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illusiondweller
Oct 18, 2011, 8:10 AM
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Only going to have a few days in the City of Rocks just before Thanksgiving, before heading east so, what moderate cracks MUST I do to make a lasting impression on this first time visitor?
(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Oct 18, 2011, 8:12 AM)
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camhead
Oct 18, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Not sure what you mean by moderate; as I recall you are solid on Woodson cracks at least up to 5.11, aren't you?
Anyway, at that time of year you'll definitely be chasing sun (if you don't get hit with a snowstorm, which is likely), so check these out:
Wheat Thin (afternoon sun), Intruding Dike (5.7)
Rye Crisp (5.8, afternoon sun)
Z-Crack (5.9, not super classic, but for some reason there aren't as many 5.9 cracks at the City as other grades)
Bloody Fingers, Thin Slice (5.10a), both afternoon sun.
White Lightening, 10a
There are also a lot of great 5.11s, Crack of Doom, Terror of Tiny Town, Singapore, Harvest, Scar Tissue, Interceptor.
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camhead
Oct 18, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Oh, and I almost forgot a few more. Skyline (5.8), Columbian Crack (5.7), and Brown Flake (5.10+).
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illusiondweller
Oct 18, 2011, 5:36 PM
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I'll take that as a compliment although, bouldering out problems that you have memorized over many years and leading full pitches are two different worlds. Moderate? Yes, up to 5.10, isn't that a moderate? I guess I'll be a bit late in the season then? Thanks for the good list. Nothing is set in stone yet but at least I'll have something to shoot for. Anybody in particular that you'd reccommend contacting up there as a consumate guide/partner?
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camhead
Oct 18, 2011, 5:45 PM
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Heh, yeah, that was supposed to be a compliment. I also think that compared to Woodson, you may find City grades to be a little softer.
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who gets out there much any more. Good luck on catching some good weather there. The Bingham book is quite sufficient for finding the classic routes, though.
(This post was edited by camhead on Oct 18, 2011, 5:46 PM)
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caughtinside
Oct 18, 2011, 10:48 PM
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I was just there last month. For the list, I went to mountainproject and clicked on the best routes for you in this area link, and selected 5.8-.11c, with at least 3 of 4 stars. I got a great list, everything I did on it was top quality.
I think it lets you winnow out sport routes if you don't want to clip many bolts. I thought the sport routes there were quite fun and worth doing though.
Seems like Thanksgiving could be hit or miss on the weather, so maybe have a backup plan.
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damienclimber
Oct 19, 2011, 9:39 AM
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camhead wrote: Not sure what you mean by moderate; as I recall you are solid on Woodson cracks at least up to 5.11, aren't you? Anyway, at that time of year you'll definitely be chasing sun (if you don't get hit with a snowstorm, which is likely), so check these out: Wheat Thin (afternoon sun), Intruding Dike (5.7) Rye Crisp (5.8, afternoon sun) Z-Crack (5.9, not super classic, but for some reason there aren't as many 5.9 cracks at the City as other grades) Bloody Fingers, Thin Slice (5.10a), both afternoon sun. White Lightening, 10a There are also a lot of great 5.11s, Crack of Doom, Terror of Tiny Town, Singapore, Harvest, Scar Tissue, Interceptor.
Good List. I enjoyed climbing there quite a bit. It has a good easygoing feel.
Expensive for camping.
I thought rye crisp and wheat thin are more flakes, versus a hand jam type crack.
Wouldn't you say the grades are soft comparison to J. Tree?
That would be a great place to live nearby. It still has a very unspoiled natural aura.
I do agree with CI it might be cool around Thanksgiving but with some long underwear, a campsite protected by rocks and caves I think you'll manage. Unless you are wimpy 
I met and climbed with Jim Bridwell which was a treat.
He made up his own routes. His partner didn't like his creative climbs, but I had fun.
I think I still have the guidebook, I went with some cool easy going people .
Alot of fun. their are cowboys, with blue heelers . which I teased. good times. They told me their puppies were ferocious. HA HA! But they do round up cows.
The rock is smoother than jtree. 10's are more like 9's because there are so many stances, holds. and flakes.
For instance Spincter Quits in Jtree ia harder than 10c in the city.
Not as soft as Red Rocks. RR is by far one of the softest grades. don' you think?
Woodson , harder for sure.
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