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blueeyedclimber
Feb 17, 2012, 3:54 PM
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So...this April will be ten years climbing for me. I started when I was 30 which means now I am 40. Aside from being 10 years older, I feel great. I weigh the same I did when I was 30 but I'm stronger. Maybe I have a few less hairs and maybe a couple have turned grey, but I look pretty much the same.
Over the past decade, I've climbed a lot, but I still feel there is so much that I haven't done yet. I haven't done a first ascent (unless you count that one toprope on a friend's property). I haven't climbed El Cap (or have done any big wall for that matter). I am still not a very good crack climber. I haven't climbed in Europe. I haven't dirtbagged it in Yosemite. or Moab. or El Portrero. or ANYWHERE. I am a weekend warrior with the exception of the one or two climbing trips I take each year. I have so much left to do and I figure this next decade is the last one of improvement and climbing strong before I start to decline (I hope I'm wrong about this).
Now, so you don't think I am just feeling sorry for myself, here are some of my accomplishments that I am especially proud of.
1. Have led over 40 5.10's at the Gunks.
2. Have climbed in 3 different countries.
3. Have climbed in some of the major destinations in North America, including Yosemite, Squamish, Joshua Tree, and the Gunks.
4. Have led 5.11 in multiple styles including slab, finger crack, dihedral, roof, and face climbing.
5. Have onsighted up to 5.12a
That's not bad, but I feel like I haven't done anything yet. I do have plans to climb the Nose soon, but I need a lot more knowledge than I have now. I want to sleep on a wall. I want to climb 5.12 trad. I want to spend a week or more at Indian Creek. I want to road trip for an entire summer.
The older I get, the less responsibility I want. I just want to climb. Is that selfish?
Josh
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potreroed
Feb 17, 2012, 4:08 PM
Post #2 of 34
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Barring a catastrophic accident you should have a good 30 years of climbing left in you so you should be able to reach all of your goals.
One of them will be particularly easy: just hop on a plane and come to the Potrero Chico where you'll be able to climb thousands of glorious feet every day with a single rope and a dozen draws.
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johnwesely
Feb 17, 2012, 4:20 PM
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Have you done Yellow Wall yet?
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notapplicable
Feb 17, 2012, 4:36 PM
Post #4 of 34
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The crags will continue getting more crowded but other than that, the next 10 years will be exactly what you make of them.
Train hard, climb hard and enjoy every minute of it!
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yodadave
Feb 17, 2012, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
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Go check out Stevie Hastons blog if you want some inspiration for improving well into your 50's.
Or just plan on your 50's for FAs.
As for just wanting to climb and is that selfish, well thats perfectly normal and selfish in my opinion. But then again climbers are some of the most generous people i have in my life so I don't know.
great topic though, it makes me look at my 13 years and wonder.
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bearbreeder
Feb 17, 2012, 5:36 PM
Post #6 of 34
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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climbing with yung hawt gurls increases yr send power by at least a letter grade ... its a proven fact 
thats the secret 
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 17, 2012, 7:36 PM
Post #7 of 34
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johnwesely wrote: Have you done Yellow Wall yet?
This year. My plan was to redpoint Carbs and Caffeine and then start working Yellow Wall. I sent C & C in the fall rather easily but then never got back to the Gunks.
Josh
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caughtinside
Feb 17, 2012, 7:54 PM
Post #8 of 34
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Aren't you a teacher? That should make a summer road trip easy. Plus a spring break should make Indian Creek possible.
As for me, I think it's been 11 years now? No specific goals, just to keep trying harder routes and visit new (to me) crags. Maybe get my 1000 Josh routes at some point. I"m at 400 now and it's getting harder to find quality new stuff to do, that I'm able to do. I might have to walk more than 10 minutes from the road.
I'd like to check out some the Wyoming limestone and climb that Turkish limestone. OH yeah, and the New. I would really like to see and climb at the New.
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cracklover
Feb 17, 2012, 7:59 PM
Post #9 of 34
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We're in much the same boat, my friend, give or take. I think the solution is that we need to climb more together.
