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Marylandclimber
Sep 8, 2011, 7:42 PM
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Whats the point of using a sling on a peice of protection? They say it "extends it" but why extend it? And also, do you do 2 carabiners on a sling and clip one of it them to the rope and other to protection?
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dagibbs
Sep 8, 2011, 7:49 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: Whats the point of using a sling on a peice of protection? They say it "extends it" but why extend it? And also, do you do 2 carabiners on a sling and clip one of it them to the rope and other to protection?
This has got to be in an FAQ somewhere...
You extend it for a couple reasons:
1) so that the path of the rope on a route that is not straight up, one that wanders, is straighter. This results in less, sometimes far less, rope drag.
2) So that movement of the rope is not transmitted to the piece. If you take a piece of pro and wiggle it around -- it may shift, and because of this, it may not hold as expected/wanted, or it may even lift completely out. Extending the piece, especially with a longish sling, reduces this behaviour.
And, yes, generally this is done with 2 'biners on either end of a sling -- one clipped to the pieces, the other to the rope.
When dealing with bolts (sport climbing), issue 2 doesn't exist. Issue 1 often doesn't exist either -- though, on longer or wandering sport routes, rope drag may, still, be an issue -- and extending may be worth considering in some cases there, too.
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jacques
Sep 8, 2011, 9:26 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: Whats the point of using a sling on a peice of protection?
If you use just the rope and a carabiner, your protection will pull out.
But better to follow a leader for a year and see many reason that we forgot until we need it...or take a course.
It is not complicated because we must use it under stress. But many simple think put togheter make a c omplex think.
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tolman_paul
Sep 8, 2011, 10:04 PM
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As mentioned, there is a twofold reason to use a sling.
As the rope moves through a carabiner, it has enough drag that it can move the piece it is clipped to, sometimes in the case of a nut that has a wire stem and hasn't been well set in the crack, it's enough force to remove the piece, a rather un-nerving experience. In the case of cams, the cam can walk deeper into the crack, sometimes into a position where it will no longer hold a fall, sometimes into a location that is impossible to remove the cam.
The other reason is to keep the rope running as straight and smooth as possible. Most climbs meander somewhat, so extending the placement with a sling will allow the rope to run straighter. It's suprising how a few zig zags can make for untolerable rope drag.
Yes, two biners per sling and I typically double full length slings. More often than not a 1/2 length sling is just the right length, and it's easy enough to unclip one of the loops to extend the sling. When the second is cleaning he or she can just sling it over their shoulder.
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aprice00
Sep 8, 2011, 11:05 PM
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jacques wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: Whats the point of using a sling on a peice of protection? If you use just the rope and a carabiner, your protection will pull out. But better to follow a leader for a year and see many reason that we forgot until we need it...or take a course. It is not complicated because we must use it under stress. But many simple think put togheter make a c omplex think.
For God's sake Jacques look up the difference between Think and Thing.
That is all
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olderic
Sep 9, 2011, 3:06 AM
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dagibbs wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: Whats the point of using a sling on a peice of protection? They say it "extends it" but why extend it? And also, do you do 2 carabiners on a sling and clip one of it them to the rope and other to protection? This has got to be in an FAQ somewhere... You extend it for a couple reasons: 1) so that the path of the rope on a route that is not straight up, one that wanders, is straighter. This results in less, sometimes far less, rope drag. 2) So that movement of the rope is not transmitted to the piece. If you take a piece of pro and wiggle it around -- it may shift, and because of this, it may not hold as expected/wanted, or it may even lift completely out. Extending the piece, especially with a longish sling, reduces this behaviour. And, yes, generally this is done with 2 'biners on either end of a sling -- one clipped to the pieces, the other to the rope. When dealing with bolts (sport climbing), issue 2 doesn't exist. Issue 1 often doesn't exist either -- though, on longer or wandering sport routes, rope drag may, still, be an issue -- and extending may be worth considering in some cases there, too.
This is a fine answer. Why couldn't this thread have stopped then instead of having all these half baked responses attempting to reiterate the same thing and doing a lousy job? Robbins answered this in Basic Rockcraft 40+ years ago. No need to reinvent the wheel (answer).
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 9, 2011, 4:46 PM
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jacques wrote: But many simple think put togheter make a c omplex think.
Once again Jacques, you have left me perplexed.
Josh
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jeepnphreak
Sep 10, 2011, 10:54 PM
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jacques wrote: But many simple think put togheter make a c omplex think.
Being from Quebec Canada I m going to guess french is your first language, but this line made my day thanks!
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