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flesh
Feb 24, 2012, 6:53 PM
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I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150.
Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12.
Here's their weight/height
6,3 165
5,7 140
510 140
5,9 130
I am
5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month)
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shockabuku
Feb 24, 2012, 6:57 PM
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flesh wrote: I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150. Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12. Here's their weight/height 6,3 165 5,7 140 510 140 5,9 130 I am 5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month)
I did a quick survey about it last year some time. It appears that the answer was yes.
Losing weight sucks. I guess that's why we called it "sucking weight" when I was a wrestler.
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shockabuku
Feb 24, 2012, 7:00 PM
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I'm not an 8a.nu reader (GASP!) so I don't recall how you get points, but isn't it by some number of hardest sends or something like that?
I think a better plot would be BMI vs. hardest single send or hardest onsight send.
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flesh
Feb 24, 2012, 8:14 PM
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shockabuku wrote: I'm not an 8a.nu reader (GASP!) so I don't recall how you get points, but isn't it by some number of hardest sends or something like that? I think a better plot would be BMI vs. hardest single send or hardest onsight send.
If I recall correctly, harder grades of course are given more points and your total points are based on a certain number of your hardest sends over the last year. Onsights are given more points and I think resends are given a bit less.
Somebody who has 11k+ points would have sent multiple v12-v13 maybe even v14 and 15's over the course of the last year. So the sampling is based on very good climbers. Alot of my friends are in the 10-11k area and they have dozens of v10 and some v11's and v12's over the last year.
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jbro_135
Feb 25, 2012, 11:09 PM
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We are exactly the same height and weight, haha. Good to know I can climb V12 without losing weight...
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jakedatc
Feb 26, 2012, 3:37 AM
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shockabuku wrote: flesh wrote: I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150. Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12. Here's their weight/height 6,3 165 5,7 140 510 140 5,9 130 I am 5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month) I did a quick survey about it last year some time. It appears that the answer was yes. Losing weight sucks. I guess that's why we called it "sucking weight" when I was a wrestler.
Except that in wrestling you drop weight to wrestle in a weight class that is lighter than you are. then drink water and eat to get back up to as close to your actual weight as possible before your match.
Since dropping water weight just makes you weaker it doesn't really apply to climbing since there are no weight classes.
you have to look more at power to weight ratio.
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surfstar
Feb 27, 2012, 5:52 AM
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In reply to: -0,28, so its not a huge correlation.
NO SHIT! That's called 'not any correlation'.
Damn I guess I don't have any scientific excuse with my BMI of over 25 for not sending.
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flesh
Feb 28, 2012, 8:32 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: We are exactly the same height and weight, haha. Good to know I can climb V12 without losing weight...
hah, ya honestly, I think i only have about 2-3 lbs to go and I'll be at the limit. Then again, I said that at 156.
Makes me wonder if my body is shrinking over time over the last year. I lost 20 lbs in about 4 months.... maybe then all my muscles started to get slightly smaller because it wasn't needed... then I lost some more... and so forth. I'm down to 151 and it seems like I have a few more to go. It's an interesting process. FYI, eat around 1500 cals on non climbing days and 2k on climbing days... the weight just keeps slowly coming off over time.
It's really nice though, crimps don't hurt like they did before and I can climb hard for what seems like hours many times.
Maybe 148 is in the cards. I simply see no reason not to keep going so long as my performance is improving and I feel great.
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cracklover
Feb 28, 2012, 9:27 PM
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Paging JT512. JT512, please pick up the nearest white courtesy phone.
GO
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jt512
Feb 28, 2012, 11:57 PM
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cracklover wrote: Paging JT512. JT512, please pick up the nearest white courtesy phone. GO
It's an intriguing little dataset. The table in the attachment to the OP shows a clear negative trend between BMI (or weight) and number of points. Even ignoring the highest-scoring category, which contains only two climbers, there is a 15-lb (6.7 kg) difference in average weight between the next-highest point category and the lowest. So, on average, the lighter the climber, the higher his point score. However, the modest correlation coefficient (–.28) suggests that BMI is only a minor determinant of the point score.
Of course, random error in the reporting of three variables—height, weight, and climbing score—will contribute to attenuation of the correlation coefficient. And since these data are self-reported, they likely contain considerable random error; hence, the actual correlation coefficient may be greater in magnitude.
Jay
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So I have done this very low level scientifical studie.docx