Cheers,
GO
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edge
Feb 17, 2012, 8:18 PM
Post #10 of 34
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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I started climbing at age 15, so I now have 35 years of experience. My college years and early twenties were full of great adventures due to being single and obsessed, so I got in a couple routes on the Captain then, climbed most all of the faces in Yosemite (except for Sentinel) by one or more routes, bagged some big peaks outside Chamonix, plus numerous trips to Colorado and Wyoming.
I ice climbed extensively throughout New England back in the day, hitting all the prize jewels from Cannon, Cathedral, Willoughby, and Katahdin. I lost interest in ice about the time the M craze started, and haven't been motivated to go that route; they just don't appeal to me. Personally, I find pure ice routes boring now as well, at least here in New England.
As soon as I sell my current house, my wife and I will be moving to the Front Range of Colorado, a long time dream of mine. I love Eldo, RMNP, Lumpy, and have an extensive tick list for when I get out there.
At age 50, I just had my best season on the rock in the past 20 years, mostly because I trained hard through the winter at the local rock gym and renewed motivation. I managed to get out to some local areas that are being recently re-discovered (places where I did a bunch of FAs back in the late 70's) and managed to grab 7 FAs this past year in the process, all trad lines from 5.7 FA free solos to 10.b gear routes.
So, in the next 10 years, I hope to start picking off more ticks from my Colorado, Utah, and Wyoming rock list, get on some alpine routes in the Rockies, and have fun. I do not see my current age as any sort of deterrent, as I climb much smarter now than in my youth; technique and experience definitely trump youthfulness and brute strength. I also have a higher appreciation for all types and grades of climbs, and am truly grateful each time I get out that I am a climber first and foremost.
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cclarke
Feb 17, 2012, 9:27 PM
Post #12 of 34
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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Hi Josh-
You don't really mention what responsibilities you have that might compete with climbing, like a family or work.
Physically, if you start strong at 40, there's probably no reason you can't remain strong at 50, barring accident or illness. I'm 48 this year and climb about as good as ever, notwithstanding a few bad habits.
One advantage of getting old is you can get better at applying your skills to a wider range of challenges because of experience and maybe you'll have more resources available to make the big trips happen.
It sounds like you have all the skills you need to accomplish every one of your goals. Being older might give you more patience to help you plan how to make them happen.
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camhead
Feb 17, 2012, 9:59 PM
Post #13 of 34
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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caughtinside wrote: Aren't you a teacher? That should make a summer road trip easy. Plus a spring break should make Indian Creek possible. As for me, I think it's been 11 years now? No specific goals, just to keep trying harder routes and visit new (to me) crags. Maybe get my 1000 Josh routes at some point. I"m at 400 now and it's getting harder to find quality new stuff to do, that I'm able to do. I might have to walk more than 10 minutes from the road. I'd like to check out some the Wyoming limestone and climb that Turkish limestone. OH yeah, and the New. I would really like to see and climb at the New.
Well, get yo ass out here, then!
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camhead
Feb 17, 2012, 10:06 PM
Post #14 of 34
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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I've been climbing for 13 years now, and am the way to considering myself an old fart. I have plenty of specific routes that I'd love to do before I put my climbing gear back in the closet behind my dignity, but my broad goals for the rest of my climbing life are simple: keep improving, and move somewhere that has quality rock within an hour's drive.
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moose_droppings
Feb 18, 2012, 12:59 AM
Post #15 of 34
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
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blueeyedclimber wrote: So...this April will be ten years climbing for me. I started when I was 30 which means now I am 40. Aside from being 10 years older, I feel great. I weigh the same I did when I was 30 but I'm stronger. Maybe I have a few less hairs and maybe a couple have turned grey, but I look pretty much the same. Over the past decade, I've climbed a lot, but I still feel there is so much that I haven't done yet. I haven't done a first ascent (unless you count that one toprope on a friend's property). I haven't climbed El Cap (or have done any big wall for that matter). I am still not a very good crack climber. I haven't climbed in Europe. I haven't dirtbagged it in Yosemite. or Moab. or El Portrero. or ANYWHERE. I am a weekend warrior with the exception of the one or two climbing trips I take each year. I have so much left to do and I figure this next decade is the last one of improvement and climbing strong before I start to decline (I hope I'm wrong about this). Now, so you don't think I am just feeling sorry for myself, here are some of my accomplishments that I am especially proud of. 1. Have led over 40 5.10's at the Gunks. 2. Have climbed in 3 different countries. 3. Have climbed in some of the major destinations in North America, including Yosemite, Squamish, Joshua Tree, and the Gunks. 4. Have led 5.11 in multiple styles including slab, finger crack, dihedral, roof, and face climbing. 5. Have onsighted up to 5.12a That's not bad, but I feel like I haven't done anything yet. I do have plans to climb the Nose soon, but I need a lot more knowledge than I have now. I want to sleep on a wall. I want to climb 5.12 trad. I want to spend a week or more at Indian Creek. I want to road trip for an entire summer. The older I get, the less responsibility I want. I just want to climb. Is that selfish? Josh
Ditch the little woman, that will free up a lot of time.
