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justing_z71
Aug 12, 2011, 7:31 AM
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Ok me and a couple of friends were thinking of visiting linville gorge. But none of us have ever climbed with trad gear. Most of us have climbed routes only up to 5.9 but LG has some routes rated at 5.5 or so that I assume we could try. Would our lack of experience with trad gear keep us from being able to climb here?
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sungam
Aug 12, 2011, 7:58 AM
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justing_z71 wrote: Ok me and a couple of friends were thinking of visiting linville gorge. But none of us have ever climbed with trad gear. Most of us have climbed routes only up to 5.9 but LG has some routes rated at 5.5 or so that I assume we could try. Would our lack of experience with trad gear keep us from being able to climb here?
Or are you asking if you could lead them on gear not knowing anything about gear? Awful idea.
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justing_z71
Aug 12, 2011, 9:21 AM
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No Im not saying I should solo. And I know how to use the gear just have never done it before. My thinking is that yes I know I have no experience with trad climbing, but it is a 5.5. am I being to ambitous maybe?
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johnwesely
Aug 12, 2011, 10:50 AM
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justing_z71 wrote: No Im not saying I should solo. And I know how to use the gear just have never done it before.
No you don't.
My thinking is that yes I know I have no experience with trad climbing, but it is a 5.5. am I being to ambitous maybe?
Chances are that a 5.5 at Linville might feel as hard or harder than the sub 5.9 sport routes you are used to. Do you really want to be at or anywhere near your limit while essentially freesoloing, which is what you will be doing given your lack of experience? Not to mention that these routes are multiple pitches and very much in a wilderness setting. If something does go wrong, it is not going to be anything like an accident that occurs while cragging. For your own sake, find someone that knows what they are doing and learn to climb the right way.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Aug 12, 2011, 10:51 AM)
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j_ung
Aug 12, 2011, 11:29 AM
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I wouldn't, if I were you. It's a better idea to start your trad climbing on single-pitch routes, where you don't have manage multi-pitch transitions.
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naitch
Aug 12, 2011, 11:43 AM
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If you haven't lead trad before you don't "know" how to use gear. Big difference between experiential knowledge and book/head knowledge. A backcountry crag is not a good place to do your first lead - just not wise in my opinion. You say you climb 5.9. What's that mean? Gym, TR? Sport?
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noell
Aug 12, 2011, 3:49 PM
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My recommendation would be to go with someone that has climbed trad before and learn by doing.
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rsmillbern
Aug 12, 2011, 4:28 PM
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I will second almost everything said here. Start trad with someone who has some experience, or hire a guide. Linville is awesome, and a great place to learn trad (this is where I did), but I would strongly recommend starting slow.
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thatguyat99
Aug 12, 2011, 6:35 PM
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Linville Gorge is a good place to learn but probably not the best place to do your first ever trad lead. As said before, the routes there are almost all multi pitch. Whether it's 5.5 or not, it sounds as if you have never built an anchor, done a hanging belay, or know how to manage rope and gear on a multipitch trad route. Plus the remoteness of the Gorge and route finding as well the approaches to the climbs. This area is more adventurous than the local sport climbing crag.
I suggest finding someone that knows trad and do some single pitch stuff. If you have to go Linville then go with someone who has climbed there and knows trad. Enjoy and learn.
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justing_z71
Aug 12, 2011, 7:17 PM
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naitch wrote: If you haven't lead trad before you don't "know" how to use gear. Big difference between experiential knowledge and book/head knowledge. A backcountry crag is not a good place to do your first lead - just not wise in my opinion. You say you climb 5.9. What's that mean? Gym, TR? Sport?
Sport
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scrapedape
Aug 13, 2011, 4:00 PM
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justing_z71 wrote: Ok me and a couple of friends were thinking of visiting linville gorge. But none of us have ever climbed with trad gear. Most of us have climbed routes only up to 5.9 but LG has some routes rated at 5.5 or so that I assume we could try. Would our lack of experience with trad gear keep us from being able to climb here?
A lack of experience with trad gear certainly can't stop you from climbing there. But it may not be the most prudent thing to do, for a couple of reasons. First, it's questionable whether it is ever a good idea to try to teach yourself how to place gear and manage the belay system. You can search around this forum for a lot of advice on ways to learn these skills before you get out on lead, but I think most folks would agree that the preferred approach is to learn by following someone who already knows what he or she is doing.
Second, Linville is a somewhat remote setting. Parts of it could fairly be called wilderness - rough trail access and spotty or nonexistent cell phone service. Even Table Rock is an hour's drive from the nearest real town.
Finally, from what I recall, the protection opportunities are not always abundant. One thing you want in your early leads is not just easy climbing, but plenty of places to place gear.
The grades on the easier routes at Linville are typical for NC, which is to say neither sandbagged nor soft. However I can't speak to how stiff the grades are at your local sport crag, so 5.9 there may not be comparable to 5.9 at Linville. I think a safe number is indeed about 4 number grades below your limit. You have to realize that when you are learning to lead, you are essentially free soloing.
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rtwilli4
Aug 13, 2011, 4:22 PM
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I'll add just one more thing. If you aren't used to being out in the back country, you'll quickly get lost in Linville. Not horribly so, but enough to substantially shorten your amount of climbing time. Linville isn't really THAT far away from civ, but it's far enough to be mentioned. If you have some sort of problem, be it with climbing, approaching or descending, rescue is slow, if available at all.
Getting familiar w/ bush-whacking, route finding and descent options are all things to do before you head into the gorge, even if it is just Table Rock. And it sounds like you should add "learn how to climb" to last list before getting on the Mummy, Daddy or the Prow or any other 5.5's you've seen on the internet.
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horseshoe
Aug 13, 2011, 11:00 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: I'll add just one more thing. If you aren't used to being out in the back country, you'll quickly get lost in Linville. Not horribly so, but enough to substantially shorten your amount of climbing time. Linville isn't really THAT far away from civ, but it's far enough to be mentioned. If you have some sort of problem, be it with climbing, approaching or descending, rescue is slow, if available at all. Getting familiar w/ bush-whacking, route finding and descent options are all things to do before you head into the gorge, even if it is just Table Rock. And it sounds like you should add "learn how to climb" to last list before getting on the Mummy, Daddy or the Prow or any other 5.5's you've seen on the internet.
Yes, it is very easy to get lost in the Gorge--especially for a first time visitor! It is also easy to get on the wrong route and/or to get lost on a route. It is often difficult to hear your belayer. Thunder storms can develop very quickly--and depending on your location you may have very little warning.
The Gorge is a great place to climb--it just requires a well-developed skill set for trail finding, route finding, self rescue, etc.
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