|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jun 23, 2011, 9:41 PM
Post #26 of 40
(2491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
sandeld wrote: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: Feel free to test and track your performance and if you are bold enough then post it here. Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: Anyone who says "I train differently" is begging to be asked how. So how? I'm a full-time electrical engineer and do personal training on the side. So, 3 days are spent in a traditional gym, usually 1 day mountain biking, and only 1 or 2 days climbing, either indoor or out. The days I'm in the gym, I focus on grip training using traditional implements and specific grip training implements, though, none of them are specific to climbing. Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: And lastly, if you want to judge your performance against your peers then enter a climbing competition. I fully expect most of you to call bs on the routes I've climbed, and that's fine, but even I know that I'm nowhere near ready for a climbing comp. lol However, if I can continue to progress as fast as I have, which I know could slow or come to a stop, I wouldn't count it out. I looooooove competition.
I do not mean this in a nasty way but i have to be honest, your progression does not strike me as anything other than normal. Not that their is anything at all wrong with that.
|
|
|
|
|
sandeld
Jun 23, 2011, 9:54 PM
Post #27 of 40
(2484 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2011
Posts: 38
|
^ Which is exactly why asked since you say that, and others say it'll take 15 years to get to a 5.12. lol
Thanks to all that have answered!
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jun 23, 2011, 10:19 PM
Post #28 of 40
(2479 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
sandeld wrote: ^ Which is exactly why asked since you say that, and others say it'll take 15 years to get to a 5.12. lol Thanks to all that have answered!
Ofc it does not take 15 year to get to 5.12 ;p. It just took jay that long.
|
|
|
|
|
Learner
Jun 23, 2011, 11:20 PM
Post #29 of 40
(2465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187
|
Dave,
First of all, outstanding progress! I've only been climbing for about 3 and a half months, but I know a lot of climbers and your progress does seem extraordinary. That is, the people I've met that have been climbing for less than a year are not climbing as hard as you. In my opinion, your climbing accomplishments are certainly not normal for how long you've been climbing. I'm sure you've worked hard, but apparently you also have a favorable predisposition for this sport. Congratulations.
I wanted to ask you something. On this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCJOlkurhdY
The route is for the holds marked with neon yellow tape. Yet, I see you use a number of holds that are off (have no tape on them at all). In the gyms I've been to, you are not allowed to use holds that have no tape on them for any route. Is there some reason these holds were on for this particular climb?
Nice job, nevertheless!
PS > Admit it, you started this thread to brag. 
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 23, 2011, 11:29 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
ensonik
Jun 24, 2011, 1:19 AM
Post #30 of 40
(2446 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2009
Posts: 134
|
Errr .... 5.11? 
I should possibly move to that area to boost my climbing grade bragging rights.
|
|
|
|
|
sandeld
Jun 24, 2011, 2:13 AM
Post #31 of 40
(2423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2011
Posts: 38
|
Learner wrote: Dave, First of all, outstanding progress! I've only been climbing for about 3 and a half months, but I know a lot of climbers and your progress does seem extraordinary. That is, the people I've met that have been climbing for less than a year are not climbing as hard as you. In my opinion, your climbing accomplishments are certainly not normal for how long you've been climbing. I'm sure you've worked hard, but apparently you also have a favorable predisposition for this sport. Congratulations. I wanted to ask you something. On this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCJOlkurhdY The route is for the holds marked with neon yellow tape. Yet, I see you use a number of holds that are off (have no tape on them at all). In the gyms I've been to, you are not allowed to use holds that have no tape on them for any route. Is there some reason these holds were on for this particular climb? Nice job, nevertheless! PS > Admit it, you started this thread to brag.
Thanks for the kind words. I've pretty much gone "full retard" with climbing. This will seem "out there", but most of my technique work is done by watching videos and replaying routes and specific moves over and over and over in my head. This is proven to work in any sport known to man, and given my busy schedule, it's really my only choice.
As for the route, if you pause the video at the beginning, it says "smearing is on". Meaning, I can use the wall to press my hands and feet against when there are no holds available. With that in mind, any of the holds I did use were definitely marked yellow.
Ha! I only start threads to brag on forums where I'm not a newcomer. I'm much too much of n00b here to start drawing *that* kind of attention to myself. lol
ensonik wrote: Errr .... 5.11? I should possibly move to that area to boost my climbing grade bragging rights.
I don't set or rate the routes, nor was that the one I was claiming. The one I'm claiming is called Stylin'. It's on pg. 130 of the Falcon Guide for MN and WI.
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Jun 24, 2011, 3:42 AM
Post #32 of 40
(2401 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
ensonik wrote: Errr .... 5.11? I should possibly move to that area to boost my climbing grade bragging rights.
5.11+... 5.9... what's the difference?
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 24, 2011, 3:50 AM
Post #33 of 40
(2397 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
TarHeelEMT wrote: ensonik wrote: Errr .... 5.11? I should possibly move to that area to boost my climbing grade bragging rights. 5.11+... 5.9... what's the difference?
