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ACLSRN
Jul 17, 2011, 7:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2011
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Just picked up a set of these fairly lightly used - both for $160. can anyone share with me the pro's and con's of these tools? I've had Chouinard ice tools before back in the 80's that were fine tools and wonder how these models compare - tho I know there are newer 'leashless' more-radical shaped models now being sold and used...
Thanks,
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tolman_paul
Oct 20, 2011, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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I haven't used black prophets but have used X-15's which are very similar tools. I've also used the current generation of bd vipers, so here's how I'd compare the two:
The plus is you got a pair of tools for less than what you'd pay for a single current tool.
Now the downside. Until you get your form dialed, you will bash your knuckles on straight tools. With bashed knuckles, you'll climb less, and have less time to dial your form. I can't say why, but with the picks on those older tools, you have to swing them more and clear crud before they stick. With the straight shaft and hanging from leashes, you'll reduced the circulation in your hands, which will cause them to get cold faster. New tools with a shelf, you can make your placement, work your feet up, and have a second place to hold the tool on the ledge, which reduces the times you need to place the tools. I'd planned to get leashes for my vipers thinking I had to have them, but always used them leashless and didn't feel like I had to have leashes.
At least in my experience, modern tools make ice climbing much easier, and more enjoyable, from not bashing knuckles and cutting off the blood flow to your hands. If you search around, you should be able to pick up a pair of bd reactors for ~$300. Trip the prophets on e-bay to another unsuspecting cheapskate.
Modern tools are a game changer, well worth the money.
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sandstone
Oct 20, 2011, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Apr 21, 2004
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What he said.
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shoo
Oct 20, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
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ACLSRN wrote: Just picked up a set of these fairly lightly used - both for $160. can anyone share with me the pro's and con's of these tools? I've had Chouinard ice tools before back in the 80's that were fine tools and wonder how these models compare - tho I know there are newer 'leashless' more-radical shaped models now being sold and used... Thanks,
These are what I first climbed ice on. They were wonderful tools for their time. However, the only reason I would use them nowadays is for nostalgia. Modern tools have drastically changed techniques and general enjoyabiity of ice climbing. You are doing yourself no favors by intentionally dinosauring yourself, except perhaps to gain some false sense of awesomeness for using old school tools.
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