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Arockstar


May 16, 2011, 8:07 PM
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Looking for Daks partners this summer
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Anyone interested in cragging/multipitch/bouldering I'm looking for partners starting in June. Have rack, rope, wheels, and guidebook. Looking to get up on weekends. Currently lead 5.8 but that should improve quickly as I get more time on the rock.


AARONLEWISDINKIN


May 19, 2011, 4:08 AM
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I'm more a beginner, I love to belay, I'd love to try some outside rock, I'm getting fed up with the gym crowd.


dr_feelgood


May 20, 2011, 12:29 AM
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AARONLEWISDINKIN wrote:
I'm more a beginner, I love to belay, I'd love to try some outside rock, I'm getting fed up with the gym crowd.
Do you give a good second?


AARONLEWISDINKIN


May 20, 2011, 12:59 AM
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That's a question you'll have to ask the people I belay. I mostly belay because that's where I personally feel I have proficiency.

I've never done any of that crazy two rope ice climbing belay work though, just very sheltered gym/pa/h5 type belay work. I used to remember all the knots to setup the "elements" but after years of on and off gym work where they don't let customers set up the routes, I pretty much forgot all the knots from memory. Which is why I feel the gyms are holding me back.

I want to learn lead from an experienced mentor who is willing to teach me, but I find it very difficult to gain experience if others demand experience and are not willing to share and teach it.

Your safety is up to you, I'm just asking an opportunity to learn and be mentored, which, pusher spending several hundred at one of those EMS classes which always conflict with my schedule because I work weekend overnights taking care of the disabled, I cannot figure out how to progress on my own; I never climb without a buddy. Period


carabiner96


May 20, 2011, 1:23 AM
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Re: [AARONLEWISDINKIN] Looking for Daks partners this summer [In reply to]
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AARONLEWISDINKIN wrote:
That's a question you'll have to ask the people I belay. I mostly belay because that's where I personally feel I have proficiency.

I've never done any of that crazy two rope ice climbing belay work though, just very sheltered gym/pa/h5 type belay work. I used to remember all the knots to setup the "elements" but after years of on and off gym work where they don't let customers set up the routes, I pretty much forgot all the knots from memory. Which is why I feel the gyms are holding me back.

I want to learn lead from an experienced mentor who is willing to teach me, but I find it very difficult to gain experience if others demand experience and are not willing to share and teach it.

Your safety is up to you, I'm just asking an opportunity to learn and be mentored, which, pusher spending several hundred at one of those EMS classes which always conflict with my schedule because I work weekend overnights taking care of the disabled, I cannot figure out how to progress on my own; I never climb without a buddy. Period
That's not what he asked. Are you a good second? How much gear is the person baby sitting you going to lose?


carabiner96


May 20, 2011, 1:26 AM
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Arockstar wrote:
Anyone interested in cragging/multipitch/bouldering I'm looking for partners starting in June. Have rack, rope, wheels, and guidebook. Looking to get up on weekends. Currently lead 5.8 but that should improve quickly as I get more time on the rock.
I might be down for later in the summer, I'm coming from central vermont so I'd have to do an overnight to make it worthwhile.


dr_feelgood


May 20, 2011, 1:31 AM
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carabiner96 wrote:
AARONLEWISDINKIN wrote:
That's a question you'll have to ask the people I belay. I mostly belay because that's where I personally feel I have proficiency.

I've never done any of that crazy two rope ice climbing belay work though, just very sheltered gym/pa/h5 type belay work. I used to remember all the knots to setup the "elements" but after years of on and off gym work where they don't let customers set up the routes, I pretty much forgot all the knots from memory. Which is why I feel the gyms are holding me back.

I want to learn lead from an experienced mentor who is willing to teach me, but I find it very difficult to gain experience if others demand experience and are not willing to share and teach it.

Your safety is up to you, I'm just asking an opportunity to learn and be mentored, which, pusher spending several hundred at one of those EMS classes which always conflict with my schedule because I work weekend overnights taking care of the disabled, I cannot figure out how to progress on my own; I never climb without a buddy. Period
That's not what he asked. Are you a good second? How much gear is the person baby sitting you going to lose?

I demand good seconds.


Arockstar


May 20, 2011, 2:02 AM
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carabiner96 wrote:
Arockstar wrote:
Anyone interested in cragging/multipitch/bouldering I'm looking for partners starting in June. Have rack, rope, wheels, and guidebook. Looking to get up on weekends. Currently lead 5.8 but that should improve quickly as I get more time on the rock.
I might be down for later in the summer, I'm coming from central vermont so I'd have to do an overnight to make it worthwhile.


Let me know. Im coming from Southern VT. If you're down for 2+ days Ive got housing covered.


AARONLEWISDINKIN


May 20, 2011, 4:00 AM
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Babysitting? I'm not sure how everyone here developed their experience, I hope it wasn't all books and praying "it worked the same" in practice? I'm asking for a more experienced person to help me, it's a simple concept called learning; usually involves a person with more experience "a teacher" and a person with less experience "a student." I don't know how everyone here seems to have magically assimilated this information (through osmosis) without them being a novice at some point in their past/history? Weren't you asking the same questions I'm asking at one point? I don't understand why I'm not allowed the same chance all of you before me received when those of you were in my shoes?


enigma


May 20, 2011, 6:30 AM
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Re: [AARONLEWISDINKIN] Looking for Daks partners this summer [In reply to]
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AARONLEWISDINKIN wrote:
Babysitting? I'm not sure how everyone here developed their experience, I hope it wasn't all books and praying "it worked the same" in practice? I'm asking for a more experienced person to help me, it's a simple concept called learning; usually involves a person with more experience "a teacher" and a person with less experience "a student." I don't know how everyone here seems to have magically assimilated this information (through osmosis) without them being a novice at some point in their past/history? Weren't you asking the same questions I'm asking at one point? I don't understand why I'm not allowed the same chance all of you before me received when those of you were in my shoes?

A second cleans the gear from the route, cams, nuts, aliens, quickdraws, if you can't get the gear out and climb up to the top of the climb, problems are encountered.
You need a nut tool, as well as being able to balance sometimes on one leg or whatever in order to get out everything out for the leader.
While doing this you put in on your harness, including webbing, and when you get to the top of the climb you give it to the leader. Gear is expensive!
Since you are in a gym you can take a lead class, and begin to clean quickdraws. Good Start.
You have get to the top of the route. If you start climbing and you make it only halfway , it causes problems.
You are part of a partnership, a team together.


(This post was edited by enigma on May 20, 2011, 6:35 AM)


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