Old-school 5.8.
|
|
|
|
|
Learner
Jun 24, 2011, 5:05 AM
Post #34 of 40
(2381 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187
|
sandeld wrote: Learner wrote: Dave, I wanted to ask you something. On this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCJOlkurhdY The route is for the holds marked with neon yellow tape. Yet, I see you use a number of holds that are off (have no tape on them at all). In the gyms I've been to, you are not allowed to use holds that have no tape on them for any route. Is there some reason these holds were on for this particular climb? Nice job, nevertheless! PS > Admit it, you started this thread to brag. As for the route, if you pause the video at the beginning, it says "smearing is on". Meaning, I can use the wall to press my hands and feet against when there are no holds available. With that in mind, any of the holds I did use were definitely marked yellow.
I wasn't talking about the smearing, I was talking about the last two handholds that you used on that wall on the right. (These would be the third then fourth holds you grabbed with your right hand on that wall.) This would be 1) the one you used the drop-knee on, then 2) the last one, which you used both as a handhold and a foothold. I still can't spot any yellow tape around either of these holds. Maybe it's the camera angle, or the light, or maybe the tape is above the holds instead of underneath them where they usually are.
Anyways, impressive progress in such a short period of time.
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 24, 2011, 5:11 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jun 24, 2011, 4:59 PM
Post #35 of 40
(2342 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
Quite an interesting route. At 0:38 it looked like you could have kept right hand on the lower hold to push off and stop body swinging over, then swapped feet and then right foot to share with the right hand hold. Instead of doing a pull up.
Just trying to help, not meant in a bad way.
Also at 1:40 (sorry for this ;p can't help it). You ''may'' have been able to lay off to the left and get hip in, then you would have been able to get your right foot to where your right hand was and then shared your right hand with your left. Then rock over and completely miss out the knee drop (that looked hard).
Yes, im going to shut up now.. sorry.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 24, 2011, 5:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
IsayAutumn
Jun 24, 2011, 6:20 PM
Post #36 of 40
(2324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355
|
ceebo wrote: Quite an interesting route. At 0:38 it looked like you could have kept right hand on the lower hold to push off and stop body swinging over, then swapped feet and then right foot to share with the right hand hold. Instead of doing a pull up. Just trying to help, not meant in a bad way. Also at 1:40 (sorry for this ;p can't help it). You ''may'' have been able to lay off to the left and get hip in, then you would have been able to get your right foot to where your right hand was and then shared your right hand with your left. Then rock over and completely miss out the knee drop (that looked hard). Yes, im going to shut up now.. sorry.
This is getting ridiculous.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jun 24, 2011, 10:27 PM
Post #37 of 40
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
ceebo wrote: enigma wrote: ceebo wrote: kachoong wrote: ceebo wrote: sandeld wrote: Individual progress, is, well, "individual", and there are many variables that contribute, but is there some kind of scale like, "after climbing for 'X' amount of time, you should be able to this rating"? Oh, and yes, route ratings are subjective too, this I understand. Just looking for some kind of general guideline. Thanks in advance! Just take you'r time.. you have plenty of it. Most people i meet as new climbers seem to be at on avg 5.9 climbers. You should work your way up the letters one at a time. If you spend around 18 months per letter you should reach 12.a in around 15 years give or take. That is steady progress, jay can confirm. That's a long time to reach five twelve. Of the people I know who have or can climb 5.12 none of them took that long to get there. Also, it's not a linear progression. Given no (or limited) injury, weekly training and a couple weekends a month outdoors, (and starting at leading 5.8) 5.10a should come within the first year. 5.11a should come in the next two years and 12a another two to three years after that. As said above though it will all depend on the individual, but that's been my general observation over the years for progression. For some it can take two years to reach 5.12, others may never get there given their motivation levels. Do you have any idea what so ever how perfect that reply was?  . You made my day, really. YASE ! Well, hope jay got it. I really tried on that one  .
4 word phrase, Anagram included !
Game In
|
|
|
|
|
Speed4TheNeed
Jun 24, 2011, 11:14 PM
Post #38 of 40
(2281 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 6, 2011
Posts: 51
|
Hindsight is always 20/20...unfortunately in some cases ;)
|
|
|
|
|
spikeddem
Jun 25, 2011, 5:09 PM
Post #39 of 40
(2234 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
|
For the record, Looking for Lust definitely isn't the tallest single pitch in MN. Single pitch sport climb, perhaps, but there are plenty of longer trad climbs along the north shore. Even Taylors Falls has a route that probably tops 70'.
Also, there are probably some slightly traversing lines that cover as much, if not more, distance. Two that come to mind would be Jumpstart To Something Good (this is a long link up), and Preemptive Strike. Preemptive strike is hardly traversing, but it feels pretty damn long when you're on it.
Looking for Lust used to be much longer (and easily the longest single pitch sport route in MN), but the chains got lowered to where they are now.
|
|
|
|
|
sandeld
Jun 27, 2011, 12:40 PM
Post #40 of 40
(2166 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2011
Posts: 38
|
^ Those are all true stories. I've had one, less than pleasant, trad experience and try to erase it from my memory. lol
I was going to try Jumpstart 2 weekends ago until it started raining. Lame
|
|
|
|
|
|
