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yodadave
May 29, 2011, 6:26 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
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Hey so i work at a ropes course and just retired a bunch of worn belay devices.
I would like to replace them with steel so the next batch don't wear down as quick. My options appear to be the DMM v-twin or the JUL.
JUL is cheaper, kids like bright colors and for a ropes course setting i can't think of any time i would need 2 slots. (i would love not having to explain the second slot to kids every day as well)
However i've never held a JUL and i have no idea how durable the synthetic retaining loop is. I imagine i'll have to go with the v-twin but anyone got good stuff to say about the JUL?
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justanotherclimber
May 29, 2011, 9:48 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2005
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its a fine device, durable, works well on the skinny lines- that retaining loop will be far more durable than the one on the v-twin, imho.
maybe split the difference on devices and use them both?
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yodadave
May 30, 2011, 6:10 PM
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thanks for the opinion, i appreciate it.
Any others?
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tower_climber
May 31, 2011, 3:53 AM
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Hi Dave.
As someone who makes a living on alpine towers and ropes courses, here is my opinion:
If you are dead-set on using a steel device, go with the V-Twin. The JUL has no high-friction side (and not all participants are small, are they) and the synthetic keeper loop makes me nervous.
With that said, I would stick with whatever device your program and/or builder recommends. If you are taking decent care of your ropes, you should be able to get more than 300 hours of use out of a Trango JAWS or an ATC-XP. That is more than you should be getting out of your ropes, a far more expensive commodity.
Where are you working in NC?
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yodadave
Jun 1, 2011, 2:10 AM
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Hey tower,
I actually just moved to CA but worked the last 6 yrs on an AT near Bryson City NC so I'm familiar with the jaws. You make a good point about participant size. My issue is that I'm now in an area with highly abrasive decomposed granite every where and even with rope buckets i feel like ropes are going to shred belay devices in way under 300hrs. If the anecdotal records here are to be trusted the ATCs i just retired aren't that old. Also there is no builder recommendation according to the inspection i just had done where we went on a retire fest.
So i figure why not use the Steel and see how long they last.
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tower_climber
Jun 1, 2011, 2:23 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
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Ah. Valid points.
My vote goes for the DMM then. I just don't like the idea of a device without friction options. And that synthetic keeper loop makes me wonder how long you could use the device before the steel insert just popped out.
I am conducting a training over the next few days and will be working with several industry pros. I'll run your situation by them and let you know what I hear. From the horse's mouth, so to speak.
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yodadave
Jun 1, 2011, 4:34 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
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thanks, i'd appreciate it.
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StudentoftheEarth
Jan 8, 2012, 4:00 PM
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Registered: Dec 7, 2008
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I stumbled upon this when searching for reviews of the Jul. I can't help but notice "Tower Climber" stating that there are not options for friction, but this review
http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/new_and_notable_edelrid_jul_-_2010_gear_guide/
states otherwise. Anyway I'm just curious what you decided as I'm looking for some more information from people who have used the Jul. I'm thinking about purchasing one myself.
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yodadave
Jan 8, 2012, 4:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
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Hey Student, i think that the slight asymmetry of the jul isn't what a lot of people consider as a real addition of friction as opposed to the teeth of several other tubular devices on the market these days but good eye for the details.
Can't remember if i mentioned this above but i ran into another left coast ropes course director who is using Juls and she liked them. she said the keeper was more substantial than it looks.
I still think the jul is an outlier as far as general use belay devices go but it seems to have a small niche especially now the DMM steel option is gone.
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