Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.
Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.
I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.
so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.
Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights. Easy going ,friendly climbers, Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting . mmnn smells great. festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.
Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP
It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.
so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?
....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...
(This post was edited by superchuffer on Aug 27, 2011, 9:43 PM)
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP
It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.
so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?
....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...
Stop complaining on the internets and just go retro whatever route you think deserves moar bolts. In most places it's within yore legal rights.
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP
It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.
so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?
....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...
Well it's spiritual because the whole time the FA is running it out he's thinking, "Gawd I hope I don't fall."