking hair and drinking water out of a shitty bottle doesn't mean they have any idea what they are doing. The picture is completely out of the context of the discussion. Aid climbing does not immediately imply experience. I'm sure there are plenty of newbie mistakes made on The Nose.
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bearbreeder
May 3, 2011, 4:26 PM
Post #45 of 46
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im sure they are newbs  ... im also quite sure they have no idea what they are doing ... they were only "projecting" free climbing some gumby route called mescalito ...
how about this one from parks canada rescue ... im sure they dont know either
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rangerrob
May 3, 2011, 4:47 PM
Post #46 of 46
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And I suppose my lack of climber identification automaticallty makes me a Newbie, right? Hey, at least I got the cliff right!
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