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wongpong
Aug 19, 2011, 3:58 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 15
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Any info on the 3 climb on the south east face of Mount Fairview would be a appreciated. these climb are located close to Lake louise AB. these climb look super Rad but with limited trad experience, i want to make sure I 'm not trying to bite more than i can.
Trad Anchor?
Descent?
experience?
Grades (the 10B, 10C climb) sustained?
Thank you!!
(This post was edited by wongpong on Aug 19, 2011, 4:24 AM)
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brews
Aug 19, 2011, 9:49 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: May 16, 2002
Posts: 41
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Did "screams from the balcony" a couple years ago. The .11b crux pitch at the top is amazing. Overhanging generally big holds with mostly bolts for pro. Generally the route gets better and less scary as you get higher. The "4th" class at the bottom is definately worth roping up for. The first pitch had a hard first move over a roof (not that hard once you find the hold) and then a long corner with a lot of broken sometimes loose rock. Fixed anchors but you need 2 ropes to rappel the route (recommended descent).
"toys in the attic" is the other route there that is reportedly good but a sandbag (at least the crux) so be prepared.
Used to be more info on the banff rock site but now I only see the SFTB info: http://www.banffrock.ca/pdfs/Screams%20From%20The%20Balcony.pdf
The approach takes a while if you don't know where you're going, so get an early start.
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wongpong
Aug 19, 2011, 10:53 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the info. glad to know that the 11b is bolted
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