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edge
Feb 15, 2012, 6:04 PM
Post #51 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: The new meaning of Classic seems to be the route that the most people have done or heard of, so that when you spray about it more people will know how rad you are.
Well, the definition of "spray" is to scatter a large amount of a substance over a wide area from a highly pressurized container.*
*checks clipboard....
Yep.
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camhead
Feb 15, 2012, 6:07 PM
Post #52 of 89
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Dip wrote: camhead wrote: j_ung wrote: johnwesely wrote: Dip wrote: Satisfaction Guaranteed NRG. Pretty much my favorite sport climb ever. Love it. I forgot about that one. Those credit card edges on the slab are probably the coolest holds in the world. 'Cept for those brainy runnels on the headwall. That whole climb is top notch from move 1. I've climbed a lot of classics, especially in the South East. I have to say that I think the hands-down worst of them is the Original Route on Whitesides. What a piece of shit. Oh! Oh! If we're talking about the NRG, the route that definitely gets the "most overhyped not really a classic" award is definitely Discombobulated. For the amount of attention that route gets in photos, it really is not that fun. that's the one beside Legacy right? I think that's a big reason why it sees so much traffic, as i believe Legacy is advertised as "among the best 5.11 sport climbs in the gorge."
Yeah, just to the left of Legacy. Legacy is actually really good. But Discomboluated gets all the photos.
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j_ung
Feb 15, 2012, 7:47 PM
Post #53 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: The new meaning of Classic seems to be the route that the most people have done or heard of, so that when you spray about it more people will know how rad you are. I think I'd rather do something that isn't polished to a high shine, and where I don't have parties above or below me, or waiting in line behind me.
That's a new definition? I thought that's what it was all along. "Classic," as I understood it, has nothing to do with quality, but rather with traffic. Same as a classic rock song.
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cracklover
Feb 15, 2012, 8:47 PM
Post #54 of 89
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j_ung wrote: caughtinside wrote: The new meaning of Classic seems to be the route that the most people have done or heard of, so that when you spray about it more people will know how rad you are. I think I'd rather do something that isn't polished to a high shine, and where I don't have parties above or below me, or waiting in line behind me. That's a new definition? I thought that's what it was all along. "Classic," as I understood it, has nothing to do with quality, but rather with traffic. Same as a classic rock song.
Ah, that explains why Dear Mr Fantasy is a classic... Traffic! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vReD2zryQmA
G
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caughtinside
Feb 15, 2012, 9:35 PM
Post #55 of 89
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j_ung wrote: caughtinside wrote: The new meaning of Classic seems to be the route that the most people have done or heard of, so that when you spray about it more people will know how rad you are. I think I'd rather do something that isn't polished to a high shine, and where I don't have parties above or below me, or waiting in line behind me. That's a new definition? I thought that's what it was all along. "Classic," as I understood it, has nothing to do with quality, but rather with traffic. Same as a classic rock song.
ha ha! Maybe not so new? I think at some point it might have meant Rock Climb of a Certain Quality?
Classic now means high spray factor but low actual adventure or unique experience factor.
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deschamps1000
Feb 15, 2012, 11:11 PM
Post #56 of 89
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Dip wrote: Best Supercrack New River Gorge version. Probably not as hyped as its desert cousin but it sure oughtta be.
Really!? A 25 foot hand crack versus a 100+ foot hand crack? Have you seen the IC version? Supercrack from the NRG would be largely ignored at the creek.
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deschamps1000
Feb 15, 2012, 11:16 PM
Post #57 of 89
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GREAT CLASSICS
The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall, RR
Fine Jade
Astroman
NOT SO GREAT CLASSICS
I don't really have anything for this list. I tend to be psyched on pretty much everything that I climb.
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curt
Feb 16, 2012, 12:01 AM
Post #58 of 89
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Well, one of the worst "classics" that comes to mind is "Illusion Dweller" in Joshua Tree. I'm sure others will disagree, but I can think of many better 5.10 routes at JT, in spite of this one always being held out as a "must do" classic.
Curt
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jt512
Feb 16, 2012, 12:04 AM
Post #59 of 89
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camhead wrote: Bastille Crack is not nearly as classic as it thinks it is.
They think it's the "best 5.7 in the world." It isn't even a good 5.7. Every 5.7 I've ever done in California has been better than that route.
Jay
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snoopy138
Feb 16, 2012, 12:05 AM
Post #60 of 89
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curt wrote: Well, one of the worst "classics" that comes to mind is "Illusion Dweller" in Joshua Tree. I'm sure others will disagree, but I can think of many better 5.10 routes at JT, in spite of this one always being held out as a "must do" classic. Curt
I actually agree. It's still a good route for josh (partly in light of there being so many bad ones), but there are so many better routes at or near the grade.
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snoopy138
Feb 16, 2012, 12:07 AM
Post #61 of 89
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jt512 wrote: camhead wrote: Bastille Crack is not nearly as classic as it thinks it is. They think it's the "best 5.7 in the world." It isn't even a good 5.7. Every 5.7 I've ever done in California has been better than that route. Jay
try exploring jtree a bit. you'll find worse.
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jt512
Feb 16, 2012, 12:08 AM
Post #62 of 89
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snoopy138 wrote: jt512 wrote: camhead wrote: Bastille Crack is not nearly as classic as it thinks it is. They think it's the "best 5.7 in the world." It isn't even a good 5.7. Every 5.7 I've ever done in California has been better than that route. Jay try exploring jtree a bit. you'll find worse.
I was mostly thinking of J Tree.
Jay
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curt
Feb 16, 2012, 12:11 AM
Post #63 of 89
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jt512 wrote: camhead wrote: Bastille Crack is not nearly as classic as it thinks it is. They think it's the "best 5.7 in the world." It isn't even a good 5.7. Every 5.7 I've ever done in California has been better than that route. Jay
Bastille Crack is good with the Northcutt start. 
