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Marylandclimber
Sep 10, 2011, 6:19 PM
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So lets say your climbing a pinnacle. You get to the top and want to get lowered. Could you hammer two pitons into a crack ONTOP of the climb then put two fixed carabiners and lower of that?
Also, if one of your cams has dirt and such in it, how can you clean it?
(This post was edited by Marylandclimber on Sep 10, 2011, 6:20 PM)
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JimTitt
Sep 10, 2011, 6:42 PM
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Of course.
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jeepnphreak
Sep 10, 2011, 10:49 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: So lets say your climbing a pinnacle. You get to the top and want to get lowered. Could you hammer two pitons into a crack ONTOP of the climb then put two fixed carabiners and lower of that?[/qutoe] You bet! if the rock is solid and not some really sh@# sand stone. Just make sure the pitons are good and solid and you will be good to go Marylandclimber wrote: Also, if one of your cams has dirt and such in it, how can you clean it? Get a sink/bucket/tub with a bit of mild soap and water and swish the cam around while workign the trigger. Most of the grit and crud will wash out. Then dry the cam well or air dry it for a day and give the axles and springs a shot of cam lube/ manufacturer recommends. I use Metelous cam lube on my cams.
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gunkiemike
Sep 15, 2011, 10:53 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: So lets say your climbing a pinnacle. You get to the top and want to get lowered. Could you hammer two pitons into a crack ONTOP of the climb then put two fixed carabiners and lower of that? Also, if one of your cams has dirt and such in it, how can you clean it?
We'll talk about that dirty cam AFTER you've come down off the pinnacle with it. Not much you can do with it up there.
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tolman_paul
Sep 16, 2011, 12:56 AM
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You could do that, but you'd likely find that having your rope rubbing over the top of the pinnacle tears it up. Hence the preference would be to set up a rappell. And rap stations are generally bolts, not pitons. Cracks have a tendancy to grow and shrink over time, hence pitons are not the best choice for permanent protection. And for a rap station, no reason to leave biners when a rap ring on a sling will suffice.
Then again if the pinnacle is less than a 1/2 rope high, you can anchor the rope at the base of the climb, and rap off the other side without leaving permanent gear.
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guangzhou
Sep 16, 2011, 9:28 AM
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You and your partner could also simu-rap on either side of the pinnacle.
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rtwilli4
Sep 18, 2011, 5:32 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: You could do that, but you'd likely find that having your rope rubbing over the top of the pinnacle tears it up. Hence the preference would be to set up a rappell. And rap stations are generally bolts, not pitons. Cracks have a tendancy to grow and shrink over time, hence pitons are not the best choice for permanent protection. And for a rap station, no reason to leave biners when a rap ring on a sling will suffice. Then again if the pinnacle is less than a 1/2 rope high, you can anchor the rope at the base of the climb, and rap off the other side without leaving permanent gear.
All he needs to do is get down... why should he put in a permanent rap station? Do you carry a drill around w/ you?
And how the fuck are you going to anchor the rope to the base of the climb when you are up on top of a pinnacle? Nice try, but that's not gonna work unless your belayer is still down there, in which case you're able to get down the other side but must leave all your gear on the climb.
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Rudmin
Sep 18, 2011, 6:04 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: And how the fuck are you going to anchor the rope to the base of the climb when you are up on top of a pinnacle? Nice try, but that's not gonna work unless your belayer is still down there, in which case you're able to get down the other side but must leave all your gear on the climb.
Simulrap off opposite sides?
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rtwilli4
Sep 18, 2011, 6:12 PM
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That would work, but somehow I don't think that's what he meant by "anchoring the rope at the base of the climb."
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