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ZeroContent
Nov 20, 2011, 2:45 AM
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I've been looking at snagging a Beal Booster III for next season and found the odd statement on Beal's site that this rope is intended for "Very Experienced Climbers." What makes a rope classified as for "Very Experienced Climbers"?
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mikebee
Nov 20, 2011, 3:15 AM
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The main suggestion by Beal is that a skinnier rope will be harder to belay with, thus a more experienced belayer will have better control of the relatively skinny rope.
I'd suggest that in addition to that factor, a slightly thinner rope is less durable, and would require better care (keeping it away from sharp edges etc). Generally noticing things like sharp edges becomes more instinctive as you climb more.
I wouldn't stress too much about it though.
What are you wanting to use the rope for?
edited for clarity
(This post was edited by mikebee on Nov 20, 2011, 4:34 AM)
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rock_fencer
Nov 20, 2011, 3:19 AM
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i would second the argument for belaying. This rope has a ridiculous amount of stretch to it. Part of why i like it so much. I've had mine for three years and its time to get a new one.
T
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JAB
Nov 20, 2011, 8:47 AM
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Inexperienced belayer (used to fat 10.2 mm ropes & rare falls) + regular ATC + heavier climber + slick rope + unexpected lead fall = crater
That's why.
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ZeroContent
Nov 20, 2011, 1:55 PM
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mikebee wrote: The main suggestion by Beal is that a skinnier rope will be harder to belay with, thus a more experienced belayer will have better control of the relatively skinny rope. I'd suggest that in addition to that factor, a slightly thinner rope is less durable, and would require better care (keeping it away from sharp edges etc). Generally noticing things like sharp edges becomes more instinctive as you climb more. I wouldn't stress too much about it though. What are you wanting to use the rope for?
Well that clears that up then. Since we've climbed on other peoples 9.4 ropes before without incident we should be fine there. And as far as sharp edges we're always very aware of any rope on rock drag.
It'll mostly be for sport climbing but I wanted to snag this rope for moving into some trad next season so the low impact force was appealing with still having a pretty good fall count. Plus we've been climbing on pretty much all my partner's gear so I can bring something useful to the party.
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mattm
Nov 20, 2011, 3:08 PM
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ZeroContent wrote: mikebee wrote: The main suggestion by Beal is that a skinnier rope will be harder to belay with, thus a more experienced belayer will have better control of the relatively skinny rope. I'd suggest that in addition to that factor, a slightly thinner rope is less durable, and would require better care (keeping it away from sharp edges etc). Generally noticing things like sharp edges becomes more instinctive as you climb more. I wouldn't stress too much about it though. What are you wanting to use the rope for? Well that clears that up then. Since we've climbed on other peoples 9.4 ropes before without incident we should be fine there. And as far as sharp edges we're always very aware of any rope on rock drag. It'll mostly be for sport climbing but I wanted to snag this rope for moving into some trad next season so the low impact force was appealing with still having a pretty good fall count. Plus we've been climbing on pretty much all my partner's gear so I can bring something useful to the party.
Couple things from YEARS of Beal use (among others).
Beal ropes tend to be thinner for their stated size than other brands. A Beal Booster 9.7mm will feel like other brands 9.5mm. Part of this is how Beal makes their ropes. They tend to have a less compact weave (the rope is softer and more supple) which makes the easy to handle but when compressed in a GriGri, over a carabiner etc etc they flatten out and appear quite thin. I've been using their 10.2mm Flyer for YEARS and most partners think it's like their 9.8mm Sterlings...
Beal's sheath coating makes them SUPER SLICK when new. It helps with durability but be aware that, again, it's a different animal than other ropes.
I'd look at something else if the Booster is going to be your ONLY rope for climbing. Beals are FANTASTIC ropes with supple handling and SOFT catches (low impact forces). However, those handling characteristics mean they don't hold up as well to heavy use. My Beals get pulled out for routes with THIN pro or RedPoint days. Using it as a "daily driver" will kill it faster than most would like.
Beal is spot on with their cautionary statement. Skinny ropes need to be treated as a more specialized tool.
I've been very happy with Edelweiss ropes in the past as my "abuse" ropes. Their newly revamped line has really good specs and they can be found at better prices than Beal. Check out their Element 2 or Curve.
Standard Caveat: Any rope "opinion" will vary greatly. On a forum it's nearly guaranteed that my experience with a rope and/or brand will vary greatly from someone else's.
So with that in mind, I'd look elsewhere for a rope if you plan on the Booster being your sole rope and used for what you envision in the future.
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011, 5:40 PM
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Interesting, I hate my edelweiss rope. It's a little over a year old and it's more like an edelwire. The hand is just awful. I would never purchase another edelweiss.
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jt512
Nov 20, 2011, 7:59 PM
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ZeroContent wrote: mikebee wrote: The main suggestion by Beal is that a skinnier rope will be harder to belay with, thus a more experienced belayer will have better control of the relatively skinny rope. I'd suggest that in addition to that factor, a slightly thinner rope is less durable, and would require better care (keeping it away from sharp edges etc). Generally noticing things like sharp edges becomes more instinctive as you climb more. I wouldn't stress too much about it though. What are you wanting to use the rope for? Well that clears that up then. Since we've climbed on other peoples 9.4 ropes before without incident we should be fine there.
At least you'll be as "fine" using the Beal Booster as you were using your other skinnier ropes; that is to say, whatever risks you've been unwittingly taking by using a skinny rope shouldn't increase just by switching brands. Of course, even this is not true, since the brand actually does matter.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 20, 2011, 8:01 PM)
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