Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
If I was a Viking warrior I would kill you with my Axe for saying I am so weak at climbing. If I was a Spanish conquistador I would fee you to my dog for your shameful comparison. Since I am a long distance Polynesian fisherman I sau Ufa Kefe to you Melani. Agreed, Dean potter soloing 5.13 is a progression, slinging hexes on a 5.4 is the past.
didn't get it, did you? camhead said "slinging hexes..." not placing them. the 5.4 is being soloed- the hexes are being slung at japanese kamikaze pilots attempting to torp a pennsylvania crag! tradition of boldness indeed!
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.
does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....
This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.
In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.
...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.
Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.
you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.
In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.
...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.
Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.
you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.
Well that is marvelous. And very proud we are of you.
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years.
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years.
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years.
The only reason why that's reasonably funny is because he's a history professor of some sort, so he kind of had a few years to think about it.
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.
In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.
...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.
Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.
you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.
Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.
In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.
...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.
Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.
you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.
Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.
does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....
This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.
Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.
I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.
so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.
Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.
I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.
so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.
Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.
I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.
so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.
Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights. Easy going ,friendly climbers, Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting . mmnn smells great. festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.
Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.
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