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ionic_phil
Aug 16, 2011, 11:14 AM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2011
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hey guys, just wondering if this is a good anchor system. i noticed from my research it is all made of one sling, so if the sling failed the whole anchor system is screwed. worth the money?? should i buy it and just back it up with another secondary anchor on a climb?
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sungam
Aug 16, 2011, 11:33 AM
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It's not ideal as a toprope anchor. If one piece of pro blows then the extension is pretty big. And as you said it's all one strand. It's usefulness is in it's speed of set-up - not something you really need to worry about if you are not in a hurry.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 16, 2011, 2:11 PM
Post #3 of 14
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Look at the name of this thing:
Do you see ALPINE in the title? This is because this sort of thing is useful in places where time and weight is of essence, and climbers (hopefully experienced enough to know what they are doing) are willing to trade some redundancy for ease and speed of setting it up.
Form TRANGO's description:
In reply to: Use it on ice or in the alpine for a speedy anchor, carry it on multi-pitch bolt routes for a quick anchor at the belays or use it as a super long runner. While ideally suited as a self-adjusting anchor system, it can be made non-extending by tying an overhand knot in the center loop (shown) or by clove-hitching at each protection point.
So, is it a good anchor system-- sure is, for appropriate situations. But is it a good anchor system for you to set up toprope on a sport climb? Nope, it is not.
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Kartessa
Aug 17, 2011, 2:53 AM
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I'll give you the best answer:
It depends
Everything is good for something, but since you didn't specify what you were looking to do with it, it's hard to give you a definite answer.
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ionic_phil
Aug 17, 2011, 11:41 AM
Post #5 of 14
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i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette?
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sungam
Aug 17, 2011, 11:49 AM
Post #6 of 14
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ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette?
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Kartessa
Aug 17, 2011, 12:59 PM
Post #7 of 14
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ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette?
I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors.
a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer.
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caughtinside
Aug 17, 2011, 6:54 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Kartessa wrote: ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette? I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors. a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer.
n00b.
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Kartessa
Aug 17, 2011, 6:56 PM
Post #9 of 14
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caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette? I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors. a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer. n00b.
How about p00r?
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caughtinside
Aug 17, 2011, 7:20 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Kartessa wrote: caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette? I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors. a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer. n00b. How about p00r?
Well then you are in luck, as you don't need any of that stuff to sport climb.
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Kartessa
Aug 17, 2011, 7:26 PM
Post #11 of 14
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caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette? I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors. a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer. n00b. How about p00r? Well then you are in luck, as you don't need any of that stuff to sport climb.
He sed MP... I tie the slings to adjust how close/far I am from the belay anchors.
Comfort is key.
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binrat
Aug 17, 2011, 7:48 PM
Post #12 of 14
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ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette?
So I say yes to slings, webbing and cordelette.
(This post was edited by binrat on Aug 17, 2011, 7:52 PM)
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caughtinside
Aug 17, 2011, 9:12 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Kartessa wrote: caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: caughtinside wrote: Kartessa wrote: ionic_phil wrote: i want to do some multi pitch sport climbs, should i just get some slings, webbing and cordelette? I'm a 2x120cm sling kind of gal for my sport anchors. a PAS would probably work a little better and cost the same as an Alpine Equalizer. n00b. How about p00r? Well then you are in luck, as you don't need any of that stuff to sport climb. He sed MP... I tie the slings to adjust how close/far I am from the belay anchors. Comfort is key.
To each their own I suppose. I tie the rope to adjust how close/far away I am from the anchor.
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TarHeelEMT
Aug 18, 2011, 4:48 AM
Post #14 of 14
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Multi-pitch with bolted anchors for me means a double length sling with an overhand knot for a master point. Cheap and easy.
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