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jedasmith
May 4, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2006
Posts: 64
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Looking to take a trip to Utah. Interested in sport climbing some moderates. Have never even been to the state before. Any good recommendations about areas as well as places to stay, when to go, etc.?
Thank you!
Jen
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elmayimbe
May 31, 2011, 4:05 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Dec 19, 2003
Posts: 20
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If you haven't already tripped, here is some general information:
Maple Canyon (1hr 45 min south of SLC) - Pulling cobbles. Tons of routes of every grade including easy-hard routes near each other. Pay campground or free options along road above & below. Main season: May - October
Big Cottonwood Canyon & others out of SLC valley - quartzite/other. Minutes from city with scattered moderate sport climbs. Little cottonwood granite is mostly trad, but has a lot of moderate sport limestone up higher (midsummer). Vary from OK to classic (follow the stars). Campgrounds up canyons; can't camp for free legally right off main roads so be discrete if you want to attempt free car camping (or backpack 20 min). Main season: May - October
American Fork & Rock Canyon - Pocketed limestone (& some quartzite in Rock Canyon). In Utah County, 20 & 30 minutes south of SLC. A lot of harder sport climbs (5.11-5.14) with a fair number of easier climbs mixed about. Campgrounds in AF and free options off dirt roads higher up AF canyon. Main season: May - October
Ogden - Quartzite & limestone (up canyon). 45 min north of SLC. A lot of moderate quartzite sport climbs at foothills. Campgrounds and free options up Odgen Canyon. Season: year-round pending weather.
Logan - Limestone. About 1:45 north of SLC. Includes moderate to hard climbs. Main season: May - October
Uintahs - Quartzite. 1.5 - 2 hrs east of SLC. A lot of moderate sport sport climbs across scattered crags; a lot of climbs are fairly short but pretty good. Tons of campgrounds (but often full) and free options. Great place to go in summer when 90-100 in SLC. Season: June - September, but maybe no sooner than late June this year and there will surely still be some snow.
Moab/St. George/S Utah - 3.5 - 4 hrs southeast/southwest of SLC. Moderate sport climbing is limited in/around Moab whereas there is a TON in and around St. George. Lots of camping options. Usually really hot May - September, main season: Oct - April
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