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fluffystuff
May 13, 2011, 11:23 PM
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Hi,
Heading to Tahquitz for a week of climbing on Sunday. Heading with someone new to climbing and multi-pitch. Any beta on the area? Any recommendations? If you are familiar with the area, it'd be great to hear from you.
Brooke
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snoopy138
May 14, 2011, 12:02 AM
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fluffystuff wrote: Hi, Heading to Tahquitz for a week of climbing on Sunday. Heading with someone new to climbing and multi-pitch. Any beta on the area? Any recommendations? If you are familiar with the area, it'd be great to hear from you. Brooke
what grades are you looking to climb?
my #1 piece of advice would be to get to the top on sunday and follow somebody who's been there before down the friction descent ... it's not all that obvious where to go.
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dugl33
May 14, 2011, 12:19 AM
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fluffystuff wrote: Hi, Heading to Tahquitz for a week of climbing on Sunday. Heading with someone new to climbing and multi-pitch. Any beta on the area? Any recommendations? If you are familiar with the area, it'd be great to hear from you. Brooke
The forecast looks a bit chilly next week so I'd stay on the west (right) and south facing routes. Maybe start on fingertip traverse, top out, and find the friction route descent.
If that goes well, try fingertrip, coffin nail to jensens jaunt, and traitor horn.
Its usually possible to bail from Jungle Ledge with two ropes, or climb the El Camino lieback pitch, fingergrip, or continue the fingertip traverse.
Left ski track will get good sun, although its quite steep and exposed for 5.6. Might freak out a new climber a bit. Ditto for Angel's Fright. There are some other good long easy routes but they might be pretty cold.
Also, if it turns out to be too cold next week you're not far from Jtree.
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fluffystuff
May 14, 2011, 12:34 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2006
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You guys are great. Thanks for the head's up.
We'll probably try and knock out an easy, non-traversy route the first day. Something hopefully 5.6 or less. Thanks for the tips!
He did OK on 5.7 crack at the Tennesse Wall last week (after only climbing a few days). We probably won't go much harder than 5.7... maybe a 5.8 or 5.9 by the end of the week if it's not a traversy route.
Brooke
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fluffystuff
May 14, 2011, 2:00 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2006
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We are flexible where we go. Is there somewhere else multi-pitch that you'd recommend?
Flying out at 4:30pm for San Diego, but we are standby and so could change destination.
We chose Tahquitz on Tuesday when the forecasts were in the 60s.
Idyllwild forecasts are mid50s with 15mph wind. What does that mean for Tahquitz? Will it be similar temp/wind? Or 10degress colder and more wind?
Thanks for any help. JTree suggestion is cool. If only it were multi-pitch. Fun either way though.
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dugl33
May 14, 2011, 4:27 PM
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Most of what I can think of is at higher elevations and wouldn't be much better.
The vast majority of routes at Jtree are single pitch, but there a few multi-pitch. [A few routes such as Dappled Mare (in the Lost Horse Area) are three pitches. There is also some multi-pitch at Saddle Rocks such as "Walk on the Wild side" and "Right On". Right on could be a good intro to multi-pitch for your friend.
Considering both temps and moderate multi-pitch, Red Rock near Las Vegas is probably your best bet.
Tahquitz is awesome though so its a bummer temps are dropping through the week. Wednesday looks particularly dicey weather wise.
Good luck with your trip.
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