(she doesn't read any of this stuff does she?)
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Bag11s
Feb 18, 2012, 1:34 AM
Post #16 of 34
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Registered: May 8, 2009
Posts: 98
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Started climbing at age 33 in 1988- 23 years ago, and will be 57 this summer. I’m also pretty much a (New England) weekender with misc. intermittent short climbing trips to various destinations further afield. I’ve climbed at approx. the same level for fifteen years. I’ve had ridiculous fun doing this. At the moment I’m 3 months into my new two-year gym bouldering scheme @ 3-4 days per week. I’m learning all the time from the younger, stronger climbers at the gym. I know I’m getting stronger hands and overall fitness, gaining better movement skills, learning better dynamic technique, and accessing my internal animal attack confidence with the plastic fantastic approach. My goal is to get into competent 5.13 sport fitness, and to maintain it for the next few years.
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stevecurtis
Feb 18, 2012, 2:58 AM
Post #17 of 34
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Registered: Mar 9, 2007
Posts: 41
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I'm at 34 yrs climbing, 54 years old . Although there is always a new place to visit, I've climbed all over the world and states. Goals? None really. I'd like to do the nose in a day again before I die. I'd like to keep climbing Astroman for another 20 years. I really want to do another left side Whitesides route. Another few weeks at the Elb might be courting problems. I wish I'd arise limber. And I wish I didn't need to hide my hands when I work.
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shockabuku
Feb 18, 2012, 4:26 AM
Post #18 of 34
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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blueeyedclimber wrote: The older I get, the less responsibility I want. I just want to climb. Is that selfish? Josh
Maybe, but so what? Whose life are you living?
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guangzhou
Feb 18, 2012, 9:39 AM
Post #19 of 34
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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stevecurtis wrote: I'm at 34 yrs climbing, 54 years old . Although there is always a new place to visit, I've climbed all over the world and states. Goals? None really. I'd like to do the nose in a day again before I die. I'd like to keep climbing Astroman for another 20 years. I really want to do another left side Whitesides route. Another few weeks at the Elb might be courting problems. I wish I'd arise limber. And I wish I didn't need to hide my hands when I work.
You're a dentist, no-one sees your hands.
Eman
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 18, 2012, 2:35 PM
Post #20 of 34
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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caughtinside wrote: Aren't you a teacher? That should make a summer road trip easy. Plus a spring break should make Indian Creek possible.
I'm also a parent. She is getting older but not quite at the age where I can leave her home. And she has no interest in a climbing trip.
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 18, 2012, 2:38 PM
Post #21 of 34
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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cracklover wrote: We're in much the same boat, my friend, give or take. I think the solution is that we need to climb more together. Cheers, GO
I agree. It doesn't look like we are going out west this Spring, though, since we are planning on Thailand at the end of the school year. We still have to do Levitation and the Nose.
