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Japa
Jul 30, 2011, 5:57 AM
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1. For how long have you been climbing, what's your current level for Sport/bouldering (indoors and outdoors) and how did you do it.
2. Has anyone here followed the self couched climber training program or other training programs and how well did it work for you?
3. Friend of mine suggested that I should wait until I'm doing v5's to start recruitment training. According to him i'm better of just putting millage on till there. Your thoughts?
(Pardon my grammar English is my second language)
I'm interested to hear what you guys think. Thanks
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healyje
Jul 30, 2011, 10:24 AM
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I don't climb for grades - I climb for the creativity of the line with grade being entirely secondary.
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Japa
Jul 30, 2011, 3:23 PM
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Nothing wrong with that, people climb for all kinds of reasons including "because it's there"
Since your goal is to climb for creativity maybe a training program could be useful for you.
The better/stronger/more technical climber you are will allow you to express your creativity on the rock/wall better right?
(This post was edited by Japa on Jul 30, 2011, 3:30 PM)
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healyje
Jul 31, 2011, 5:01 AM
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Japa wrote: Since your goal is to climb for creativity maybe a training program could be useful for you. The better/stronger/more technical climber you are will allow you to express your creativity on the rock/wall better right?
I'm really not a training personality, but rather entirely interest driven - either something interests me or it doesn't, training never has. I've never had an issue keeping up with those who train, it's just a different mindset and approach. Some people need regularity and structure, others avoid it at all cost.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Aug 1, 2011, 1:02 PM
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Japa wrote: 1. For how long have you been climbing, what's your current level for Sport/bouldering (indoors and outdoors) and how did you do it. 2. Has anyone here followed the self couched climber training program or other training programs and how well did it work for you? 3. Friend of mine suggested that I should wait until I'm doing v5's to start recruitment training. According to him i'm better of just putting millage on till there. Your thoughts?
Ive been climbing for just over 2 years and I climb because its fun and I enjoy it. Im a strong 5.12/V6 outdoor climber but my partner is a solid 5.14/V10 kind of guy. I was always told the best training is to just go climb hard and push yourself so that what I do. I watch, I listen and I learn from much stronger climbers than myself and its helped tremendously.
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TheNags
Aug 2, 2011, 2:26 AM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2011
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Japa wrote: 1. For how long have you been climbing, what's your current level for Sport/bouldering (indoors and outdoors) and how did you do it. 2. Has anyone here followed the self couched climber training program or other training programs and how well did it work for you? 3. Friend of mine suggested that I should wait until I'm doing v5's to start recruitment training. According to him i'm better of just putting millage on till there. Your thoughts? (Pardon my grammar English is my second language) I'm interested to hear what you guys think. Thanks
I am a total n00b that has only been climbing for about 3 months now. I started out constantly trying to push to a higher graded climb to feel like I was making progress. one of my friends who has been climbing for about 9 months told me to relax and enjoy the climb. over the next 2 weeks I went from leading a 5.10a to leading a 5.10d (my first) on sunday. For me personally, forgetting about the grade focusing on climbing clean and enjoying myself helped me tons. I just sended my first v4/5 (on the 4th try lol). Like I said, I am a total n00b so take it with a very large grain of salt. hope this helps!
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mr.tastycakes
Aug 2, 2011, 3:49 PM
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I wouldn't say I "climb for the grades" but I enjoy a good challenge, and most of the routes I'm inspired to attempt are at the edge of, or just beyond, my abilities. They're also all multi-pitch trad routes, so I'm not much of a sport climber or boulderer.
Anyways, I've been climbing for about 4 years and my outdoor, consistent sport/bouldering level is 5.11/V4, meaning I'll onsight/flash or quickly repoint at those levels. Pretty mediocre, but I'm not a natural climbing talent and I'm too damn heavy for the high levels of this sport. Indoors it's more like 5.12/V6 because my gym is soft.
I bought the SCC as a beginner and have been applying it ever since, mainly to gym workouts. Great book, IMO. It's working out OK, i suppose. It'd be nice to be a better climber, but I don't blame the book for my own shortcomings. I don't hangboard or campus or anything like that. Just movement drills and structured climbing for conditioning. I like to rack up a lot of mileage, more than most of my partners.
Bouldering beyond your current limit is a form of recruitment training; most people just call it "working a project." If you never do it, how are you ever going to send a problem at the next grade? Try to send some V5's; be careful on or avoid stressful crimps and two finger pockets; don't do it too often. Definitely don't play around on the campus board.
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Mariofercol
Aug 2, 2011, 5:38 PM
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I got and A for effort 
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MarcelS
Aug 3, 2011, 2:58 PM
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Japa wrote: 1. For how long have you been climbing, what's your current level for Sport/bouldering (indoors and outdoors) and how did you do it.
Indoor toprope 6b (5.10c)
Indoor lead: 6a (5.10a)
Outdoor lead: 6a (5.10a)
Bouldering I never did so far, so I would not know.
Japa wrote: 2. Has anyone here followed the self couched climber training program or other training programs and how well did it work for you?
Japa wrote: 3. Friend of mine suggested that I should wait until I'm doing v5's to start recruitment training. According to him i'm better of just putting millage on till there. Your thoughts?
One thing is for sure: climbing itself is a great training and much more fun then exercises 
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ebreezy49
Aug 20, 2011, 12:28 AM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2011
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CLIMB!! all the time. Climb everyday you can. i have been climbing for a little over a year now and im climbing 5.12s and onsighting everything under that. I dont train i just love to climb. One thing that really helps in starting out gym climbing. Its really easy to just go and climb all day when they are open. So just do a few months gym climbing. (sorry everyone that hates fake rock) But then go out to real rock and kick some ass!
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flesh
Aug 23, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Japa wrote: 1. For how long have you been climbing, what's your current level for Sport/bouldering (indoors and outdoors) and how did you do it. 2. Has anyone here followed the self couched climber training program or other training programs and how well did it work for you? 3. Friend of mine suggested that I should wait until I'm doing v5's to start recruitment training. According to him i'm better of just putting millage on till there. Your thoughts? (Pardon my grammar English is my second language) I'm interested to hear what you guys think. Thanks
I climb because I love it, if nothing was rated I would still love to climb. With ratings or not, I would try to push myself to improve as much as possible, for me the greatest excitement comes when I do something harder than I've ever done before. For me there's nothing quite like seeing hard work pay off and that rare moment where it feels like I became something better than I had dreamed before. Becoming my dreams is what I love and live for. If your dream is a 5.10 5k foot wall in patagonia, sweet, if it's v14, sweet. Make it happen.
Your buddies right, get lots of mileage, after you've climbed long enough you'll realize how inconsequential the difficulty of the climbs your climbing in any certain amount of time really is. I'd rather be the guy who took 10 years to climb 5.14 than the guy who climbed 5.12 in 3 months and never fully realized his potential. To surprise yourself and obliterate all preconceived notions and drown out ego, this is a beautiful thing. Climbing is one way to do this.
Most of us have many years to improve, find that balance point that will allow you to make continual progress over the next 10-20 years... don't worry so much about comparing yourself to others. It's all subjective anyway.
I bouldered with a girl who climbs 5.14 yesterday, she couldn't touch the boulders I floated up, I can't touch her 100 foot resistance routes, who's better? Doesn't matter, we have different strengths. Find yours...
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