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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 7:21 PM
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You know, I may as well add Glass Menagerie at Looking Glass. That's a really frickin' fun route to climb. It's no wonder it's so popular.
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donald949
Jun 7, 2011, 10:40 PM
Post #27 of 76
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Shark Fin Arete, Alabama Hills. While the climbing is very nice, but short, its mostly about the setting w/ this one, and to that it lives up to in spades.
Ending Crack and Tree Root, Sespe. Worth the drive.
Tree Route, Dome Rock. I loved this one so much I lead it over and over back in the day. It is everything people say about it now. Tried to get back on it the last two summers. Fire last year, fever the year before. Third time's the charm this summer?
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j_ung
Jun 8, 2011, 12:36 PM
Post #28 of 76
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This is kinda regional, but I'll say Maginot Line on Shortoff. I heard about that thing for years before finally hopping on, and it was everything they said it would be—utterly fun climbing.
Angel's Arete at the New also lived up to the hype, which was, "perfect stone, small holds, scary as hell, you'll never forget it."
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jakedatc
Jun 8, 2011, 12:57 PM
Post #29 of 76
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Modern Times - gunks
Ant's Line - gunks
Orangahang - rumney
Social Outcast -rumney
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sungam
Jun 8, 2011, 2:47 PM
Post #30 of 76
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cracklover wrote: Oh, I've got another one Ancient Art in the Fishers. So cool... GO
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 8, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #31 of 76
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Thought of a few more:
Moby Grape - Cannon, NH
Children's Crusade - Whitehorse Ledge, NH
Exasperator - Squamish (wish it were longer, though)
Rock On - Squamish
Josh
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cracklover
Jun 8, 2011, 6:48 PM
Post #32 of 76
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jakedatc wrote: <snip> Social Outcast -rumney
Yeah, that thing really is fun. And soft for the grade. Yay easy 12!
GO
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rtwilli4
Jun 8, 2011, 6:58 PM
Post #33 of 76
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j_ung wrote: This is kinda regional, but I'll say Maginot Line on Shortoff. I heard about that thing for years before finally hopping on, and it was everything they said it would be—utterly fun climbing. Angel's Arete at the New also lived up to the hype, which was, "perfect stone, small holds, scary as hell, you'll never forget it."
I've been agreeing with most of your posts in all of the best, worst, most hyped threads...
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kachoong
Jun 8, 2011, 7:27 PM
Post #34 of 76
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j_ung wrote: This is kinda regional, but I'll say Maginot Line on Shortoff. I heard about that thing for years before finally hopping on, and it was everything they said it would be—utterly fun climbing. Angel's Arete at the New also lived up to the hype, which was, "perfect stone, small holds, scary as hell, you'll never forget it."
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kachoong
Jun 8, 2011, 7:35 PM
Post #35 of 76
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Also, no matter when you do it, this route will always be stellar.
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kachoong
Jun 8, 2011, 7:48 PM
Post #37 of 76
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Diphthong wrote: kachoong wrote: Also, no matter when you do it, this route will always be stellar. Post the other one.
You mean the one where Keith's leg broke?
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rtwilli4
Jun 8, 2011, 8:45 PM
Post #38 of 76
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That yellow ball gets me every time I see a picture of that route.
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snowey
Jun 8, 2011, 10:52 PM
Post #39 of 76
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Snake Dike - Yosemite
Nose - Yosemite
Trella - Kalymnos
Incredible Hand Crack - Indian Creek
Vampire - Tahquitz
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onceahardman
Jun 8, 2011, 11:22 PM
Post #40 of 76
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Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks
Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief
Drunkard's Delight, Gunks
Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne
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Diphthong
Jun 8, 2011, 11:42 PM
Post #41 of 76
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onceahardman wrote: Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne
Interesting, I probably would have put that one in the other thread.
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flesh
Jun 9, 2011, 12:03 AM
Post #42 of 76
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I've got a couple.
For the guy who mentioned fine jade, I agree.
I'll add
1. Lord of the Thais , rai lay beach, thailand (5.12b 5 pitches overhanging) The author says your unlikely to find a better multi pitch route anywhere, I agree. Perfect ledges on all belays. The initial 5.10 and 5.11s are perfect warm ups for the 12a and 12b pitch above, with a 5.10 finish. The 12a is a perfectly smooth very steep wall with only tufas to swing between, you must cut your feet a few times. The 12b pitch starts out feeling like your underclinging the bottom of a 747 and is beautiful climbing.
2. The nutcracker, yosimite valley 5.8, 5 pitches, just super classic.
For bouldering.
1. Hell Belly, moab utah, big bend, perfect feature climbing, almost holdless, just gotta squeeze the belly with hands and feet.
2. Total eclipse, fontainebleau
(This post was edited by flesh on Jun 9, 2011, 12:07 AM)
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yanqui
Jun 9, 2011, 3:33 AM
Post #43 of 76
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glytch wrote: Outer Space in Leavenworth, WA is unreal, and absolutely exceeded the hype.
This climb will always be special to me. I first did it in 1979 with some friends during spring break and we were the only people anywhere near the wall for the whole week. We got the beta from Dane Burns who had free soloed the thing for his first go. That had seemed goddamn heroic to me. I feel like this was this my first 5.8 "onsight" (or is it 5.9?) and I hadn't led much at that level when we went to do it. We used hexes and stoppers for protection, there were mountain goats on top and absolutely no other people anywhere around. The whole experience seemed down right magical. Later I went back to repeat the route at least a half a dozen times before I left Washington state in 1986 and every time it was good.
(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 11, 2011, 2:06 AM)
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amyas
Jun 9, 2011, 4:13 AM
Post #44 of 76
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Wicked Gravity at Lake Louise, if any of you all are into sport. And Canada. You never actually see your best holds and pretty creative resting needed. Plus once you're high enough you cant smell the outhouse or the horse poop anymore.
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rhythm164
Jun 9, 2011, 4:21 AM
Post #45 of 76
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Buddha in the Gunks, always swore I wouldn't do it but...it's awesome.
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cracklover
Jun 9, 2011, 3:03 PM
Post #46 of 76
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snowey wrote: <snip> Trella - Kalymnos
Indeed, this was a superb route. But did you try DNA? I think it's better (those were my two favorite routes on the island, BTW).
GO
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enigma
Jun 9, 2011, 11:16 PM
Post #47 of 76
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redonkulus wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate. Shit. I wasn't climbing 12's when I went to Thailand, so I completely ignored that route. I'll have to go back, I guess.
Some pictures of you climbing 12's might be a welcome addition to the thread.
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 9, 2011, 11:52 PM
Post #48 of 76
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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j_ung wrote: This is kinda regional, but I'll say Maginot Line on Shortoff. I heard about that thing for years before finally hopping on, and it was everything they said it would be—utterly fun climbing.
I haven't been there, but I really want to.
...and there's nothing wrong with being regional. Most of my list is.
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enigma
Jun 10, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #49 of 76
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onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne
Impressive list !
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BumpinUgly
Jun 10, 2011, 4:57 AM
Post #50 of 76
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 14
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El Matador at Devils Tower. No picture does it justice!
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