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 18, 2012, 2:42 PM
Post #22 of 34
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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moose_droppings wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: So...this April will be ten years climbing for me. I started when I was 30 which means now I am 40. Aside from being 10 years older, I feel great. I weigh the same I did when I was 30 but I'm stronger. Maybe I have a few less hairs and maybe a couple have turned grey, but I look pretty much the same. Over the past decade, I've climbed a lot, but I still feel there is so much that I haven't done yet. I haven't done a first ascent (unless you count that one toprope on a friend's property). I haven't climbed El Cap (or have done any big wall for that matter). I am still not a very good crack climber. I haven't climbed in Europe. I haven't dirtbagged it in Yosemite. or Moab. or El Portrero. or ANYWHERE. I am a weekend warrior with the exception of the one or two climbing trips I take each year. I have so much left to do and I figure this next decade is the last one of improvement and climbing strong before I start to decline (I hope I'm wrong about this). Now, so you don't think I am just feeling sorry for myself, here are some of my accomplishments that I am especially proud of. 1. Have led over 40 5.10's at the Gunks. 2. Have climbed in 3 different countries. 3. Have climbed in some of the major destinations in North America, including Yosemite, Squamish, Joshua Tree, and the Gunks. 4. Have led 5.11 in multiple styles including slab, finger crack, dihedral, roof, and face climbing. 5. Have onsighted up to 5.12a That's not bad, but I feel like I haven't done anything yet. I do have plans to climb the Nose soon, but I need a lot more knowledge than I have now. I want to sleep on a wall. I want to climb 5.12 trad. I want to spend a week or more at Indian Creek. I want to road trip for an entire summer. The older I get, the less responsibility I want. I just want to climb. Is that selfish? Josh Ditch the little woman, that will free up a lot of time. (she doesn't read any of this stuff does she?)
Not only does she read it, but she'll moderate your ass if you're not careful
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 18, 2012, 3:31 PM
Post #23 of 34
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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cclarke wrote: Hi Josh- You don't really mention what responsibilities you have that might compete with climbing, like a family or work.
I'm a teacher, so for the most part I have summers off, a two week break in December and a two week break in March. I do work at a summer climbing camp but I pretty much tell them when and how much I can work. For the past few years I have taken a trip in March. Not yet in December. And we always take a trip in the summer.
I also have a daughter from a previous marriage who will be 16 this July. I am the primary parent responsible for her. When she was younger she would just go to her mom's when we took a trip. Now that she is older, she has a social life that doesn't involve her parents. When she is with us, we can take off for the day which we couldn't do when she was younger, but she's not old enough yet to be left for a weekend. She graduates High School in a couple years and I intend on doing nothing but climb. 
Josh
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caughtinside
Feb 18, 2012, 3:40 PM
Post #24 of 34
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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blueeyedclimber wrote: caughtinside wrote: Aren't you a teacher? That should make a summer road trip easy. Plus a spring break should make Indian Creek possible. I'm also a parent. She is getting older but not quite at the age where I can leave her home. And she has no interest in a climbing trip. Josh
Good thing she loves summer camp then eh? Eh?
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Gmburns2000
Feb 18, 2012, 9:49 PM
Post #25 of 34
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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moose_droppings wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: So...this April will be ten years climbing for me. I started when I was 30 which means now I am 40. Aside from being 10 years older, I feel great. I weigh the same I did when I was 30 but I'm stronger. Maybe I have a few less hairs and maybe a couple have turned grey, but I look pretty much the same. Over the past decade, I've climbed a lot, but I still feel there is so much that I haven't done yet. I haven't done a first ascent (unless you count that one toprope on a friend's property). I haven't climbed El Cap (or have done any big wall for that matter). I am still not a very good crack climber. I haven't climbed in Europe. I haven't dirtbagged it in Yosemite. or Moab. or El Portrero. or ANYWHERE. I am a weekend warrior with the exception of the one or two climbing trips I take each year. I have so much left to do and I figure this next decade is the last one of improvement and climbing strong before I start to decline (I hope I'm wrong about this). Now, so you don't think I am just feeling sorry for myself, here are some of my accomplishments that I am especially proud of. 1. Have led over 40 5.10's at the Gunks. 2. Have climbed in 3 different countries. 3. Have climbed in some of the major destinations in North America, including Yosemite, Squamish, Joshua Tree, and the Gunks. 4. Have led 5.11 in multiple styles including slab, finger crack, dihedral, roof, and face climbing. 5. Have onsighted up to 5.12a That's not bad, but I feel like I haven't done anything yet. I do have plans to climb the Nose soon, but I need a lot more knowledge than I have now. I want to sleep on a wall. I want to climb 5.12 trad. I want to spend a week or more at Indian Creek. I want to road trip for an entire summer. The older I get, the less responsibility I want. I just want to climb. Is that selfish? Josh Ditch the little woman, that will free up a lot of time. (she doesn't read any of this stuff does she?)
waiting for the cape to swoop down and ban your ass! 
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