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Lead belay preference palm up or palm down?
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healyje


Jun 28, 2011, 8:07 AM
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Re: [ilikepargo] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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ilikepargo wrote:
First, remember that, in nearly all circumstances, if your climber comes loose, your #1 concern is to slam that rope straight down and hold it.

Really? That is not and never will be where the rope goes when I hold a fall as a belayer. Is that really what they 'teach' these days?


Diphthong


Jun 28, 2011, 2:57 PM
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Re: [ilikepargo] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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ilikepargo wrote:
First, remember that, in nearly all circumstances, if your climber comes loose, your #1 concern is to slam that rope straight down and hold it.

How many ankles have you broken?


ilikepargo


Jun 28, 2011, 3:22 PM
Post #78 of 90 (1409 views)
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Re: [healyje] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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Many take the rope behind their hip (even more difficult and weak with the palm up). I don't see the point. First, it's a weird enough move and the hip is rounded enough that I do not believe it adds any strength at all to the move. Second, it turns the belay device sideways. Straight down puts sharper, truer angles on the belay device.


ilikepargo


Jun 28, 2011, 3:33 PM
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Re: [Diphthong] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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Zero. No climber has ever been injured in any significant way when I was belaying, whether TR or Lead. And I've caught plenty of falls.

Would you want to hold the rope in a way that is less secure?


csproul


Jun 28, 2011, 4:20 PM
Post #80 of 90 (1396 views)
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Re: [ilikepargo] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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ilikepargo wrote:
Zero. No climber has ever been injured in any significant way when I was belaying, whether TR or Lead. And I've caught plenty of falls.

Would you want to hold the rope in a way that is less secure?
Your assertion that palm down is more secure is debatable at best.

Although I agree that catching a fall is the primary concern of the belayer, it is not adequate to making a good belay. If you feel that your job ends there (and that is how your post came across) then I would not consider your belay acceptable. A good belay ends locked off, but does not necessarily begin there. I certainly don't want a belayer who will:
In reply to:
slam that rope straight down and hold it


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2011, 5:17 PM
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Re: [csproul] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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How funny would it be if angeleyes changed the thread title to "Masturbating preference palm up or palm down?"


healyje


Jun 28, 2011, 5:29 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
How funny would it be if angeleyes changed the thread title to "Masturbating preference palm up or palm down?"

It would certainly get straight to the meat of the matter.


sungam


Jun 28, 2011, 5:33 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
How funny would it be if angeleyes changed the thread title to "Masturbating preference palm up or palm down?"
We haven't had a good switcharoo for a while now.


Diphthong


Jun 28, 2011, 5:46 PM
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Re: [sungam] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?


edge


Jun 28, 2011, 5:47 PM
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Re: [Diphthong] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.


areyoumydude


Jun 28, 2011, 6:07 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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Re: [edge] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.

Palm up, palm down, whatever. Just don't jerk me off when I'm leading.


sungam


Jun 28, 2011, 6:17 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
edge wrote:
Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.

Palm up, palm down, whatever. Just don't jerk me off when I'm leading.
So, just double checking here, if I want to jerk you off, I should only do it at the belay, or when you are seconding?


Diphthong


Jun 28, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Re: [sungam] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
edge wrote:
Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.

Palm up, palm down, whatever. Just don't jerk me off when I'm leading.
So, just double checking here, if I want to jerk you off, I should only do it at the belay, or when you are seconding?

I'd hate to think that you guys are the types of people that would lead a climb and not have the common decency to give your second a reacharound.


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2011, 6:58 PM
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Re: [edge] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.

http://instantrimshot.com/...imshot&play=true

Turn your volume down.


areyoumydude


Jun 28, 2011, 7:29 PM
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Re: [sungam] Lead belay preference palm up or palm down? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
edge wrote:
Diphthong wrote:
Wait a sec, you mean this entire discussion isn't a euphemism for masturbating?

Beats me.

Palm up, palm down, whatever. Just don't jerk me off when I'm leading.
So, just double checking here, if I want to jerk you off, I should only do it at the belay, or when you are seconding?


Either that or after dinner and drinks.

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