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eric_k
Nov 30, 2011, 12:29 PM
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I need to get myself a set of ropes for ice climbing. My question is what type of system should I use? I know the difference between rope systems has been beat to death before but please bear with me.
All I have ever used for ice are my partners twin ropes, but reading over previous threads most people seem to agree that doubles have many advantages over twins. My first question is, should I get doubles over twins even though I have never used doubles before? What is the learning curve?
Second question, I currently have two ropes, one 60m 10.2 (nearly worn out), and one 70m 9.4 (nearly new). Would it be a good idea to just buy a single twin rope to use as a tag line with my existing ropes? Thanks for your opinions.
Eric
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uni_jim
Nov 30, 2011, 1:29 PM
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My preferece on ice is half ropes; they aren't too difficult to use at all. Rope management is a life skill, get good at it and yer set for life!
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Guran
Nov 30, 2011, 2:28 PM
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^^^Ditto
It makes perfect sense. You wield sharp tools around your precious rope so you'll want redundancy.
You also have protection of uncertain quality so you'll want to minimize peak force on your pro, should you fall on lead (which you shouldn't).
Double ropes gives you both.
Rope handling can be a bit tricky at first (esp since you'll be wearing gloves) but you'll get used to it.
Make sure to use a belay device with guide mode when bringing up a second on doubles. It really helps. (assuming your belay is bomber, that is)
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jeepnphreak
Nov 30, 2011, 4:57 PM
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I would say that it depends.
If you are leading mostly than half ropes or twin ropes are my choice. I like twins but its personal pref.
If you are setting up a top rope and running laps I perfer 1 fat single rope.
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dr_feelgood
Nov 30, 2011, 6:30 PM
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Guran wrote: ^^^Ditto It makes perfect sense. You wield sharp tools around your precious rope so you'll want redundancy. You also have protection of uncertain quality so you'll want to minimize peak force on your pro, should you fall on lead (which you shouldn't). Double ropes gives you both. Rope handling can be a bit tricky at first (esp since you'll be wearing gloves) but you'll get used to it. Make sure to use a belay device with guide mode when bringing up a second on doubles. It really helps. (assuming your belay is bomber, that is)
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eric_k
Dec 1, 2011, 5:21 PM
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Well it sounds like doubles really will work best. The next question I have is, do you have a favorite set of double ropes? I have owned mammut, PMI, and most recently petzl, so I have not brand loyalty. To me it seems like the rope with the lowest impact force would be the best, tell me what you think.
Thanks,
Eric
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eric_k
Dec 1, 2011, 5:26 PM
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Last question, what length do you like? Is 60m just right and 70m too long or vice versa?
Eric
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tolman_paul
Dec 1, 2011, 6:06 PM
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Unless you're doing lots of really long easier ice routes, I doubt you'll find yourself wanting to carry and place enough screws for full 60m pitches, let alone 70m pitches. It's not like sport climbing where you're falling and abrading the end of the rope and having a 70m that you can trim to 60m. 60's should be more than enough.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 2, 2011, 6:29 PM
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eric_k wrote: Well it sounds like doubles really will work best. The next question I have is, do you have a favorite set of double ropes? I have owned mammut, PMI, and most recently petzl, so I have not brand loyalty. To me it seems like the rope with the lowest impact force would be the best, tell me what you think. Thanks, Eric
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rangerrob
Dec 2, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Getting a good dry treated rope is pretty key for ice climbing. An untreated rope can turn into a useless cable in bad conditions. If you're able, dedicate your ice ropes to ice climbing only. You will get a lot more seasons out of them that way.
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swaghole
Dec 8, 2011, 5:16 PM
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eric_k wrote: Last question, what length do you like? Is 60m just right and 70m too long or vice versa? Eric
I prefer 70m (for single) so when my partner puts his axe through my rope, I will end up with a 67m rope and a case of beer.
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Colinhoglund
Dec 8, 2011, 10:53 PM
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I use mammut 60m, 8.5mm halfs for ice multipitch and alpine. And a mammut 9.5mm 70m for everything else. (sport, Trad and Ice cragging ie. Halfner creek)
Half ropes are nice for full length rappels, allow 2 seconds (safely compared to twins) and allow easier rope management for the leader, I barely use runners on Ice, just wire draws. My 2¢
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