Curt
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johnwesely
Feb 16, 2012, 12:13 AM
Post #64 of 89
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atg200 wrote: ] Gelsa would be perfect. If you can handle a bit of wide crack, Yellow Ridge is my favorite 5.7 or under route in the Gunks.
Gelsa definitely falls under "worst classics" for me. The cool pitch was dirty, loose, and not really that fun. The first pitch of Shockleys is similar but way better.
Yellow ridge, on the other hand, is really great.
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curt
Feb 16, 2012, 12:17 AM
Post #65 of 89
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johnwesely wrote: atg200 wrote: Gelsa would be perfect. If you can handle a bit of wide crack, Yellow Ridge is my favorite 5.7 or under route in the Gunks. Gelsa definitely falls under "worst classics" for me. The cool pitch was dirty, loose, and not really that fun. The first pitch of Shockleys is similar but way better. Yellow ridge, on the other hand, is really great.
I'll give another vote for Yellow Ridge. Once you get the wide stuff out of the way (right off the bat) the rest of the route is great.
Curt
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jakedatc
Feb 16, 2012, 12:32 AM
Post #66 of 89
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johnwesely wrote: atg200 wrote: ] Gelsa would be perfect. If you can handle a bit of wide crack, Yellow Ridge is my favorite 5.7 or under route in the Gunks. Gelsa definitely falls under "worst classics" for me. The cool pitch was dirty, loose, and not really that fun. The first pitch of Shockleys is similar but way better. Yellow ridge, on the other hand, is really great.
loose on the traverse? don't remember that. Angry and I thought the rest of it was really fun for an easy route.
perhaps you are just too tall for the gunks and skip all the interesting moves ;)
Apparently I need to get on Yellow Ridge. on the list it goes.
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camhead
Feb 16, 2012, 2:54 PM
Post #67 of 89
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deschamps1000 wrote: Dip wrote: Best Supercrack New River Gorge version. Probably not as hyped as its desert cousin but it sure oughtta be. Really!? A 25 foot hand crack versus a 100+ foot hand crack? Have you seen the IC version? Supercrack from the NRG would be largely ignored at the creek.
Supercrack of the NRG is way more than a 25 foot handcrack. It's a 90-100 foot hands corner. Perhaps you are thinking of New Yosemite, which is a 25 foot thin hands splitter at the NRG?
I do agree that Supercrack of IC is infinitely better than either of those routes though. The most overhyped route at IC is without a doubt Incredible Hand Crack.
And, since I have not yet contributed a list of climbs that live up to their classic status, here are some that live up to the hype.
Primrose Dihedrals. Diverse climbing every pitch, and an incredible summit.
Sendero Luminoso. About the only multipitch in Potrero that is not a chosspile.
Nutcracker. No desription needed, but it's an awesome climb.
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deschamps1000
Feb 16, 2012, 3:10 PM
Post #68 of 89
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Woops, you are right. Got confused about my NRG climbs. Though I gotta say I love Incredible Hand Crack. Perfect hands forever including a roof? I could climb that thing over and over.
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Dip
Feb 16, 2012, 3:33 PM
Post #69 of 89
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deschamps1000 wrote: Woops, you are right. Got confused about my NRG climbs. Though I gotta say I love Incredible Hand Crack. Perfect hands forever including a roof? I could climb that thing over and over.
And i will admit that i have never laid eyes on Supercrack of the Desert in person, but i really wasn't attempting to compare the two. In my opinion, supercrack at the new is rad, no matter how much more rad (radder?) it's western cousin may be
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drivel
Feb 16, 2012, 4:42 PM
Post #70 of 89
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jakedatc wrote: snoopy138 wrote: jakedatc wrote: SoEO techy slab bottom.. solid protected finger crack middle.. hero jug finish.. i dunno what isn't to like if you liked Bonnies P2 traverse you should do Directissima. not quite as exposed since it isn't as high but an engaging traverse to some. Bloody bush P2 also if .9 isn't your speed. i liked fuzzy.. not like ZOMG but after the bottom boulder problem it's basically a giant jug fest. also still need to RP it since .7 slab isn't really a great warm up for the crimpy bottom  jake, fuzzy is the warmup. I know i know.. it was like 40F freaking cold (i also had chips and my fingers were greasy) trust me the fail does not sit well.
you could have, you know, done the standard for rping at the red.... lower off, wait 20 min, and fire it? or just "boulder" the bottom.... climb it off rope till you get to the first bolt, and then bother with a belayer so you can finish it out.
though i agree fuzzy is overrated as a "classic."
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drivel
Feb 16, 2012, 4:44 PM
Post #71 of 89
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njrox wrote: I noticed a lot of Gunks climbs listed on this thread. I'm taking a trip to The Gunks in a couple of weeks. Doing some easy leads and looking to finish the day on something awesome. Any recommendations? Two pitches, great pictures, 5.4 - 5.6 ???
i found onsite soloing Beginners Delight (5.3) to be one of the best climbs of my life.
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drivel
Feb 16, 2012, 4:46 PM
Post #72 of 89
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drivel
Feb 16, 2012, 4:53 PM
Post #73 of 89
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camhead
Feb 16, 2012, 4:54 PM
Post #74 of 89
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drivel wrote: njrox wrote: I noticed a lot of Gunks climbs listed on this thread. I'm taking a trip to The Gunks in a couple of weeks. Doing some easy leads and looking to finish the day on something awesome. Any recommendations? Two pitches, great pictures, 5.4 - 5.6 ??? i found onsite soloing Beginners Delight (5.3) to be one of the best climbs of my life.
Get mah raincoat! You must hang out with some serious spraylords to talk like that.
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