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Budzilla
May 5, 2011, 4:12 AM
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After building an anchor, which is more correct, clipping in directly or clove hitching into it?
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mikebee
May 5, 2011, 4:19 AM
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I always clove hitch in.
It adds a dynamic element to your attachment, and it is quick, easy and safe to adjust in length if needed.
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sungam
May 5, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Budzilla wrote: After building an anchor, which is more correct, clipping in directly or clove hitching into it?
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shockabuku
May 5, 2011, 12:42 PM
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How is clove hitching it not "clipping in directly"?
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sungam
May 5, 2011, 12:51 PM
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shockabuku wrote: How is clove hitching it not "clipping in directly"?
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j_ung
May 5, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Budzilla wrote: After building an anchor, which is more correct, clipping in directly or clove hitching into it?
I think you may find situations in which one or the other would be the best bet. All things being equal, I prefer to clove in with the rope for the adjustability of it and to add a dynamic element, however slight, to the system. I sometimes like to build my anchors from the rope, however, which kind of precludes clove hitching.
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darkgift06
May 5, 2011, 4:13 PM
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depends if I'm hanging or on a ledge... if I'm hanging I usually secure with a sling & lockers, if on a big ledge I'll clove hitch.
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majid_sabet
May 5, 2011, 4:25 PM
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I always clip directly with two cords to master point
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chris
May 15, 2011, 8:09 PM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
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I typically clip in to the master point with the rope using a clove hitch. If a single rope is good enough for a factor 2 fall, it should be good enough to hold me to the anchor.
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bearbreeder
May 17, 2011, 5:51 AM
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most interesting ... i wonder if that clove was tight to begin with ....
i think we should see many more such photos from tests if it was a common issue ... not to mention that clove hitches are taught as perfectly acceptable by most guides i know of ...
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majid_sabet
May 17, 2011, 6:09 AM
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j_ung wrote: [image]http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/9439/coreshot2.jpg[/image] The clove hitch might— might—be a problem in a factor-2 fall. The caption that goes with the above photo on gear.com: In reply to: A single factor-2 fall was harsh enough to produce core shots. The damage seen above was in the clove hitch near the belayer’s end of the rope, which he had used to attach himself to the anchor. Photo courtesy of Rockclimbing.com user, “Sittingduck.”
I think Tom Moyer did a test on CH and it was one of the worse way of fixing yourself to master during FF2 test
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majid_sabet
May 17, 2011, 6:13 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: most interesting ... i wonder if that clove was tight to begin with .... i think we should see many more such photos from tests if it was a common issue ... not to mention that clove hitches are taught as perfectly acceptable by most guides i know of ...
I read a PDF on CH knot and its one of the worse due to too much of play and rope running on each other ( pre-tighten or loose) during FF2.
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bearbreeder
May 17, 2011, 7:45 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: I read a PDF on CH knot and its one of the worse due to too much of play and rope running on each other ( pre-tighten or loose) during FF2.
link please ...
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majid_sabet
May 17, 2011, 4:22 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: majid_sabet wrote: I read a PDF on CH knot and its one of the worse due to too much of play and rope running on each other ( pre-tighten or loose) during FF2. link please ...
this a homemade test but I am trying to locate the other test with PDF which is more in detail than this link
http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html
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bearbreeder
May 17, 2011, 4:33 PM
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thats over 12 kn on an old rope ... note the BD tests in which they show old ropes breaking at 6-12 kn anyways ... in other words 12 kn will probably kill yr old rope clove hitch or no clove
i bet the people at that link still teach students to clove in to the master point ... do you wanna send em the email or should i 
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j_ung
May 17, 2011, 6:13 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Personally, I clove into the anchor fairly often and take other steps to make an FF2 fall acceptably unlikely. In the rare case when I think a true FF2 fall has a more than nominal chance, I pick some other way.
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